Dave,
More information please. If you visit the doctor for a $50 office call, you will not expect him to help you if you provide little more information than "my stomach hurts; I tried some Tums; my stomach still hurts."
You are seeking advice for a problem which is much bigger than a $50 issue. I'm willing to offer advice and I'm certain that others will also, but you need to take the effort to give us some details.
Please describe you problems and describe the terrain: Standing water, poorly graded lawn, wet basement, saturated soil (clay), estimated depth of topsoil (if any!), estimated depth of surface clay (until you hit hardpan), runoff from adjacent properties, natural springs in your area, etc. ? You don't have to answer all issues, but the more the better.
Describe you attempted fix: DIY "soak away" system or a "professionally installed system", type and size of aggregate used, type and diameter of drain pipe, installed using civil engineering transit/level/tape/leveling rod or just hillbilly guess & dig approach, pitch of terrain, pitch of drainage system, distance between laterals, specifics on the "soak aways" (dry basins), depth of laterals, etc. Once again, it is best if we aren't guessing about your specifics.
From my experience, 90% of subsurface drainage systems are improperly installed. About 50% of them fail to work adequately in the first year, another 25% eventually fail as the poorly installed systems degrade, and the other 25% work moderately well to extremely well, based upon blind luck rather than the skill of the installer. I know professional sports turf builders (golf course builders in particular) who can't understand why the exact same drainage design worked in situation #1 but not in situation #2. Their method of installation is quit simple: "That's the way we've always done it."
The more you tell us, the more we can help.
FYI: If you are attempted to correct poor drainage in a large area with extremely high clay content, you are usually wasting your effort unless you have laterals spaced at 3' or less. Yes, that sucks, but that is the reality of trying to make clay "soil" behave nicely. Even with 3' laterals, you need to have a reasonably good understanding of some soil engineering principals. Also, that pretty white crushed stone that everybody uses is one of the worst choices for aggregrate. It works fine for a while, but ultimately degrades as it shifts, compacts, and fills with clay.
Good luck, Gideon
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