If you don't mind modifying the furnace controller, I'd try running the
power to it through a quality line filter (not conditioner and not just
surge suppresser) and locating the DC power supply on the controller and
piggybacking a larger filter cap. By keeping out line noise and
providing better ripple control on the DC power you might be able to
convince it that the generator is ok.
Actually, that can work quite well. The cap needs to be in the 1,000 uFd
range or higher and, of course rated for the voltage to be put across it,
AND installed with proper polarity.
I did it for my nephew, but ... I wouldn't do it for anyone else except
under dire circumstances because as soon as you touch the box, you've
nullified any warranty that might still exist, plus taken responsibility for
any real or perceived damage to the controller<g>.
Fortunately my old Wayne doesn't care.
Millions of BIG UPS are tossed every year because the batteries are
so find a used surplus LARGE UPS, plug in generator and try it in
advance of next outage.
cheap solution you really dont nreed the battery just the conditioning
Who said anything about a UPS or separating power? I didn't say that. I
said to run all the power through a quality filter block (~$20 surplus)
and to add an additional filter cap to the controllers DC supply. The
filter keeping out spikes and hash and the extra cap reducing ripple
should make the controller happier with generator power. Void the
controller warranty of course.
You could always try and disconnect the transformer primary leads from
the board and hook them up to the UPS and see if that makes any
difference. I am pretty sure that the electronics on the board are
powered from the 24 volts, so geting proper power there may solve the
problem. The inducer, HSI, and blower motor should not be as picky, as
long as the power is anywhere near what it should be. I got curious and
hooked up 24 volts to a board sitting on the bench with nothing else
hooked up. After a couple of seconds it made two clicks and the status
indicator gave 4 blinks. I think the clicks were the blower and inducer
relays powering because the board saw an open limit-- Goodman board and
I think that is what 4 blinks means on those. Other boards may be
different, but it would be easy enough to try it first before going any
further. Just my $.02. Larry
Thank goodness somebody came up with this.... I just suffered through
the whole thread and began thinking the same thing about half-way through.
I'm one of those guys who does high voltage maintenance as well as
controls for a living, and I can tell you that as long as the 24v is
clean... then you're good. It wouldn't take much of a filter.
Grounding is also an important issue with any system... particularly one
involving an inverter. Most generators have them for voltage regulation
Grounding at the generator is NOT recommended if you use a transfer
switch that only breaks hot legs and not the neutral. If your transfer
switch also breaks neutral (rare for homeowners) a generator ground is
REQUIRED by the NEC. In ANY circumstance you must carry the grounding
conductor from the generator to the service panel. If you don't, serious
hazards exist everywhere the electricity reaches.
One more thing... those that have said they 'backfeed' their main panel
without the use of approved transfer switch are being stupid and could
be held criminally liable if I or one of my employees gets hurt due to
your generator feeding HV lines elsewhere. People have gone to jail for
it... and if I find someone doing it while doing utility work I'll cut
your line, pull your fuses and see that you get the power turned back on
sometime in the next century. Buy a damn transfer switch!
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