HELP - weeds in new lawn

we have a new home in Michigan, put down about 2" of topsoil over a mostly clay base. We seeded the front about 3 months ago, and it is growing slow but OK(no weeds). However, we planted the back about 7 weeks ago, the weeds are now really bad. I think the weed plants from the neighborhood wend to seed and the weed seeds blew(floated) to the back and implanted themselves in our back yard before the grass took. Now I have about 80% grass / 20% weeds in our back yard. the grass is still quite fine(small bladed). My question is: can I put down chemicals(weed and feed) to kill the weeds? I am concerned about killing the newly planted grass. We have about .75 acres in the back and I DONT want to kill it all and re-seed HELP
Thanks,
Dean Mathews
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On 20 Aug 2003 21:14:55 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Weed killers on new grass is a very harsh treatment. Weeds won't grow well in a thick lawn, and that's what you need to strive to get. What I'd recommend is mow short, put down more grass seed with starter fertilizer now, then wait to spot treat the weeds next spring. The young grass will be establishing their root system during the winter months. Buy a good broadcast spreader (~$40) with a decent size bin and putting down seed, fertilizer and other products will be quick and easy. Please, avoid the weed-and-feed stuff.
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Do not use weed control product on new young grass. The grass at this stage may react severely to the chemicals and dye. Weeds may invade the grass at any time and you may want to hand pull or spot treat the lawn but never use weed and feed, pre-emergent, or treat the total lawn with killer at least for one year of growth.
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Thank You for all your advice. I decided to try to get the grass as full as possible, thus 'smothering' out the weeds.
Thanks Guys/Gals
snipped-for-privacy@aol.comic (TOM KAN PA) wrote in message

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As I have been explained to, dont quote me, but when you are growing grass the roots must develop a CROWN in the soil.
This CROWN once developed will cover the roots and allows the grass to go dormant, thus being able to grow back.
When you start new seed, the thing to remember is that it must constantly be moist. When the seed is moist, and then dries up, it will not come back.
Fall is the best time to seed, but make sure it is not too late in the fall. Once the seed freezes, its basically all over.
Using an overseeder is great because it actually cuts lines in your lawn and brushes the seed into the cut lines so the seed makes direct contact with the soil so you have a perfect combination, seed and soil. The only thing missing now is the moisture, and that is why spring and fall are best.
If you have an irrigation system however, and are using it properly, you may be able to over come this seasonal
problem.
Test an area first to see if it will work for you, and make sure to use a Starter Fertilizer.
Once your grass is growing, get on a professional fertilizing program for your area. You should be able to find in your local area someone to TEST the soil. In our area, for $25, you can send a soil sample to JOHN DEMPSEY and they will return you with he results of what you should do to optimize your lawn.
You will get a report back giving you numbers such as 10-10 30, etc. Bring this number to a real fertilization store, something like LESCO and they will hook you up.
Good luck
IMHO
Danny
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