Does Frost Damage Kill Tomato Plants?

Hello All
My tomato plants were about 6" inches tall when about 10 days ago a frost killed all their foliage down to the ground. I was ready to purchase new plants, but noticed that the base of the frost-bitten plants are sending up new foliage.
Will these plants recover enough to bear fruit, or should I just replace them with new plants? And even if they are able to recover, are they now too far behind? I'm assuming it will take them a while just to get back to the 6" height they were at before the frost. . Thanks in advance for any advice you may have.
Kenn
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
That they have sprouted indicates that at least one pair of axils had been buried. Reduce the shoots to a single stem and if the weather is kind and suitable you will not have lost much time. They are cheap to replace so why not buy anew and retain the old ones out of curiosity? Regards Brian.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 10 May 2004 15:12:55 +0000, kc wrote:

Tomatoes are not frost tolerant plants. Replant.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
kc wrote:

williamelfy ----------------------------------------------------------------------- posted via www.GardenBanter.co.uk
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

pays to enclose your tomato cages with 3 mm clear plastic taped together with duct tape, leaving the top and bottom open. Leave some extra plastic on the top of the cage, so that the top can be closed when frost or a cold spell is predicted. I usually push the last frost free date by at least two weeks doing this. As an added bonus the plastic works in much the same order as a greenhouse and almost doubles growth rate.
As for the frozen plants, the ones regrowing would probably survive and produce tomatoes but would be later. It would be logical to purchase new plants and replace the frozen plants.
John
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks to all of you for the advice. I will replant based on your recommendations. I had planned on replanting in the first place, but was surprised to see the plants still growing, hence my question.
Also, B & J, thanks for the "pushing the season" tip. I will try that next year.
Kenn

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
kc wrote:

Depends on where you live for replanting and how long they have been in the ground. If it were here, Zone 6, I'd leave them in if they had been there for more than two weeks. To help them along, there is always the plastic gallon jug of milk with the bottom cut out and placed on top of the plant to increase temperature of air and soil around the plant. You can screw on the top if it gets cool at night to keep in some heat.
As far as the plastic around the cage, that is a good idea for the next stage after they outgrow the jug. I use clip on clothes pins which is easier than fighting tape to hold plastic in place.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Doing the whole process when you plant initially saves time later. I usually plant about eight 4" - 5" plants, which I started about a month earlier. I have an equal number of 25" in diameter concrete reinforcing wire cages, which I've earlier wrapped with the plastic and secured with four strips of duct tape. After adding gypsum, compost, and a sprinkling of 13-13-13 to the soil, I mix it together with my Mantis. I dig eight spaced holes in two 4' x 12' raised bed, two in the front and two in the rear. I add a tbsp. of epsom salts to the bottom of each hole and work it in. I then put in the plants, water them in, and put down a straw mulch around each plant. I then drive in two metal posts that fit inside the cages to keep them from blowing over in a wind. I then place soaker hoses around the beds, cover them with mulch, both straw and shredded oak leaves, and place the cage over the stakes and tomatoes. I leave the plastic around the cages until the plants are 2/3 to 3/4 of the way to the top of the cage or the weather becomes hot. That keeps the plants inside the cage. About every two to three weeks, I pour some balanced soluble fertilizer around the roots. The tomato yield is fantastic.
I guess the sincerest form of flattery came this spring when a gardening neighbor followed exactly the same procedure when he put in his tomatoes, which I had started.
John
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Cover em at night with 5 gallon joint compound buckets and a rock if you think it's gonna be below about 45F If you are still getting frosts and your season is real short you might want to add a few new plants. Remember to take the buckets off in the morning so they don't cook.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.