Investigate underground piping, and associated valves. There is one that opens a valve in the ground below freezing level, and when the water is turned off, drains the water in the stand pipe to keep it from freezing. No need to totally drain the lines if you put them in deep enough. Not sure of their name, but I have seen lots of them in freezing country. They are red, and have a crooked handle top.
Steve
Where do you live that you're irrigating in winter... and if you live in a warm clime where one irrigates all year WTF mention winter, and if it's warm enough to irrigate WTF would you need to wait until spring to dig... are you fibbing? From reading your posts you're just making it ALL up... "iron" irrigation fittings your ass.
Agree that 1" is the minimum for the length of run he's working on. No reason to use anything smaller, the 1" is cheap and readily available.
That would be one hell of a project, running pipe below the frost line through mostly wooded areas. Around here, even if it's just open space, poly pipe is just pulled to bury it, almost never buried 3 ft deep, for obvious reasons. You just blow it out with a compressor at the end of the season. That's what is done with almost all the lawn irrigation systems. With some small percentage the pitch allows for self-draining.
Being so "cheap"inexpensive (as you say) I can't imagine anyone painting plastic tubing rather than occasionally replacing a portion... and it's not like it's going to deteriorate from UV within a short time... if not abused by kinking and driving vehicles over PVC it will last well over 10 years outdoors (no one paints their PVC drip systems either).
And no one would use glue for an irrigation system, every professionally installed system I've ever seen, and I've seen a lot of them and installed several myself, holds it all together with stainless steel crimp clamps, not screw type hose clamps, they use a stainless steel ring and crimping tool (fast, inexpensive, and neat - screw type hose clamps are expensive, difficult to work in dirt, and present a hazard due to the loose end). Gluing makes it difficult to make changes/repairs.
I've done that occasionally... just as much volume exits 100' 200',
300' 400' as 500' or more, so long as the hose is not kinked/flattened or otherwise constricted or run up hill whatever volume enters exits... I'm positive you've never actually done what you suggest, except tinkling with your tiny 2" fuse. What people don't realize is that their hose bib valve is what dictates volume.. if your hose bib is supplied by 1/2" copper using 5/8" hose won't supply any more volume than a 1/2" hose, except for the first couple seconds untill the little more volume in the larger hose is expelled, kinda like the first burst or pressure from a pressurized hose laying out in the hot sun... a very brief surge. And most folks do have 1/2" domestic water plumbing in their homes to each outlet... then the only benefits of using 5/8' garden hose is that its larger diameter and wall thickness is much less prone to kinking/collapsing and has a longer life than 1/2" hose. It's silly to buy 3/4" garden hose for the typical residence, it offers no benefit, it won't produce more volume and will be heavy/clumsy, and will quickly fill your hose reel, not to mention being more costly for nothing... 3/4" hose probably can't be coiled into a small enough diameter to fit the typical home owner's hose reel anyway... 3/4' hose is meant for commercial applications. One can increase pressure at the discharge by limiting exit diameter, by adjusting a nozzle, but that reduces volume... volume can't be increased past what is supplied from the source. There is only so much volume available from the typical residential water supply, that's why sprinker systems are installed with several zones... without separate zones if all the heads were run at once they'd dribble n' drip like your widdle impotent peepee. It's plain silliness installing a grid of piping over a six acre property and then supply it from a residential well, one would still need to walk about opening one valve at a time and stand there like a putz watering for however long before moving on to the next area. MUCH easier hauling water to the various plants... leave a bucket with a hole in it by each plant, and just refill from your hauled buckets as needed, less than 30 seconds per plant. Many large commercial nurserys use this system, wastes far, FAR less water... many sink a few 3' lenghts of 4" perforated poly pipe into the ground around each newly planted sapling, then periodically pass by hauling a water tank with watering wand in hand, don't even need to get down from the tractor to fill the irrigators.
You've never done that, you don't have anymore 5/8" hose than your one
50' length or you could actually try it... I have many 100' lengths of 5/8" hose and have actually done what you suggest... whatever volume goes in one end comes out the other end... or do you mean when your mommy pinches your widdle peepee while changing your nappy.
All an irrigation specialist needs to know is his well capacity and exit pipe diameter.. I seriously doubt his little cabin's water system can accomodate more than 3/4" outlet piping.
Those work like frost proof hose bibs coming through a basement foundation, the warmth of the basement prevents freezing because the valve stem is long enough to reach through the foundation wall to the valve that is actually inside the basement... I have four of them in my house... they work well providing they are pitched downward so they drain when the valve is closed... costs about four times as much as an ordinary hose bib, maybe $30 for a 1/2" supply line. Farmers use the type you're talking about, the warmer ground keeps them from freezing... the valve portion is down below the frost line with a very long valve stem... they are quite expensive, especially as pipe diameter increases... they need to be blown out before the first hard frost. There's another type that municipal water companys install at the curb in cold climes, they are way down in a vault that's installed past the frost line, with a long handled wrench to operate the valve, again very expensive.
Of course whatever volume goes in one end comes out the other. That has nothing to do with what you claimed, which is that the volume of water flowing through a pipe depends ONLY ON THE DIAMETER. The volume of water flowing through a pipe depends on the diameter, length, and pressure. The narrower the pipe the more resistance to flow if has. The longer the pipe the more resistance to flow it has. That's how the laws of physics apply here on planet Earth. So if you connect 50 ft of garden hose to your home which has a water pressure of
50lbs you're going to get MORE water coming out the other end than if you connect 250 ft of hose. And if you connect a long enough length of hose you will get zero flow because 50 lbs isn't enough pressure to overcome the total resistance. Capiche?And for someone so obviously ignorant, I would not be taking cheap shots at others here.
You are such a complete moron it isn't even funny. Have you seen many wells with a 3/4 inch connection?
Try telling all that to any plumber or irrigation specialisst. Prepare for them to laugh in your face.
Harry K
WTH? Where did I say I irrigate in winter? The system was my new well. the line that broke was an irrigation line used in summer. Where do I live? In Wa State.
Why don't you just give up? You have proven to be an utter moron,
Harry K
I fully doubt that. Nothing seems to sink into that head of his. At first I thought he was just another no-nothing, now I am sure he could be certified as a moron by a psychiatrist.
Exactly what happened to my line. I laid it in the fall and the leak (massive) surfaced in January. Had to shut down my well and re-open the community well line that I gave up on by drilling my own well. I had wound up being the unpaid maintenance man on the community well. Had enough of that after 10 years.
Harry K
I don't think he has seen _any_ plumbing except the spigot next to his trailer house.
Harry K
Have you ever heard of frictional losses?
They are called Frost Free Yard Hydrant. You have to remember to surround the bottom of them with coarse rock to give the water someplace to drain.
Yep. I'm in mid winter now in the sthn hemisphere and since it's been the driest June for decades, I've currently got my low pressure sprinkers running on my asparagus bed.
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