Have any of you out there got a sure fire way of getting rid of or
controlling these pests? For 2 years in a row now they have infested my
plum, cherry,and apple trees. Also my 3 grape vines. They appear to start
coming around Mothers day. I've tried malathion which temporarily helped,
and a mixture of sevin concentrate mixed with dawn dish soap and water. It
controlled them for a day, but the next day they were at it again. The
ground would be covered with dead ones, but the next day there would be new
ones that arrived. I was so fed up that I was considering cutting the trees
down. I'm afraid to eat any fruit if there is any because of all the
chemicals. I live in Springfield, Illinois. I've never seen any beetles
until 1907. I would appreciate any help or suggestion any of you out there
Thanks for your help.
milky spore or bT to kill the grubs. it takes a couple years to see
the effects, but it will last for over 10 years.
pheremone lures work, but they need to be really far away from the
trees/vines to be effective. if you can't put them several hundred
feet away, then you'll only end up attracting more beetles *to* your
hand pick the beetles & drop into a bucket of soapy water. if you
know a kid, this is a great job for them. offer a penny per dead
Lee, that would be an impossible task hand picking those battles. My trees
and everyone else's are just covered with beetles. It would take forever
just to pick one tree. Even if it were possible and I took the time they'd
be back tomorrow and completely covered with them again. You have to see it
to believe it.
no, i believe it. they go after my hops like crazy as well.
i know getting all of them is impossible, which is why i gave you
several things you should try, but for every beetle you handpick &
kill, there are hundreds more that won't be hatched.
you already said that poisoning your fruit hasn't helped, so i
gave you organic methods that *will* work, just not immediately.
the first thing is to kill the grubs, which is why you need the
application of milky spore or BT to your yard (& your neighbor's
yards if you can get them to cooperate). if your neighbors aren't
willing to cooperate, put the pheremone trap bags on your
property's perimeter as far from your trees & grapes as possible.
lead the beetles to the neighbors.
and pick & destroy as many adult beetles as you can, to prevent
them from reproducing.
it will take a couple years to see a reduction, but it will
I agree about the milky spore. The largest problem is your yard/land
has a huge amount of japanese beetle grubs. You need to call your
extension agent and get his/her butt out there to determine what is
drawing them in such hordes. The milky spore is awesome. And as the
grubs ingest and die of it, they break down and it puts more into
their environment. Hand picking isn't an option here when you have
fruiting trees. Easier when things are lower and not such a physical
challange. You COULD use some Japanese beetle bags at the perimeter
coupled with the milky spore to double wham them. I'd see more about
using something less harmful that knocks them on their asses. Anyone
know the effects of spraying them with pyrethrum solution (just the
Japs not anything else as it WILL kill anything else, including
beneficials) maybe you could plant a draw crop for them. I DO know
that if you sow 4 o'clocks underneath or nearby, it draws the Japs,
but as they munch a few leaves, it too, kills them...........seen it
work.....I've also seen a horrific infestation of fruiting trees at a
house I had considered buying years ago that was one of the reasons I
changed my mind about the house at the time. The trees and fruit were
literally swarming with them! Once you use the milky spore, and some
back up, you'll eventually see a decrease in their populations. (you
could also hang the bags to draw them away from your yard and trees,
because it uses a phermone from females to draw them)
hope my agreeances helps. keep us posted.
madgardener (maddie) gardening a bit in the green bowl in upper
northeastern Tennessee, zone 7a feeling like zone 6a at the moment
with these wintery temperatures and snows and ice!
Sevin is very effective, just don't be tempted to mix it in stronger
concentrations, if anything lean towards the weak side. The trick is
to spray lightly every day over 5-7 days, even if you see no beetles,
it takes time for Sevin to work. Spray during the warmest part of the
day and if it's raining then there is no point in spraying until it's
dry. And use a quality sprayer that will easily reach to the tops of
your trees without your standing directly underneath. Be mindful of
wind direction, keep all others clear, and you should have no problems
with over spray. Hand picking and attractant traps are a waste of
time, effort, and money... mostly you'll be attracting and picking
beetles from your neighbor's property. Anyone who employs a few brain
cells will quickly realize how idiotic it is to do anything that will
attract even more beetles. I bought some of those silly traps, once I
read the instructions and realized that they need to be set on a
perimeter a distance from my trees that I want to protect I burst out
in hillarious laughter for getting sucked in to spend my money to
protect my neighbor's plants... I returned them and got my money back.
