A question about gas/liquid valves

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I'm an electrical engineer and saw this show on PBS about how easy it was to install a mini split ductless AC system.
I figured I could do it, and did it. Installed and working like a champ, but the Chinglish instructions say to open the liquid and gas refrigeration valves and don't say how far to open them. 90 degrees to purge the lines (R410a), but nothing more after that.
My unit is a Klimaire 1800 BTU and the valves are brass with a cap, under that is the valve stem which is a metric hex key.
The question: Are these double seat valves? Are there two seals - one that is compressed when the valve is closed and another when it is turned fully CCW (open) to seal off leakage past the valve stem?
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On Fri, 17 Jun 2011 10:54:25 -0400, default wrote:

    First off, I call 'bullshit' on you being an EE.
    No EE living or dead ever admitted not knowing something :-)
    However - open the valves WAO.
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On Fri, 17 Jun 2011 11:01:45 -0400, .p.jm.@see_my_sig_for_address.com wrote:

Dude, that is ambiguous.
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Jump to: navigation, search
Wao may refer to:
* Wao, Lanao del Sur * The Wao language, a.k.a. Huaorani language * Wet Air Oxidation (a wastewater treatment technology) * Wacken Open Air, also known as W:O:A
EE from the days of vacuum toobs and retired today.
Just wound a current transformer for the AC so I can tell when the compressor is running - lights an LED when the compressor is on.
Took a split bobbin 110/220 transformer, cut the 12 volt secondary off with a hacksaw, wound 10 turns of #13 AWG magnet wire (only draws 7.9 amps @ 220 max) wired that to a FBI cap and blinking LED.
Today I plan to design a blinking circuit which will flash proportionately faster as current increases. ( I get 1.1 volts to ~8 volts out of the CT with 1,000K ohms load)
You were saying?
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<default> wrote in message > wrote:

Wide Assed Open
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wrote:

Thanks.
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On Fri, 17 Jun 2011 11:23:23 -0400, default wrote:

    Another option - 'What Anthony Weiner said when he saw pictures of himself stroking off on national TV' :-)
    Pick whichever you prefer :-). Or 'Wide Ass Open'.

    You are a very strange person with too much time on his hands :-)
    BTW, watch your LRA.
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On Fri, 17 Jun 2011 12:33:15 -0400, .p.jm.@see_my_sig_for_address.com wrote:

Too true most days.
But it is wonderful too.
Never had the time to build a Tesla coil until I was retired and building bird houses. The raw bird houses looked like induction coil boxes (being somewhat more ambitious than a TC). I figured that if I applied some of the self-reliance spirit to the TC problem I could do it. Sure, but that was easier than I expected.
At work no one (among the chemists) understood how hard, what they were asking for, was to do, so I did it to keep my job (and because my ego is the size of Mt. Rushmore and it was an engineering problem - that is to say, solvable with a modicum of thought).
I went from Tesla coils to winding an induction coil with 13 miles of wire in it (all in neat little layers on bobbins I made with insulating paper between layers) +/- 300 feet. Took a week to wind and a month to build. Adapted from a book published in 1900.
From there it was an interest in resonance, from reading Nicola Tesla's works, and experiments, and somehow I got off on building organ pipes - to combine resonance, science, music and wood working.
My only problem in life is time to do what I want to try.
Now I'm interested in Programmable Integrated Controllers and trying to make a chime (two octaves and electro mechanical strikers already designed) to play a few bars of "Pictures at an Exhibition."
Retirement agrees with me.
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On Fri, 17 Jun 2011 13:37:57 -0400, default wrote:

    Tesla got you beat all hollow in the 'weird' department :-)
    But I worry some that seeing little birdies nesting makes you want to build a device that generates large high-voltage sparks .... Have you ever heard of a more modern device called a 'barbeque' ?

