Large Pot

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I have a ceramic pot that looks to be about ten gallons in size and it doesn't have a drain hole at the bottom. I was thinking of placing rocks and sand at the bottom for a base and setting a five gallon plastic pot on top of that and then filling in the rest with potting mix. I was also considering drilling a hole in the bottom of the pot myself. I presume that's possible. Has anyone else confronted this type of problem and have advice to give?
--

Billy


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wrote:

If it is a valuable antique pot don't drill any holes in it. You can drill a few holes in the bottom using a concrete drill, slow speed, and water for cooling/lubricant. For a pot that large, get or make a dolly so it can be moved around.
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I have a lot of very large pots and containers (20-50 gallon size) and I use those Styrofoam packing peanuts instead of rubble, rocks, broken pottery, etc. to fill the bottom. To keep the soil from sifting into the peanuts I lay down a layer of coffee filters to cover them before covering with soil. This is very helpful in 'lightening up the load' of big pots. Make sure the peanuts aren't the biodegradable kind. If they get wet you'll just end up with a small flattened, soggy, gooey, congealed mess. If in doubt run some water over a peanut first to test it. Color and shape no longer distinguish which are which.
Val
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wrote:

Why not look online for a lotus 'Baby Doll' which is a dwarf and plant that in this vessel?
I have one similar and it is beautiful.
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I'll add to what the others suggested about drilling. If the bottom is concave at all, back it up with a block of wood so that the bottom is resting solidly where you will drill. Slow and easy and even easier when it begins to go thru.
Charlie
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Thanks for all the advice, I'm off to get a concrete drill, although Jangchub's suggestion of lotus slowed me down a bit, but I don't think I have the heat or the sunlight for it.
Thanls again.
--

Billy


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wrote:

This lotus doesn't need full sun and there are other dwarf forms which are cold hardy.
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Billy wrote:

Do not attempt to do this job with a large masonary drill, almost guaranteed to FIU.
Search <tungston carbide grit hole saw>.
http://www.holesaws.com.cn/products/holesaws/gritsaw/gritsaw.htm
http://www.mytoolstore.com/mkmorse/tcg.html
With pottery use the small pilot hole to cut from both sides.
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In article

Hmmm...
You could use rotary dremel drill. This tool is a favorite of mine. Good for many things. I never tried ceramic, they have drill bits for ceramic tiles. All can be found at most hardware stores.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/ProjectsAndCommunity/projects/Pages/detail.as px?pcpid=4
read this before project.
http://www.potters.org/subject47614.htm
Good with your project ... Dan
--
Email "dan lehr at comcast dot net". Text only or goes to trash automatically.

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What is it... aren't all drills rotary by default? Your link below doesn't work, even when I search at the dremel.com web site no <rotary drill> comes up.

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In article

Sheldon. There is a device called a star drill. Uses a hammer or a sledge hammer. I used one to punch holes in my basement floor. Also does concrete blocks. Not applicable for Billy's job for sure.
Bill
Bill
--
Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA

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I know what a star drill is, I've used them, all sizes... still they are rotated after each hit... that's why they are called a star drill rather than a star chisel (although I've seen them listed as star chisels too).
There are many ways one can make a large hole in pottery but I think the type of hole saw I indicated works best (pretty much idiot proof), that's what's used by various trades people for making holes in various hard brittle glass-like materials. If one is skillful and very experienced with machine tools a trepanning tool will work too.
http://www.encyclopedia.com/doc/1G1-14171429.html
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Sheldon wrote:

Try:
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/ProjectsAndCommunity/projects/Pages/detail.aspx?pcpid=4 or http://tinyurl.com/6jo44n (in theory goes to the same place as the dremel.com link)
Shows how to do pretty much exactly what you're asking about using Dremel products, with model and part numbers.
--
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--John
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Boy you guys are terrible. Just when I thought I had enough stuff you show me dremel. http://tinyurl.com/6jo44n Got me thinking of making custom orchid pots.
Thanks !
Bill
--
Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA

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Bill wrote:

If you're thinking of making custom pots for pay then skip the Dremels and get a die grinder-- http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?ItemnumberG869 works a treat for 15 bucks--takes Dremel collets and Dremel bits (but stay out of the line of fire until you're sure the bit's gonna hold together--it turns almost twice as fast as a Dremel). For more power http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?ItemnumberD716 works fine. Being air tools grit from the grinding doesn't get into the works. Downside is that you need a compressor.
--
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It was maybe a $30 pot, free to me. I may take my chances with the masonry drill bit.
--

Billy


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Neither URL works... goes to an Error page.
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In article

I shall try again, those pesky links :)
http://www.potters.org/subject47614.htm
I think Dremel must be using a PC for their web site. Our simple little garden forum must have brought it down.
Try there previous page, maybe someday it will come up.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/ProjectsAndCommunity/Pages/default.aspx
Enjoy Life ... Dan
--
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In article

This should give one an idea what the little drill looks like.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId9663-353- 400-3/55&lpage=none
(Amazon.com product link shortened) 006JSPB/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid08897875&sr=1-9
I own the older dremel model, I have heard the newer XPR does not hold up as well. also the rotozip drill is nice also, my brother the carpenter has this one.
http://www.rotozip.com/learn/ProductVideos.html
Enjoy Life ... Dan
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In article

Guys, guys, I just want to drill a couple of stinkin' holes. At these prices I could buy a couple of more pots with holes. I get the drift and I'll look for a diamond drill bit.
--

Billy


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