You're obviously incapable of engaging in mature discussion because
you're obviously an infantile pinheaded numbskull who is making
ridiculous assumptions. Maybe in your world everythjing is tiny,
neat, and all tied up in a little package. The trees I am protecting
are strewn out over many acres and my property abuts 17 neighbors all
around its perimeter including those across a road consisting of 1200
feet of frontage. You are something to be avoided, and so be it.
Sevin is effective, but has a long retentive property. It could make
the fruit inedible at the harvest time. A better choice may be
Imidan, which will also kill these critters and it breaks down over a
period of a few weeks, in the sun.
I would add to your spray precautions to wear some kind of breathing
apparatus. I saw a scary program on Parkinson's disease where they
implied it could be kicked off by exposure to pesticides. I continue
to use pesticides, but wear protective gear and breathing devices, and
try to stay upwind of the sprayer.
Those items work well but they do not prevent the beetles from "flying
in" (from adjacent non-treated areas). I have not found a 100 percent
way of getting rid of all of them but "hand picking" and the recommended
items do help.
Bill R. (Ohio Valley, U.S.A)
To see pictures from my garden visit http://members.iglou.com/brosen
Snow storm reading. i/2 inch here if lucky :(((
I used milky 20 years ago but you folks got me thinking perhaps $60
is in order again. Wish there was similar for moles/voles critters !
Have not seen any beetles except a stray or few in the last ten
years.. Can't imagine infestation on the order described. Sounds
biblical only not locusts. Our beetles at the height of population
maybe numbered 2000.
halfway down the page, under biological controls.
bacterium typically used as a microbial insecticide. The Bt strain
registered for the Japanese beetle is for use on the grub stage
only. Bt is a stomach poison and must be ingested to be effective.
Apply it to the soil as you would insecticides. Effectiveness is
similar to that of insecticides. Check with your extension agent
regarding the availability of Bt.
it also suggests nematodes & parasites, as well as habitat
I have used a coffee can, lid, and a little soapy water. With a
little practice, you can tap them and they fall in to the can. That
works well in some situations. They don't have many predators but
certainly don't like a soapy spray! Thankfully, the infestations are
A few years back, my area had swarms of the kind you mention. Tops of large
trees were stripped and smaller trees were left entirely leafless. My
neighbor had an apple tree that was stripped bare by the beetles. My roses
were especially affected. After the first blooms came on the roses, there
were no more for weeks after the japanese beetles came. I used the bags,
and in the beginning, a bag would be full and touching the ground in half a
day. I got immense pleasure from seeing thousands of the little buggars die
that were lured into the bags and the bags did help to keep them off the
plants I was protecting....you just have to be very diligent in checking the
bags several times a day, and placement is important too. I handpicked and
sprayed with liquid sevin all that I could that didn't land in the traps.
The bags did make a difference, but not enough. After a couple of years of
battling the little demons, I put out some milky spore and continued using
the bags. I started seeing a huge difference in about 3 years. Now, I
rarely see any japanese beetles at all. I swear by the milky spore. It's
expensive if you have a large area, but worth it.
Gloria in NE Alabama
One big distinction Gloria. You are not spraying edibles. Sevin is
not a chemical I would use on fruit, etc. It has a long retention
time. Imidan, on the other hand, can do the same job and dissipates
after a few days in the sun. I have heard that milky spore does not
work well in harder soils, like clay. It may work in more loamy or
No, I was not spraying edibles, but you could do without the spraying and
just use the traps and especially the milky spore. It will take some time,
but the end result is good. My soil is Alabama clay. hth
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