AIR INLET PROBLEM WITH A NEW HOT WATER HEATER WITH SEALED COMBUSTION UNIT

On my natural gas hot water heater, the flame is insufficient to produce enough heat to reach needed temperature? I've got a one year old Rheem water heater. Apparently, there is a problem involving the amount of air that is entering the sealed combustion chamber. There is sufficient natural gas pressure. No problems with the thermostat, that has been replaced TWICE. The entire burner assembly has been replaced and the system is venting properly. Yet the flame, an orange one, never gets as hot as it should. Since it is a sealed combustion chamber, there is no way to adjust the intake of air. The inlets are not blocked, clogged, or otherwise. The heater is in an open basement, with two feet of open space surrounding it. Two customer service reps at Rheem say that the combustion shutoff device is likely tripped, and if that's the case, the only way to remedy the problem is to replace the unit because the tripped device can not be replaced or repaired. The manager of the technical department says that if the device were tripped, there would be no flame at all. What else could be wrong?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Rheem USED to be a good water heater.
If you end up replacing it... Bradford White.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Your water heater is a POS! That is correct. If your combustion shut-off closes it CANNOT be repaired. You will get NO flame. NOT even a pilot. In my opinion the worst combustion device ever thought up is on your POS Rheem! Make noise and lots of it and get rid of it. Ive used AO Smith and Bradford-White. Either have done well. Bubba
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

AO Smith is ok too. I just like the Bradford White better, as you can replace the sensor without replacing the whole pilot assembly.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
If the thermal release device TRD, detectes high heat it pops, closing the combustion air baffle. There is no way you could even get the burner to fire. You may get the pilot to light for 10 seconds or so. You DON'T have to replace the tank. You can hire a professional to replace the thermal release device, and reset the shutoff spring.
From what you are saying, your glass has not popped. I would check your manifold pressure. Then I would clock the gas meter. Make sure it matches the water heater input. It possible the wrong burner orifice has been installed. Rheem has made this mistake before. Is the gas piping new? Possible obstructions inside the gas pipe.
Look for condensation, water that might be leaking from the tank when it is working. The moisture could be filling the air vents inside the FVIR tank. Is there a leak? Or condensation from over usage? Is there an arrestor shield installed above the arrestor plate? Your description is vague.
The tank should heat completely in less then 1 hour. What is stopping the burner? Did they check the dip tube? Is there an anti scalding valve installed? Put your hand on the relief valve, is is hotter then the hot pipe leaving the ASV? If you close the water inlet valve to the water heater and open a hot tap in the house, is there water?
GSW makes the best water heaters in my opinion. I work on rheem, gsw, ao smith, bradford white, rannai, general electric, giant and polaris. Giant makes the worst. The new Rheem PV tank's have major pressure switch problems. They're on the 3rd revision now.
Anyway, that's FVIR-101
HAHA
-Canadian Heat
-- --------------------------------- --- -- - Posted with NewsLeecher v3.8 Final Web @ http://www.newsleecher.com/?usenet ------------------- ----- ---- -- -
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 16 Apr 2007 21:32:28 GMT, DANgER (danger< snipped-for-privacy@heat.com) wrote:

DANgER. You are one stupid retarded asshole. If the thermal device pops, the damper slams shut. You cannot lite even the pilot after this happens. You also CANNOT get a professional to replace the thermal device. It is not made. The tank gets thrown away and you start over. Call Rheem and find out for yourself. I cant stand when idiots like you give out false advice. You are an idiot.

Only thing thats popped is the vessel in your head.

Thats because you have no idea what you are doing. Stop now while your NOT ahead.

Yeah, thats it DANger. The diptube is keeping the pilot from lighting. You damn brain dead ding bat.

You wouldnt know a water heater if it smashed you in the head and scalded your balls.

The worst company around.
Bubba
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
LOL bubbs, I have forgotten more then you'll ever know.
I like your advice..."you need a new tank" ahhaha I guess you gotta do what you gotta do to support that white trash family of yours.
HAHA
-Canadian Heat
-- --------------------------------- --- -- - Posted with NewsLeecher v3.8 Final Web @ http://www.newsleecher.com/?usenet ------------------- ----- ---- -- -
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 17 Apr 2007 21:04:23 GMT, DANgER (danger< snipped-for-privacy@heat.com) wrote:

More like, You've just plain forgotten. Bubba
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

what you gotta do to support that white trash family

More like, he didn't understand it after the teacher explained it to him for the thousandths time. LOL
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
LOL bugga's foaming again! I love it. :) (:
Who said he was having pilot problems bubba???
"The manager of the technical department says that if the device were tripped, there would be no flame at all."
He said he was having temperature problems.
"Yet the flame, an orange one, never gets as hot as it should."
I can get the thermal release device, shaft and spring from my wholesaler. I also have written approval from the manufacturer to replace them if need be.
Like I said bubba, he could get a PROFESSIONAL to do that ;)
I also said, the TRD was not the problem.
"From what you are saying, your glass has not popped. I would check your manifold pressure. Then I would clock the gas meter. Make sure it matches the water heater input. It possible the wrong burner orifice has been installed. Rheem has made this mistake before."
Don't you ever get tired of the embarrassment bugga?
HAHA
-Canadian Heat
-- --------------------------------- --- -- - Posted with NewsLeecher v3.8 Final Web @ http://www.newsleecher.com/?usenet ------------------- ----- ---- -- -
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 17 Apr 2007 22:14:54 GMT, DANgER (danger< snipped-for-privacy@heat.com) wrote:

Exactly.

