Tired of bumping my string trimmer

[Steveo]

There you go. I use round-up, no fuss.

[dps]

For important tools, buy the best you can afford. They will last longer and do a better job. Caveat: they need maintenance.

Two philosophies on tools for casual use:

Buy a good one (not the best and/or most expensive). It will last longer and actually have some resale value (assuming it gets maintenance).

For tools that get excessive use or neglect, buy the cheapo. Due to neglect and hard use, neither the cheapo or the good one will last.

I go through shovels. I used to buy $5 shovels. They last about 2 years before they break (usually the handles, but yes, I have broken the blade on a couple). One year I splurged and bought a couple of high end shovels around $25-30 apiece. They lasted two years. I now buy $5 shovels (although the price has gone to $6 or 7).

Any project worth its salt is an excuse for a new tool.

[RoyDMercer]

When I lived in El Paso I had a gravel lawn. Even less fuss.

[Bill Spohn]

Indeed - you will spend more over the years replacing the cheap stuff and suffer the frustration of having it break down on you just when you needed it most.

For things that you will use for years like lawnmowers and weedeaters, it pays in the long run to spend some money up front and get a decent one.

I like the Shindaiwa products (I have both weedeater and hedge trimmer) but I understand that the Echo is pretty good and less expensive.

[Steveo]

I hear ya. I use washed river rock in my culvert out front..too steep to mow grass on it. Works out nice. :)

[zxcvbob]

I have an Echo line trimmer (SRM-2200) that I bought almost 20 years ago, and I believe it uses .095 line, which lasts pretty well. But for when I'm cutting tough weeds and brambles, I replace the head with a lawnmower blade.

[pausing to let that mental image sink in...]

I have no idea what kind of mower would take such a small blade; it's about 8 inches long, like an edger blade. The lawnmower blade works a lot better than a saw blade unless I'm trying to cut saplings. Just last weekend I bought a 9" edger blade that had the right size arbor hole and I'm experimenting with it. I've sharpened about 3/4" of the leading edge and it seems to work pretty well, but the steel is softer than the mower blade so I don't know how well it will stay sharp nor how long it will last.

A metal blade does a good job around a wood fence because you can see exactly where the blade is and cut right up close to the fence without hitting it. I wouldn't try it with a chain-link fence though.

Bob

[me6]

That's what i do also.....use RoundUp for trimming

[nswong]

Hi Goedjn,

I don't know his case, but for my case, I had to be very careful when dig up a transplant, or else the handle will break. Nowadays, the handle will not even strong enough for this type of job.

Regards, Wong

-- Latitude: 06.10N Longitude: 102.17E Altitude: 5m

[default]

What are you doing with the shovels that's causing the handles to break, and isn't there a different tool for doing that?

--Goedjn

[dps]

Some of them break from trying to pry rocks out of the New England soil and some of them get lost in the tall grass and I drive over them with the tractor (or occasionally the mower). In unusual circumstances, the handles will rot from being left out in the weather for several years (those are the ones that last the longest). Shovels get used for quick fence posts, row markers, wheel chocks and anti-woodchuck implements. There must be 1001 ways to (ab)use a shovel.

I *did* put them in the class of tool that were abused.

[KLM]

I have an el cheapo Weedeater electric cuz' I need to trim only a few places where the mower cannot get close enough to. While not directly relevant to this tread on gas trimmers I'll put in my 2 cents about string sizes. The bump feed doesn't work so I have to pop out the spool and feed the string. Not a big problem but still a nuisance. Experimented with a thicker line. I haven't seen a motor smoke that fast and destroy itself. So I took it apart to see if I can salvage any useful parts (none). It was obvious the thicker sting caused an imbalance, melted the fiber or plastic bearing and then seized the motor. The lesson then is stick to the recommended string weight. The problem may not show up soon in a motor mounted on bearings but the imbalance is there and will shorten the life of your trimmer.

Note: I will still buy this model, the smallest and cheapest, cuz' it suits my needs.

[Bill Spohn]

Handles aren't as strong these days.

And when I hire a kid to do chores, you have to explain to them that a pry-bar is for prying and a shovel is for digging and if they mix them up they WILL snap shovel handles. It does no good of course. They don't listen any better than we probably did at that age.

[Tom Miller]

[snip]

Although I generally agree with you about cheap tools, my Homelite trimmer is nearly 20 years old. Other than an occasional change of spark plug, I have had no problems with it whatsoever. Today I started it for the first time this season and it started on the second pull, as usual. But the string does break frequently. I also had a small Homelite chainsaw that lasted more than 20 years, although I did not use it frequently.

[gregpresley]

[Bob]

Right, Nothing wrong with Homelite if you have a small yard and use it lightly. Just not well designed - poorly constructed - and not made for real work.

Another thing: On the curved shaft model, notice that the starter pull rope is below the engine. Not an easy job to replace the rope etc. Usually runs $30.00 plus parts (that's what I charge).

Now look at the starter pull rope on an Echo or other mid-range trimmer. Notice it is above the engine on the back. Notice that is is fastened on with four screws. Most home owners can change this themselves in a few minutes.

I mention starter pull ropes because that is a common problem.. However, look at other parts on both types trimmers and imagine how hard or easy it would be to replace them.

Bob

[Roy]

With all those strikes against it already why even buy or have such a peice of poorly designed junk in the first place!

Just spend about double the charge for this service and buy a new one, which is what most folks do to day anyhow, thats why I can pick up this kind of junk from dumpsters and curbside trash just about every day. I melt down the aluminum etc.

Don't find anywhere near as many Echo,.,Stilh, Husky and other top grade stuff as I fo Poulan. McCullough, Homelite and Weedeater junk!

On some of those el cheapo models of trimmers and chainsaws its virtually a real PITA to remove even a carb without 90% of everything else also having to come apart in the process, and its in those hard to access areas is where most of the problems occur, such as a leaking carb mount gasket etc etc........Typical of piss poor design without the aspect of serviceability in mind during the design, as odds are service was never really intended due to the cheapness of these units.

Visit my website:

expressed are those of my wifes, I had no input whatsoever. Remove "nospam" from email addy.

[RoyDMercer]

My echo trimmer (SRM-2400SB) is only 9 years old. I'm glad to hear yours is still going strong after 20.

[Roy]

I have a Jonsered brush / string trimmer straight shaft, 40cc engine that has never missed a beat and is close to 25 years old. Wore out many line heads of various styles, wore out many of the steel brush blades but have never spent a penny on the machine yet other than air cleaner and spark plug etc. Starts right up time after time. Visit my website:

expressed are those of my wifes, I had no input whatsoever. Remove "nospam" from email addy.

[William W. Plummer]

I've had a HomeLite SX-135 for about 10 years with no problems whatsoever.

[KLM]

Thanks for the link. I always wanted to make my own equipment and cast metal.