I'm looking at programmable thermostats for my heat pump -- Goodman GSH14030 compressor and ARUF3030 air handler with a 10kW heat kit. I want to determine how many stages of heating and cooling I have so I went to the Goodman web site and searched the spec sheets for the word "stage" but it was not listed this way.
Can someone please tell me if this is a single stage system or multi-stage? For two stage systems do both the compressor and air handler need to be two stage or is this determined by only one of these components?
If the system isnt working correctly, there is a 99.999% chance that its
*NOT* a problem with the thermostat. Your local *COMPETENT*, licensed, insured, professionally trained, HVAC technician will know what your system needs, and should have one on the truck. FWIW, I understand that the big box stores will no longer take thermostats back, unless you exchange it for the exact same one you bought in the first place....even if its the wrong one.
Your system is a 14 SEER 2.5 Ton Heat Pump. You will need a single stage cool, 2 stage heating thermostat. The second stage for heat is the strip heaters. Look in the instructions that came with the indoor unit. It will show you how to connect your new thermostat to your system. Good luck.
And if you find a problem call your local HVAC repair people. They'll help you, but there will be a fee tied to the help. We have bills to pay too.
Thank you. Is the reason you know that the compressor is a single stage because it only has one BTU rating?
The old thermostat has a single O/B contact whereas the one I'm considering buying (White Rogers 1F95-1277) has both an O and a B. Currently the orange wire goes to O/B - the changeover relay. If I purchase the 1F95-1277, how should I wire O and B?
*most* of the time when folks comfort systems are not working properly, they automaticaly think its the thermostat that is the problem, without realizing thats like saying my car is broke, if I get a new key for it, it will run again. Or that it needs some more of that "freezone" stuff. Never mind that the system is over 10 years old and has never been serviced since the day it was installed. Yes its real obvious to a *competent* Technician when the system was hacked in by the lowest bidder, that its never been serviced, lots of candles have been burnt over the years, lots of fried food, smokers, etc.
Save yourself time and money and have a competent HVAC tech install a YTH9421C1002. As it's obvious that you don't know which one to use, which leads to you NOT knowing how to hook it up properly. Then there's the programming issue.
"And if you find a problem call your local HVAC repair people. They'll help you, but there will be a fee tied to the help. We have bills to pay too."
You and "noon-air" seem to make a lot of unjustified assumptions. Perhaps you and he are usually right but I have to wonder. It looks to me like you're trying to prove that do-it-yourselfers are stealing your livelyhood and I happen to be a convenient target for your unhappiness.
For your information, over the past two years I paid a qualified installer about $7k to install two new heat pump systems in my house. A week ago when the WR 1F82-261 thermostat he installed died, I re-installed the old mercury switch thermostat. As I mentioned, the system is working now. I enjoy doing small repairs that are within my capabilities and am completely confident that I can install and program a new electronic thermostat.
I am still hopeful that someone in this group will confirm my expectation that I need to jumper the B and O terminals for a thermostat where they are separate terminals.
Unfortunately, I know nothing that will allow me to assist in answering your questions, but I will tell you of experiences I had here about a month ago:
I posted some questions relating to an insulation job we were considering, and, in return, got responses that fell into two distinct categories:
Some folks were extremely generous with their time and knowledge.
Others hurled insults, and, as far as I could make out, became angry at me apparently through some twisted logic relating to the kindness of the folks in that first group.
Eventually, the generosity won out because some of that group, tiring of the nonsense, simply took the discussion off line and wrote to me privately. I remain deeply appreciative of that assistance.
Interestingly, based in part on the good counsel I have described, we decided on a particular approach, hired a firm to do the work, and are now about $12000 into the modification we needed.
I do hope that you get your questions answered, and, were I in your shoes, I'd check my email regularly.
All my systems have a minimum 5 yr parts warranty... So in that case, I'd call the contractor back and have them install a new stat. While they're there, have them clean and inspect the system!
Yet you're here asking questions on the subject YOU "think" is within your capabilities... that's just to funny!
Hook the orange wire to the O terminal and nothing to the B terminal. The difference between the 2 is when they are energized. The O is energized in cool which is the most units are wire (including yours) and the B is energized in heat which is the way Rheem, Ruud, and Weather King units are wired. Make sure you kill the power to the indoor unit because if you touch the wrong 2 wires together by accident you'll pop the low voltage fuse. As far as programming, just read the manual not to hard on White Rodgers T-stats. Good Luck!!! Rodney
$7,000 for 2 systems is really cheap unless you provided the equipment. If the installer provided the equipment and t-stats, the stats are still under warranty. Call the installer back to make it good under warranty, unless he is out of business because he didn't charge enough.
What did the directions to the thermostat say?? What do the books for the air handler and heat pump say?? You need to know if the RV is energize in heat or energize in cool. I know what it is, and will leave you to your homework to figure it out.
I thought the same thing & didn't want to say anything but since you mentioned it the Air Handler he's got isn't a true match with his condenser. ARUF3030 only matches with the Goodman 13 SEER condenser. The only way to get 14 SEER is with an ARUF1931 & field install a TXV which together cost about an extra $175.00. That means the cost should have been $7,175.00
One question at a time. - I know is single stage because it is. A 16 SEER Goodman is 2 stage, the 14 SEER model is single. The O/B terminal for the reversing valve on the thermostat you have can be / is programmed through a menu. The 'cheaper' white rogers thermostat, is not. It is likely your Goodman is default to Heat, so the reversing valve is active during the call for cooling, hence 'O' terminal use.
Why don't you just hire a trained professional? If your not sure, it would be better to hire one now, instead of having them repair failed controls later.
You don't even know me. For such an idiot my answer is correct. Don't most heatpumps have strips as auxillary? Unless it's a dual fuel or water furnace that's the way they all work except for maybe ground source. Did you read that last statement before you posted it. It makes no sense and I'm the idiot.
The compressor has four stages, and the fan has six.
------------------------------------- Complete idiots like me spam the Usenet with inane questions and moronic advice to posts from years gone by. That's me! Sammy Slipsheet
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