Large Pot

I have a ceramic pot that looks to be about ten gallons in size and it doesn't have a drain hole at the bottom. I was thinking of placing rocks and sand at the bottom for a base and setting a five gallon plastic pot on top of that and then filling in the rest with potting mix. I was also considering drilling a hole in the bottom of the pot myself. I presume that's possible. Has anyone else confronted this type of problem and have advice to give?

Reply to
Billy
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If it is a valuable antique pot don't drill any holes in it. You can drill a few holes in the bottom using a concrete drill, slow speed, and water for cooling/lubricant. For a pot that large, get or make a dolly so it can be moved around.

Reply to
Phisherman

Why not look online for a lotus 'Baby Doll' which is a dwarf and plant that in this vessel?

I have one similar and it is beautiful.

Reply to
Jangchub

I have a lot of very large pots and containers (20-50 gallon size) and I use those Styrofoam packing peanuts instead of rubble, rocks, broken pottery, etc. to fill the bottom. To keep the soil from sifting into the peanuts I lay down a layer of coffee filters to cover them before covering with soil. This is very helpful in 'lightening up the load' of big pots. Make sure the peanuts aren't the biodegradable kind. If they get wet you'll just end up with a small flattened, soggy, gooey, congealed mess. If in doubt run some water over a peanut first to test it. Color and shape no longer distinguish which are which.

Val

Reply to
Val

I'll add to what the others suggested about drilling. If the bottom is concave at all, back it up with a block of wood so that the bottom is resting solidly where you will drill. Slow and easy and even easier when it begins to go thru.

Charlie

Reply to
Charlie

Thanks for all the advice, I'm off to get a concrete drill, although Jangchub's suggestion of lotus slowed me down a bit, but I don't think I have the heat or the sunlight for it.

Thanls again.

Reply to
Billy

Do not attempt to do this job with a large masonary drill, almost guaranteed to FIU.

Search .

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pottery use the small pilot hole to cut from both sides.

Reply to
Sheldon

This lotus doesn't need full sun and there are other dwarf forms which are cold hardy.

Reply to
Jangchub

Hmmm...

I agree.

You could use rotary dremel drill. This tool is a favorite of mine. Good for many things. I never tried ceramic, they have drill bits for ceramic tiles. All can be found at most hardware stores.

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read this before project.

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with your project ... Dan

Reply to
Dan L.

On Apr 22, 11:07=EF=BF=BDam, "Dan L." wrote= :

What is it... aren't all drills rotary by default? Your link below doesn't work, even when I search at the dremel.com web site no comes up.

Reply to
Sheldon

Sheldon. There is a device called a star drill. Uses a hammer or a sledge hammer. I used one to punch holes in my basement floor. Also does concrete blocks. Not applicable for Billy's job for sure.

Bill

Bill

Reply to
Bill

Try:

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(in theory goes to the same place as the dremel.com link)

Shows how to do pretty much exactly what you're asking about using Dremel products, with model and part numbers.

Reply to
J. Clarke

Boy you guys are terrible. Just when I thought I had enough stuff you show me dremel.

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Got me thinking of making custom orchid pots.

Thanks !

Bill

Reply to
Bill

Neither URL works... goes to an Error page.

Reply to
Sheldon

=BDUses a hammer or a =EF=BF=BD

I know what a star drill is, I've used them, all sizes... still they are rotated after each hit... that's why they are called a star drill rather than a star chisel (although I've seen them listed as star chisels too).

There are many ways one can make a large hole in pottery but I think the type of hole saw I indicated works best (pretty much idiot proof), that's what's used by various trades people for making holes in various hard brittle glass-like materials. If one is skillful and very experienced with machine tools a trepanning tool will work too.

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Reply to
Sheldon

I shall try again, those pesky links :)

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think Dremel must be using a PC for their web site. Our simple little garden forum must have brought it down.

Try there previous page, maybe someday it will come up.

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Life ... Dan

Reply to
Dan L.

This should give one an idea what the little drill looks like.

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?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1208897875&sr=1-9I own the older dremel model, I have heard the newer XPR does not hold up as well. also the rotozip drill is nice also, my brother the carpenter has this one.

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Life ... Dan

Reply to
Dan L.

I took such a pot to a local nursery that sells ceramic pots, including some without drain holes. They drilled a hole for me after I signed a waiver stating that there was risk of breakage during drilling and that I would not hold them liable for such breakage. They would even drill one of their own pots but only after I bought and paid for it and signed the waiver.

If you don't have a drain hole, then you should choose a plant that can accept (but doesn't really require) wet soil. In such a large pot as you describe, there always is the risk of overwatering in a way that cannot be readily detected.

Reply to
David E. Ross

Guys, guys, I just want to drill a couple of stinkin' holes. At these prices I could buy a couple of more pots with holes. I get the drift and I'll look for a diamond drill bit.

Reply to
Billy

If you're thinking of making custom pots for pay then skip the Dremels and get a die grinder--

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works a treat for 15 bucks--takes Dremel collets and Dremel bits (but stay out of the line of fire until you're sure the bit's gonna hold together--it turns almost twice as fast as a Dremel). For more power
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works fine. Being air tools grit from the grinding doesn't get into the works. Downside is that you need a compressor.

Reply to
J. Clarke

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