Does anyone know if there's a good way to discourage a hazelnut tree from constantly sending up shoots all around the base of its trunk?
I keep cutting them off, and new ones keep springing up. It makes it difficult to trim around the tree with the ever-expanding ring of shoot stubs.
Argo
If the graft is made so low that it is practically "in" the rootstock so that the tree or shrub can have its graft below the surface, suckering will either not occur or will be lessened. If the graft is above the soil surface, there is almost nothing that can be done except keep cutting off the suckers, which will eventually (if not removed) overwhelm the cultivar in favor of whatever provided the hardier rootstock.
As a generality, with deciduous trees & shrubs, pruning at high summer suppresses both leaf growth & sucker growth, whereas spring pruning encourages both.
For non-organic gardeners there are chemical sucker suppressants like Orchard Master Broadleaf Herbicide which can be diluted with a surficant (possibly ammonium sulfate, or whatever might be the individual product's instructions/directions when used as a sucker suppressant) & applied to hazel suckers between April & August (a maximum of four times without killing the tree -- pruning four times would be even better however). With chemical suppressants, if you intended to harvest the hazel nuts, that might not be entirely safe until the following year.
Making a routine of sucker removal is usually the best option. If the graft is simply too high on the trunk, pruning suckers may be required pretty much forever. But a low graft may only need suckers controlled for a couple of years before the widening trunk overwhelms the rootstock's ability to generate its own buds rather than just feed the grafted cultivar.
Suckers tend to generate from the same spot over & over. Sometimes it is possible to literally cut that spot out of the rootcrown. Obviously this can't be done if it is suckering in several places & cutting into the bark would girdle & serioiusly damage or kill the tree. But if it suckers continuously from one sput, get a good pruning book out of the library so you can see drawings of how to cut or core a healable portion out of the base of the tree.
If you're not speaking of a grafted hazel but a wild specimen, there is even less to be done about some wild hazels' desire to be big multi-trunked shrubs rather than upright trees, as the tree form is less natural. You just have to keep training it until it is quite big around & the main trunk begins to dominate the roots' ability to do more than sustain the main tree.
-paghat the ratgirl
i dont know if this is of any help at all but someone once told me tha
if u cut off all the suckers of trees like lilac standards, or suc like that once the suckers are off u paint the suckering area wit outdoor latex paint. they said that it would help stop or woul completely stop the suckering problem. not sure but would appreciate hearing what anyone else has to say o this as well. tak care, sockiescat.
- Does anyone know if there's a good way to discourage a hazelnut tree from constantly sending up shoots all around the base of its trunk?
I keep cutting them off, and new ones keep springing up. It makes it difficult to trim around the tree with the ever-expanding ring o shoot stubs.
-If the graft is made so low that it is practically "in" the rootstoc so that the tree or shrub can have its graft below the surface, suckering will either not occur or will be lessened. If the graft is above th soil surface, there is almost nothing that can be done except keep cuttin off the suckers, which will eventually (if not removed) overwhelm th cultivar in favor of whatever provided the hardier rootstock.
As a generality, with deciduous trees & shrubs, pruning at high summer suppresses both leaf growth & sucker growth, whereas spring pruning encourages both.
For non-organic gardeners there are chemical sucker suppressants like Orchard Master Broadleaf Herbicide which can be diluted with surficant (possibly ammonium sulfate, or whatever might be the individua product's instructions/directions when used as a sucker suppressant) & applie to hazel suckers between April & August (a maximum of four times without killing the tree -- pruning four times would be even better however) With chemical suppressants, if you intended to harvest the hazel nuts, that might not be entirely safe until the following year.
Making a routine of sucker removal is usually the best option. If the graft is simply too high on the trunk, pruning suckers may be required pretty much forever. But a low graft may only need suckers controlle for a couple of years before the widening trunk overwhelms the rootstock's ability to generate its own buds rather than just feed the grafted cultivar.
Suckers tend to generate from the same spot over & over. Sometimes i is possible to literally cut that spot out of the rootcrown. Obviousl this can't be done if it is suckering in several places & cutting into th bark would girdle & serioiusly damage or kill the tree. But if it suckers continuously from one sput, get a good pruning book out of the librar so you can see drawings of how to cut or core a healable portion out o the base of the tree.
If you're not speaking of a grafted hazel but a wild specimen, ther is even less to be done about some wild hazels' desire to be big multi-trunked shrubs rather than upright trees, as the tree form i less natural. You just have to keep training it until it is quite big aroun & the main trunk begins to dominate the roots' ability to do more than sustain the main tree.
-paghat the ratgirl
-- Get your Paghat the Ratgirl T-Shirt he
-- sockiescat
The use of latex paint has been shown to encourage disease and so is n longer reccomended. Much better just to cut them off and leave it a that
-- penance
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