Furnace Install questions

Been doing some research and could use the help of the experts on a couple of things. I had 5 HVAC companies come to my house for estimates on replacing my 50 year old 90,000 btu furnace for my 1500 sq. ft. ranch in N.W. OH. The estimates where similar in terms of cost for most, so I am going with the installer that I trust the most and received good feedback on from references ( BTW - none of the installers did a manual J calc, most where just concerned with how to get the exhaust out). My questions for the group are these. 1) Do I go with a Trane or Armstrong, both are the 90 plus percent efficient, but the Trane cost an extra $425. What does an extra 425 get me? 2) The contractor I am going with recommended a flue liner for $210 for the hot water heater exhaust. Is that necessary/recommended, would it be better to skip the liner and route the water heater exhaust throught the same PVC that is being run out the roof for the furnace ( the furnace and water heater are next to one another) 3) Is it ok to run the PVC exhaust through an unheated garage to the roof. It will be hugging the wall, but do I need to insulate the pipe? 4) One installer recommended replacing the coil, while this guy said to wait. Why would I replace the coil, is it recommended? 5) As far as sizing, all the contractors quoted something different. The guy I trust the most said 60,000 btu but I had others that recommended 90,000. What are the implications of undersizing/ oversizing. Is a manual J calc absolutely necessary or is a trained eye who is familiar with the neighborhood construction able to tell from experience. Any feedback is appreciated.
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Either tell the contractors your dealing with that if they want the job, they *WILL* do the load/loss calcs and provide you with a print out of the results, or get one that will.

A lot better quality of equipment

Check with your local building inspector

Check with your local building inspector

Do it all one time so you don't have to pay for installation twice

Without doing the calcs, they are just guessing.... do you want to base that kind of an investment on a guess??

Each has its own problems.... have the calcs done to correctly size the furnace and A/C for your home and climate.

The *ONLY* rule of thumb is that most folks have 2 of them. Unless the contractor does the math, he is only guessing.

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Load calculation is required!!! (otherwise, show them to the front door)

Yes
No, it's not up to code or SAFE!!!

Yes and No, in that order, but why are you running it into the garage first? (or is this a garage install)

Maybe, depends on the installation and age of the condensor.

Trust the guy that does the load calculation. Everything else is a WAG.
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On Oct 17, 11:42 am, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

You would probably have to replace your hot water heater in order to exhaust it via pvc.
It's probably ok to run the pvc along a garage wall. How about out the side instead of through the roof?
Coil should match the ac unit so leave it alone until you replace the ac.
The effects of oversizing heat is not as detrimental as oversizing ac to a point. Grossly oversized would create comfort problems. Undersized simply may not provide enough heat on very cold days.
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On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 10:53:46 -0700, jamesgangnc

Probably (again)?

Oversizing heat is NOT as detrimental? You're a freakin retard jamesgangnc! Your would and should shittin guesses need to be shoved up your ass. Go play in alt.guess Bubba
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wrote:

You must be the contractor wanting to install the 90K unit
Why don't you learn something before you spew more of your inaccurate shit?
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posted for all of us...

Evidently is wasn't done here you nimrod. All of these questions have been asked and answered before.
Therefore my advice is go cheap - as cheap as you can - so you will have money to fix it when the hack is done.

--
Tekkie Don\'t bother to thank me, I do this as a public service.

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Been doing some research and could use the help of the experts on a couple of things. I had 5 HVAC companies come to my house for estimates on replacing my 50 year old 90,000 btu furnace for my 1500 sq. ft. ranch in N.W. OH. The estimates where similar in terms of cost for most, so I am going with the installer that I trust the most and received good feedback on from references ( BTW - none of the installers did a manual J calc, most where just concerned with how to get the exhaust out). My questions for the group are these. 1) Do I go with a Trane or Armstrong, both are the 90 plus percent efficient, but the Trane cost an extra $425. What does an extra 425 get me?
CY: The Trane give you obscure parts which are expensive to replace. And often only available through Trane dealers. You can expect to pay more for service, and have fewer companies who can provide service.
2) The contractor I am going with recommended a flue liner for $210 for the hot water heater exhaust. Is that necessary/recommended, would it be better to skip the liner and route the water heater exhaust throught the same PVC that is being run out the roof for the furnace ( the furnace and water heater are next to one another)
CY: I'd go with the flue liner. Please don't share a chimney if possible.
3) Is it ok to run the PVC exhaust through an unheated garage to the roof. It will be hugging the wall, but do I need to insulate the pipe?
CY: By the time the 90+ gasses are sent out, they are pretty cool. I'd suggest to run the pipe horizontal, and go out a side wall if at all possible. Pumping cold air uphill isn't very effective.
4) One installer recommended replacing the coil, while this guy said to wait. Why would I replace the coil, is it recommended?
CY: new coil less likely to leak freon. Also more energy efficient. If you can afford the coil, please do.
5) As far as sizing, all the contractors quoted something different. The guy I trust the most said 60,000 btu but I had others that recommended 90,000. What are the implications of undersizing/ oversizing. Is a manual J calc absolutely necessary or is a trained eye who is familiar with the neighborhood construction able to tell from experience.
CY: Oversized furnace won't run as often, you'll get temperature swings. Under sized, and your house will be cold during the coldest days of winter. You might need a space heater or a couple burners on the stove to help keep the house warm. I'd go with the smaller furnace.
Any feedback is appreciated.
CY: I tend to give more credence to people who speak politely, using polite terms. I have less confidence in people who curse and swear.
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in message

Bullshit, I don't sell Trane and I have absolutely no problem getting Trane OEM factory parts. Once again, maybe you should get a clue.

Only 'if possible', how's about 'it's not fucking right to do it'?

Since when is the exhaust gases 'cold'???

This isn't always the case, but you wouldn't be able to understand the facts if I posted them.

You're a clueless fucking retard. Any day you want to challenge my knowledge against your stupidity, just let me know. I'll make a fortune of the video. Movie title "Stumped Stupid goes Hacking... saved by The Professor"
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in message

Will_you_PLEASE!.....
http://www.hvacbooks.com /
Well there you go,,, you've just busted your own myth.
-zero
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