If I leave the thermostat Fan to Auto, once the A/C brings down the temperature down to the set temperature, the fan immediately stops. Is there any type of thermostat that can keep the fan running for a few more minutes?
Mine works great in winter when the heater warms the air *up* to the set temperature (the fan continues to run a little while). But it doesn't do the reverse (when the A/C brings *down* the temperature). Thanks.
What you are describing sounds like the role of a heat anticipator. Anticip= ators or digital delays when set properly avoid over shooting or undershoot= ing your heating/cooling set point(where you set your thermostat). Older a= nalog therostats have a slider inside the cover that sets the run time - lo= nger or shorter. Digitals may have a "CPH" or cycles per hour menu item. = This is set based on the size of your system or delivery type(boiler + hot = water or fan + forced air). Check your manual for correct setting or calib= ration.
Thank you. My thermostat is Hunter 44110:
I have not seen a thermostat do what you want, but not likely a cheap one.
Greg
The controls you seek are not cheap... and are not available in the big box stores.... but they do exist. FWIW, hunter makes great ceiling fans, but their thermostats are junk.
However, you really don't need or want to use this feature in A/C mode. The object of A/C is to *condition* the air... as in humidity control. the moisture that is removed from the air by the evaporator coil does go down the drain... to a point. The coil is still wet, and there is still water in the pan..... running the fan for any length of time after the compressor shuts down will put that moisture back into the air and undo what the A/C is trying to accomplish.
Think about it like this.... most folks are perfectly comfortable at 85F with 15% humidity, but 85F with 90% humidity is a whole different story. Ideally, you want to be able to maintain 75 - 76F at 50% humidity inside. There is an added bonus at that particular temp/RH level in that molds and viruses will not grow. As I said... its all about humidity control.
As the saying goes, "better to be warm and dry than cool and wet".
I am fried that you are describing "Anticipator wrong. What anticipator supposedly should be doing it anticipate just what word is saying it prevents overshoot or undershoot depend in what direction you are supposedly going. In other word if change is moving to fast in either direction, it supposedly suppose to hold back, only if change of conditions are moving or changing to fast. Some companies may call anticipator Rate, it is usually incorporated in PID controllers, some companies also provide European and American settings. "Delays" are altogether different animal.
On May 14, 11:15=A0pm, "Steve" wrote: ...
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Thanks Steve. I didn't know that. My intent is to avoid moisture in the duct, because I thought turning off the fan at the same time the compressor stops would leave moisture in the duct. If that's not true, then never mind.
It puts a certain amount of moisture out, but not continuously. But leaving it run for a few more minutes is a problem. On mine, manual runs the fan on low, until the compressor comes back on, then switches back to high. A window air conditioner does not care, fan runs.
Greg
Mine has a jumper on the controller board. It's not a thermostat function.
Anticipators or digital delays when set properly avoid over shooting or undershooting your heating/cooling set point(where you set your thermostat). Older analog therostats have a slider inside the cover that sets the run time - longer or shorter. Digitals may have a "CPH" or cycles per hour menu item. This is set based on the size of your system or delivery type(boiler + hot water or fan + forced air). Check your manual for correct setting or calibration.
Why not just set the fan delay on the furnace? If it is not available on your equipment... You can always add a delay relay for either on or off or both.
We're basically using different words to describe the same function. Your description sounds almost like mine! :)
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Not on my 1988 model 8k BTU GE window shaker with spine fin condenser and plastic base pan. When it is on energy saver mode the compressor and fan cycle together.
I have a cheap Lux digital thermostat controlling it with a relay in series with its built-in thermostat.
I do find it stupid that on the new digital control window units even when on energy saver mode the fan only goes to low or maybe shuts off after 5 minutes when the comp shuts off, these don't dehumidify worth a damn on mild days.
A friend has a new GE 8K unit, on energy saver the fan has that 5 minute delay, after which it is only ~30 seconds before the comp and fan turn back on.
I found from a Pro1iaq thermostat manual
I emailed them for a little more clarification. The "keep running" part of the engineer's reply, which is what I'm interested in, is as follows:
"The same delay at the end of the call for cooling provides what is known as 'free cooling' because the condensing unit is no longer running but the evaporator is still cool and the fan can distribute the remaining cool air through the home, also helping to prevent moisture remaining in the duct during the off-cycle. The air and coil are still relatively cool during this short time, preventing excess moisture from being reintroduced into the air."
That's what I suspect: "preventing excess moisture from being reintroduced into the air", not the opposite.
It's more important that the ducts are still cool when the compressor shuts off, but evaporator does contribute.
Greg
Change it from AUTO to ON and set to your desired temperature.
Yes for heat but not for cooling because that would bring Humidity up!!!
Change it from AUTO to ON and set to your desired temperature.
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