i dont know if this is of any help at all but someone once told me tha
if u cut off all the suckers of trees like lilac standards, or suc
like that once the suckers are off u paint the suckering area wit
outdoor latex paint. they said that it would help stop or woul
completely stop the suckering problem.
not sure but would appreciate hearing what anyone else has to say o
this as well.
In article firstname.lastname@example.org
Does anyone know if there's a good way to discourage a hazelnut tree
from constantly sending up shoots all around the base of its trunk?
I keep cutting them off, and new ones keep springing up. It makes it
difficult to trim around the tree with the ever-expanding ring o
If the graft is made so low that it is practically "in" the rootstoc
that the tree or shrub can have its graft below the surface, suckering
will either not occur or will be lessened. If the graft is above th
surface, there is almost nothing that can be done except keep cuttin
the suckers, which will eventually (if not removed) overwhelm th
in favor of whatever provided the hardier rootstock.
As a generality, with deciduous trees & shrubs, pruning at high summer
suppresses both leaf growth & sucker growth, whereas spring pruning
For non-organic gardeners there are chemical sucker suppressants like
Orchard Master Broadleaf Herbicide which can be diluted with
(possibly ammonium sulfate, or whatever might be the individua
instructions/directions when used as a sucker suppressant) & applie
hazel suckers between April & August (a maximum of four times without
killing the tree -- pruning four times would be even better however)
chemical suppressants, if you intended to harvest the hazel nuts, that
might not be entirely safe until the following year.
Making a routine of sucker removal is usually the best option. If the
graft is simply too high on the trunk, pruning suckers may be required
pretty much forever. But a low graft may only need suckers controlle
a couple of years before the widening trunk overwhelms the rootstock's
ability to generate its own buds rather than just feed the grafted
Suckers tend to generate from the same spot over & over. Sometimes i
possible to literally cut that spot out of the rootcrown. Obviousl
can't be done if it is suckering in several places & cutting into th
would girdle & serioiusly damage or kill the tree. But if it suckers
continuously from one sput, get a good pruning book out of the librar
you can see drawings of how to cut or core a healable portion out o
base of the tree.
If you're not speaking of a grafted hazel but a wild specimen, ther
even less to be done about some wild hazels' desire to be big
multi-trunked shrubs rather than upright trees, as the tree form i
natural. You just have to keep training it until it is quite big aroun
the main trunk begins to dominate the roots' ability to do more than
sustain the main tree.
-paghat the ratgirl
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