Braze or solder copper refrigerant lines to fittings

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"leak issues". I've got enough trouble without trying to mix metaphors. Save the psychiatric jargon for when it's really needed.
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Christopher A. Young
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What part of having various issues with leaks do you not understand?
Stormin Mormon wrote:

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When you speak, vaguely, using buzz words. You use up air time, or in this case bandwidth. But you really don't say anything useful. Try being specific, and maybe you will use your time effectively.
To answer your question: All of your vague writing is not understood.
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You can't understand anything.... period!
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wrote:

defense is what keeps him from running out inna street when he comes out from under the porch.
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wrote:

I believe the "leak issues" he speaks of are the ones occurring with increasing frequency due to an enlarged prostate. ERS
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That explains the vague phrasing.
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Christopher A. Young
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Stay Brite is wonderful for brand new copper, from the parts house. Flows at a lot lower temperature than stick braze. The Stay Brite goes from solid to liquid almost instantly, and runs out of voids. When fittings are very closely fitted, then it works well, by capillary action.
Stick braze will work much better than old copper. Stick braze requires a heck of a lot hotter temps, but the fill seems a bit better than Stay Brite.
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cz11123_at_gmail_dot snipped-for-privacy@foo.com (cz111) wrote in

ALWAYS clean your parts as well as possible. Contamination can prevent proper adhesion (wetting, bonding, et al). Flux (phosphorous in phos-copper filler) can "absorb" contamination but there is a limit. Too much contamination will "consume" the flux and you will get a poor joint. How much contamination is "too much"? Usually, the amount that remains when you decide to take a shortcut and don't clean really well.
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