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On Fri, 17 Jun 2011 12:33:15 -0400, .p.jm.@see_my_sig_for_address.com wrote:

Louisiana Recovery Authority Lord's Resistance Army Literacy Research Association
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<default> wrote in message > wrote:

Locked Rotor Amps, what a motor draws while stalled IE the rotor/armature isn't turning. The LRA spike as the comp starts could fry your LED over time. I would limit the max voltage with a big zener diode.
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On Fri, 17 Jun 2011 14:02:14 -0500, "Daniel who wants to know"

Oh.. got it.
I see a spike of >`100 volts on the current transformer
The compressor is a DC, variable frequency, three phase drive. The input caps charge the moment power is applied, so for a millisecond or two I see a high voltage on the current transformer, after that .... it's pretty much long cyclical up and down until the compressor stops entirely.
Then... it seems to wait for the ambient to climb to 2 degrees F to turn on again. Damn Europeans - 2 degrees is a lot, this is a Celsius device reading in Fahrenheit. Set points are 2 degrees F apart.
In industry we would only say "VFD (drive)" - they were all single phase or 3 phase input to charge the DC capacitor bank to output 3 phase to the motors.
Locked rotor? That's old DC motors isn't it? Procter and Gamble in 1980, used those, up to 200 hp. Control panels were filled with op amps and took for days to get them all calibrated.
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On Fri, 17 Jun 2011 13:58:57 -0400, default wrote:

    Locked Rotor Amperage.
    ~ 5x RLA ( Running Load Amps )
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On 6/17/2011 12:58 PM, default wrote:

Lousy rotten Alcohol
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    Ain't no such thang.
    Except the non-drinkable kind.
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On 6/17/2011 8:53 PM, .p.jm.@see_my_sig_for_address.com wrote:

Ats wot I mean. They put that red dye shit in it here.

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On 6/17/2011 10:23 AM, default wrote:

Should have used an accelerometer. Even a locked or semi-shorted compressor pulls current.

Wow.. Have you invented low fuel warning lights yet? ;-p

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On 6/17/2011 10:23 AM, default wrote:

I buy the parts off the shelf to do the same thing cheaper than I can build it myself but your way is defiantly more fun though it takes longer. If you're doing a project for a customer, you don't have to design and build all the basic functions, just put the building blocks together. I adore these guys for their ready made versatile solutions:
http://www.functionaldevices.com /
TDD
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default wrote:

Hi, I installed one years ago at my rental condo downtown. After all is done, I had to call a friend who is a HVAC tech. for final check. He made sure there is no leak, charge state was proper(he topped it up) Been running well since. It is LG brand.
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wrote:

That was my first choice too. Unfortunately the guy I used to work with (HVAC/ industrial controls) is either moved or retired, none of his phone numbers work. I trusted him...
I called a local contractor and got a big sales pitch on Trane and how "these cheap Chinese AC's are worthless," and figured he wasn't the guy to help set it up.
Contractor number two was pretty much the same story. He wanted to charge the lines with nitrogen then come back three days later to check for leak down... and said he didn't have the gauges for 410a and if it leaked I'd have to buy him gauges.
I did take super care with my flare joints. They supply 15' and I needed ~9. First 10 practice flares with the leftover tubing and I had one that I would trust with my life (amateur MC mechanic/racer) and one that would probably work. Harbor Freight tools.... Went to the Auto Zone and got a proper flare tool and turned out 3 out of 3 and figured I was ready for the big time.
I live in North Carolina - I'd like to use a pro I could trust, but watched some idiot pro auto mechanic take a hammer to my buddies BMW cam shaft, some pro electricians confuse neutral and hot, and my own computer under "in home" warranty (1992) with the pro plug in a connector backwards (a "keyed" connector - hard to do). Those experiences and being a sailor (you depend on yourself because that's all you got most days)....
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<default> wrote in message > wrote:

I take that as a sailer, you were either a deck ape, or an ops weenie.... neither of which is qualified on moving parts.
Sounds like the boneheads you talked to on the phone were the lowest priced service call folks you could find, you also bought the cheapest mini-split you could find. Its policy for my company that we will not install or do start-up on any equipment that was not purchased through us strictly due to warranty and liability issues.
FWIW, Mini-splits are charged at the factory for using a 30ft lineset. Without pulling a proper vacuum on it before you cut the refrigerant loose in the system, you now have the following....
1) Air, moisture, and non-condensible gasses in the system 2) The system is overcharged because you cut the lineset down 3) The moisture you left in the system will interact with the POE oil and cause it to become acidic, and eat the insulation off the compressor windings.
By the way... did I mention that you warranty is null and void??
Have a nice life cheapskate.
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