I have a small reader ad, in a couple phone books. Havn't
found that the display ads do much difference.
No, not registered with ALOHA, never saw much point.
So far, most of my lock work has been referral companies.
I'm not sure how they get the calls, but it's essentially
all stores in malls. So, that gets the old brain box
working. Like Steve says, simple post cards with a lot of
white space. I'll try that one of these days.
Both sound convenient. I've toyed with the idea of mickey
mousing up a cantap for 134a, so I can carry a duplicate set
of tools in my other Pinto. Sometimes I have to come back
home for the Van Pinto. Most of the time, it's just cleaning
condensors and electrical repairs.
I have a couple of the 134 screw on adapters because
everybody's after me to fix car AC systems all the
time. A guy I do a lot of HVAC work with wanted me to
help him with his daughter's Honda AC. The dealer
quoted $4,000.00, we repaired it for substantially
less money. I had never worked on a Honda AC before
and had to look it up on The Web to see how it was
put together. The defective expansion valve was behind
the glove box so we had to remove half the dash to get
to it. A new expansion valve was $13.00, a receiver
was less than $30.00, some oil and 134a was another
$30.00. I think we beat the dealer price. It took an
afternoon but it was worth it to do it right.
Every year there is a Mitchell manual on the exact A/C for every
vehicle. Most libraries have it and it is perusable on the library
internet. I recommend A local wireless connect lap top with a car
computer hookup that can query the cars computer as to status of
computer etc. Such a connection to the car is about $100 at:
Also local wireless is about $19.00 for the laptop.
Also the very best way to load a car AC is by weighing it in. You may
find that very hard to do with 12 oz cans.
Ouch, four grand is a pile of money. Making your labor rate
some couple hundred bucks an hour. Well worth it. I havn't
had much request for topping off car AC. The AC on my van
pinto doesn't work. I keep thinking some day I'll try and
figure out why. Friends have suggested a bad pressure
sensor, either high limit or low cut out.
Not talking about a "subcooler", talking about *subcooling* where your
looking for the Delta T between LLP converted to temperature, and actual LLT
coming from the condenser. Normally for A/C and heat pumps, the Delta T
should be between 10 - 14F to insure a solid column of liquid refrigerant to
The only time we change gas, is if the unit had R-12, and
then we use 416a. The older units are designed for R-12, and
the newer units come with R-134 in them. Not doing any
Never worked on a two stage cooler.
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