paint for exterior wood

Hi, Not sure of anyone might be able to offer me a little advice but here goes...
What kind of paint (NOT woodstain) can I use in the garden - on fences, sheds etc?
I am looking for an actual paint as opposed to varnish or stain and hopefully looking for something Matt or Satin as opposed to gloss.
Thanks for any help
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Exterior oil based paints are usually the most durable.
Dave

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You definately do not want to use a flat or satin finish on a fence or on trim. They are both porous and stains will penetrate the full thickness of the paint film and you will be repainting constantly. Use a semi-gloss finish or gloss.
To make things easiest for you in the long run you should do a coat of oil base PRIMER that is tinted a shade lighter than your top coat paint. You can then use a quality paint such as Sherwin-Williams Superpaint latex (water-based) for your TWO top coats. Don't worry, the latex will stick to the oil based primer but it will not stick to oil based paint. I highly recommend going to Sherwin-Williams and telling the store manager what you intend to do and you will receive some good advice.
If you wish to prime with a latex primer then I highly recommend Zinnser 1-2-3.
Take take any shortcuts. At least 1 primer coate (2 is better) and always 2 top coats. Pressure wash or at least do a bleach wash of the fence prior to painting.
Bobby Baxter Happy Moose Gardens http://happymoosegardens.com
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If I were choosing a finish for a fence and liked the look of paint, I think I would go with an opaque stain. I know that the OP said he didn't want to use stain, but I think it would be a better choice than paint. In any event, the best place to ask would be in a paint store like Sherwin Williams (as opposed to the paint department at Wal-Mart).
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I am on the old home list and frankly unless you are blocking stains of some kind primer is not necessary. it is thinner and generally cheaper is only advantage. it usually cannot be tinted to the color I want so I skip it. for blocking stains I havent found anything as good as shellac. Ingrid
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snipped-for-privacy@wi.rr.xx.com wrote in

The other advantage of primer is that is sticky (to paint and surfaces anyway) ... so you can paint a surface that you might not have otherwise been able to (by priming the surface and painting the primer).
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Did you seriously consider stain? It looks very "natural," unlike paint, and will not blister and peel the way paint does.
vince norris
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Hi everyone. Thanks for your replies you've all been very helpful. The reason I was looking for a paint and not a woodstain for the shed is partly because the colour it is now is such a bright red (that was a wood stain) that a wood stain will not look as it should. I tried putting green on before and it didn't look slightly green just a nasty kind of browny colour.

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I have been a professional house painter for many years and finally shut down my painting business last august to pursue designing gardening web site and producing garden videos full time. My personal prefrence would be to use a solid color stain to paint a fence. This only requires two coats, and will normally outlast paint since it penetrates the wood, where paint is only covers the surface and will peel.
If you have a dark stain on a storage building, then you need to use a primer/stain hider. If the current stain is oil based then I would prime with Zinnser BIN (tinted toward the color of the top coat), if the current stain is latex then I would use the Zinnser 1-2-3. Sometimes these dark stains do require 2 coats to cover them enough so that when you appley two top coats you get the color you want without the bleedthrough..Then I would paint the buidling with Sherwin-Williams Supepaint latex. Paint the siding with a satin finish and the trim with a gloss or semi-gloss.
A lot of these storage buildings have T111 siding that will suck up paint in a big way. You will definately save a bunch of money by priming first since primer is much less expensive than quality top finish paint. The primer will seal the wood so that the paint goes on easier and not require as much.
Bobby Baxter Happy Moose Garden http://happymoosegardens.com
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What kind of wood is the shed made of? Some woods should not be painted--cedar and redwood, for example. Paint will not adhere to them properly.
Staining is the only alternative.
J. Del Col
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of course cedar can be painted. the entire east coast cape cods are painted.. mostly white. Ingrid
Some woods should not be

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snipped-for-privacy@wi.rr.xx.com wrote in

What I've gathered is you should definitely not paint cedar ... with latex paint. Oil based is okay. Although I'm not sure if oil based primer with a latex top coat would be okay or not.
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snipped-for-privacy@wi.rr.xx.com wrote in message

And repainted ad infinitum. Cedar and redwood are difficult to paint because they contain soluble products that migrate through the paint film and cause stains. They are best stained and sealed.
J. Del Col
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all wooden surfaces have to be repainted every few years. use shellac to seal the water soluble stains. I use shellac whenever there is a problem. one coat does it.
Ingrid
snipped-for-privacy@mail.ab.edu (J. Del Col) wrote:

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stain looks nice, but I don't think it does a lot to protect the wood. you will need to top coat with a sealer at least.
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I have had fantastic success with deck porch and cement, latex paint. it is made my Menards. I tried Behr supposedly high end exterior paint and it peeled in a month. but the Menards stuff... I even put it on wet treated lumber and the paint is still perfect. no peeling at all. just remember that gloss paint sheds dirt. matt paint will hold dirt.

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I was about to start a new thread with my question, but these comments on paint and stain lead right into . . . What's the latest info on paints/protectors/preservers that are "safe" for use around food plants, children's play equipment, etc. My old raised bed sides of 2x12 spruce have reached the end of their useful life as they crumble away from the beds. They lasted about ten years, which was longer than I had expected. I'm replacing all beds with 6x6 cedar, which is a local (to me) wood and is supposed to have good rot resistant qualities, and is also reasonably priced, 8 footers for 10 bucks each. My initial plan was to use the wood unprotected, but now I'm wondering what kind of life should I expect and would it be worth my extra time and expense to add a few coats of something to extend the life. And the grandchildren, the cats and dogs, and the health conscious friends want to know "what's in that stuff and is it safe?"
-- Mister Gardener Maine Coast Zone 4-5
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