Was concerned about it spreading. Apparently, has no vine properties, or major rootage. Just want to know what it is now. Interspersed with St. Augustine in some locations near the house.
Dave
Was concerned about it spreading. Apparently, has no vine properties, or major rootage. Just want to know what it is now. Interspersed with St. Augustine in some locations near the house.
Dave
"Dave" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@corp.supernews.com:
I don't know what it is but KILL IT NOW!~ It is going to produce a little prickly seed head and then all will be lost. It was all over the place in Indiana.
Grass is hard to ID, but just off hand, it looks like Nut Grass to me. I've been pulling it out of my herb garden for years.
Sometimes there are "nuts" on the roots too, but even tho' they are supposed to be edible, I've found them to be unbearably bitter.
Looks like Nut Sedge. Left to it's own it will spread by the underground roots and also will spread by seed if left to go that far. Comes back every year. It is tough to get rid of in the lawn. Pulling is one option but that usually leaves the root and it comes right back. Last year in the drought I had luck with Molasses and water. One cup in a gallon and soak the area around the crown. Didn't seem to work this year I expect because of the rain. IMAGE is made to take care of it and does a good job, may take a couple of sprayings. The downside in the St Augustine is that it acts like a growth inhibitor. The grass will stop growing where you spray but will not be killed and will eventually recover.
Good Luck,
It's nutsedge.
And because of the underground nut, it's one of the hardest weeds to control you'll come across in your lawn.
Red
Those three-ranked leaves are a clue it's a sedge, though I can't begin to identify it from that photo.
I've successfully killed small populations of yellow nutsedge (Cyperus esculentus) by putting on a cotton glove over a nitrile glove, and then dipping finger and thumb into some glyphosate. Draw the leaves of the sedge between finger and thumb.. then move on to the next plant. Tedious, but effective.
Kay
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I like your style Kay.
when you want what you want and are willing to work to obtain it then the satisfaction of having it can not be beat.
a small paintbrush provides excellent application control when there are desirable plants located in such a way as to make spraying impossible. but the technique requires that you really want what you want.
Sedgehammer.
Steveo wrote in news:20070901000639.985$ snipped-for-privacy@newsreader.com:
can work my fingers deep enough in the St. Augustine next to it. Not a whole lot there, primarily scattered. Knock it out in 1/2 hour easy.
Went to the accompanying weblink:
I can't help but wonder what kind of lawn it'd make on it's own. (please forgive me!) I have problems with a stompy dog where NOTHING will grow.
If this stuff is that tough, I wonder if it can survive a Border Collie?
I'm constantly pulling nut grass out of my herb garden so I do have some available...
Purslane is supposed to be highly nutritious and edible, but I've never tried it.
I pull it all out every year and every year it comes back, with NO new soil importation either! It just appears.
I'm wondering if I should just give in and use it as a food plant. ;-)
Perhaps you have the related Purple Nutsedge? (according to
One mature plant can produce 240,000 seeds which are viable for 40 years (Weeds of the Northern US and Canada).
It thrives in drought conditions and hoeing is not an effective remedy. Almost any piece of the plant left to touch the soil will re-root. It is hard to pull the complete root of larger plants without loosening the soil first.
It is okay to eat as greens, but I don't need the whole garden covered with it...
ROFL!!!
I totally understand. :-) I weed it as aggressively as I do the bindweed (wild morning glory).
THAT stuff would take over the entire back yard if I'd let it, and the seeds will lay fallow and come up after each rain (or watering) all year long.
Yup. =)
Worth a try but I doubt you'll have much success. The tops & small portion of the roots are very loosly connected to the nut. When you pull on the top it breaks away from the nut which then forms a new shoot. Nuts can be as deep as 18" so unless you've got really long fingers, you'll probably leave the nut in the ground to resprout.
Chemical control is difficult also, yellow being slightly easier than purple. Here's the recommended herbicides: Sedgehammer for both yellow and purple. Basagran or MSMA for yellow. Image for purple. (Note that roundup/glyphosate is not listed. It affects tops only but not the nut).
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