Top cut on dogwood.

Tar and commercial pruning paints containing tar should never be used. They cause die-back.

I find that white glue (Emler's, Will-Hold, etc) is an excellent seal for pruning cuts. The cuts seem to heal more quickly if sealed, especially heading cuts.

When I prune my peach, I reseal old cuts where the wood has dried and cracked, to keep water out of the cracks. This prevents rot.

When I prune my roses, any heading cut on a twig thicker than a soda straw is sealed. Otherwise, stem borers (solitary wasps making nests) will enter the cut and drill down 2-3 inches, weakening the branch.

Reply to
David Ross
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That should have been pretty obvious. The original post roughly translated to, "I'm going to do something unconventional, and I'd like someone to tell me that I'm not as dumb as my idea sounds." (His exact words were: "Since I am going to do it anyway...").

Once they say that, it doesn't matter how many of the most respected people in the group say it's a bad idea, or how many excellent reasons they have for saying it's a bad idea, any post that doesn't essentially say, "Go ahead. Your on the right track" will be dismissed at best, but more likely ridiculed, and maybe even flamed.

Too bad. A lot of good points were brought up in this thread.

On the other hand, even if the OP didn't care for the advice he pretended to solicit, the discussion was still educational, and interesting to others. Nothing earth-shattering, but still good information.

Reply to
Warren

Thank you David, the straight up open grain is my concern here. I am still leaning towards the bluntish angle cut for quick water runoff in a trade-off of an increased the wound area.

FACE

Reply to
FACE

Thanks John, I will check out those resources you list to see if i can find a little guidance. I am thinking of waiting until the full onset (December?) of winter before i make the head cut.

FACE

Reply to
FACE

(No, it is not bad for the people who sell it; bad for the tree, yes.)

Read Dr. Alex Shigo for a full explanation. If your library doesn't have it, they can probably do an interloan and get it for you. If you work with trees at all, his two books are a must. Under a hundred dollars for the best arboriculture education available.

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Reply to
Betty Lane

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