Orange is dirt, bone head. Yellow is different

I call bullshit bigboy. Post the written approval.

I guess that leaves you out.

You also say a lot of things that no one listens too because you are a know hack. You prove it with every post.

Yeah I do. Watching you get your dick stepped on with each and every post you make is quite and embarrassment to you.

You could only dream to be me. Until then, you'll always be a putz. Bubba
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"DANgER" <"danger"@heat.com wrote in message

combustion
may get the

You can hire

shutoff spring.

manifold
water heater

made this

gas pipe.

is working.

there a leak? Or

the arrestor

burner? Did

your hand on

close the

there water?

smith,
the worst.

the 3rd

Hey--stupid fuck....
This whole bit was covered quite a while ago...but obviously seems you totally missed it--now to you to research just whom it was had posted it in the first place...
But if you wish to take the personal responsiblity of resetting for your self the fusable alloy that resides within the Rheem safety the that shuts down the fucking supply on overtemp then I guess go for it...beings as the probable end result is there being possibly several less count of ignorant fucking cannooks going around and posting bad info on the internet.
Now, just to make sure that I had at least mentioned "stupid fuck" at least one time within this particular post...
--






Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Yes stupid fuck is a great description of you and you furnace cleaner gang.
I said he could call a professional. Not do it himself.
Fuck, are you all midly retarted here?
HAHA
-Canadian Heat
-- --------------------------------- --- -- - Posted with NewsLeecher v3.8 Final Web @ http://www.newsleecher.com/?usenet ------------------- ----- ---- -- -
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"DANgER" <"danger"@heat.com wrote in message

gang.
"midly"
Your starting to slip again. LOL
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 18 Apr 2007 21:41:55 GMT, DANgER (danger< snipped-for-privacy@heat.com) wrote:

hmmm, I still dont see that letter you claim to have from Rheem saying you are authorized to do repairs on the supply air shut off damper in their water heaters. Oh, lemme guess. Your scanner's broke? Dumb shit and a liar. Your list just keeps growing. Bubba
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/hvac/AIR-INLET-PROBLEM-WITH-A-NEW-HOT-WATER-HEATER-WITH-SEALED-CO-16424-.htm Sammy Slipsheet wrote:
thomas wrote:

Of course, the sensor may be defective. Pay extra on your life insurance, bypass the sensor, and see if that helps. I mean, carbon monoxide is colorless and odorless. You don't mind, do you?
------------------------------------- Complete idiots like me spam the Usenet with inane questions and moronic advice to posts from years gone by. That's me! Sammy Slipsheet
,-~~-.___. / | ' \ ( ) 0 \_/-, ,----' ==== // / \-'~; /~~~(O) / __/~| / | =( _____| (_________|
I use a low flush toilet, too! Save the planet! Use leaves!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 14 Dec 2010 23:11:06 +0000, SSlipsheet_at_Rochester_dot_rr_dot snipped-for-privacy@foo.com (Sammy Slipsheet) wrote:

    Cool. A 'Safety' device that A ) no one can tell if it's tripped or not, and B ) it can't be replaced or repaired.
    Apparently it's not a part inside the unit, placed there by a human being or a robot in the factory, held in place with some combination of screws, glue, or whatever. It's invisible, un-measurable, and if you actually look at it it changes, like some kind of quantum phenomina.
    It looks like you bought the -MB ( Magic Bean ) model. Better throw it out and buy another one.
    Want some land in Florida while you're at it ?

--
Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
www.theanimalrescuesite.com/
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/hvac/AIR-INLET-PROBLEM-WITH-A-NEW-HOT-WATER-HEATER-WITH-SEALED-CO-16424-.htm Sammy Slipsheet wrote:
thomas wrote:

Of course, the sensor may be defective. Pay extra on your life insurance, bypass the sensor, and see if that helps. I mean, carbon monoxide is colorless and odorless. You don't mind, do you?
------------------------------------- Complete idiots like me spam the Usenet with inane questions and moronic advice to posts from years gone by. That's me! Sammy Slipsheet
,-~~-.___. / | ' \ ( ) 0 \_/-, ,----' ==== // / \-'~; /~~~(O) / __/~| / | =( _____| (_________|
I use a low flush toilet, too! Save the planet! Use leaves!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/hvac/AIR-INLET-PROBLEM-WITH-A-NEW-HOT-WATER-HEATER-WITH-SEALED-CO-16424-.htm Sammy Slipsheet wrote:
thomas wrote:

Of course, the sensor may be defective. Pay extra on your life insurance, bypass the sensor, and see if that helps. I mean, carbon monoxide is colorless and odorless. You don't mind, do you?
------------------------------------- Complete idiots like me spam the Usenet with inane questions and moronic advice to posts from years gone by. That's me! Sammy Slipsheet
,-~~-.___. / | ' \ ( ) 0 \_/-, ,----' ==== // / \-'~; /~~~(O) / __/~| / | =( _____| (_________|
I use a low flush toilet, too! Save the planet! Use leaves!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
replying to thomas, Reasonable wrote: If there are no tight turns and the vent pipe has the right pitch and draft pressure. Check for negative pressure, is anything else running that could reduce draft. Check the rate of the air coming back to the water heater, in worst case , your house could be in the worst case. You must look at other things and not the water heater. Let me know. reasonablehci @gmail. com.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.