There is constant debate as to treat or not treat a wound. On the Gulf
Coast I have seen wound paint to be very effective, particularly with our
high heat and humidity.. I would like to see a shot at 90 degrees to the
wound picture to see the side of the cut, you may want to trim the leave a
little bit for better healing. In any event, if the cut has been open as it
appears to be from the split in the bark, treatment is late.
I would trim the cut back so there is no protruding "point', making the cut
more or less in line with the remaining stem.
Hard to tell about the center crack and dark wood, I am not familiar with
the species, so on a guess, no, should not be a problem, but, would not hurt
to treat with wound paint after the trim. Many species may have an internal
crack like that from stress, wind, snow, etc.
I agree with your last sentence. Trees with such steep crotch systems
almost always have problems with checking and it looks like this
particular split led to what appears to be necrotic tissue. I
wouldn't dress this wound. However, either way, you may still lose
the tree. I say plant another tree, better tree, near it so when it
does decline you will have already replaced it.
When the tree first puts out foliage, how does it look? Do leaves
stem out all along the limbs or is there a good canopy?
First trees do not heal wounds they seal wounds, sometimes. Wound dressing
idea will never go away. They want you to believe all you have to do is
paint it black and you can do anything to a tree. As if it was a
forgiveness of sin. It don't work that way.
also ISA publication:
Is there such an item or should there be? I have always been in the
don't dress wounds camp but -
http://na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/misc/woundedtrees/treat.htm says: "apply
wound dressing if desired and suggests using it to prevent oak wilt
disease from untreated wounds on oak trees."
"Wound dressings do not stop decay or prevent entrance of decay
mechanisms. Covering wounds with sealants inhibits oxidative
processes,which in turn will reduce callus formation and
compartmentalization. For these reasons, applying wound dressings is not
And http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/3000/3045.html While suggesting
that dressings are not needed. says: "A light application of tree wound
dressing does indicate that someone attended to the problem and may make
a pruning job look better or more professional."
To the OP, this is a tough spot to cut and expect the tree to callous
properly. I think, in this case, the collar has been compromised and the
proper finish cut would not be done with a chainsaw. I maintain that if
you are in the USA, then cut it down as it is ecologically disastrous.
HTH -_- how
All I asked was is this product (polyphenolic dressing) available,
thinking it was some sort of plastic coating.
While it would be a plastic it apparently is one that requires heat to
cure and not practical in this situation.
I bit on this because of my lack of understanding of plastics and the
fact that the US Forestry Service while not
advocating wound dressings in general does require them in the case of
oak trees to keep a certain wilt at bay.
BTW the link posted was not correct, this one is, go to #10 "Prevention
So, if you were fishing for an uninformed chemist you got one. If not
L8R -_- how
My presumption that the "wound dressing" isn't for the recovery of the
tree but rather to block a potential site of infection. Lacking an
infectious vector that could utilize a wound, I would leave it alone.
The second picture you have included bark on that stub. The first target
would be as close to the trunk as you can get without injuring the trunk or
parent stem. Some companies for aesthetics reasons dig down carefully to
the bottom or the crack. Would dressing will not help this situation.
proper mulching would help the tree recover from the would dramatically
compared to the wound dressing with a value of -1%. I would recommend an
application of microelements with nitrogen as close to zero as possible. We
mulch with 3 -4 year old tree trimmings. Highest quality except for our
Mericle Mulch which we are taking orders for next year now. Mericle mulch
would be quareenteed composted wood chips and leaves fro a specific species.
E.g, Pin oak for pin oak. White pine, Hemlock and beech for the like. We
keep it back at least 6" from the trunk or trunk flare of the tree. No more
than 3-4" an thick. do read the following information for details on things
like why you should not dig up the grass. I would fertilize this trees in
addition to the mulch with a highest quality formulation or solution we have
which has all of the micro-elements in it and some bio-stimulators. This
treatment plan can make a big or shall I say huge difference in your trees
vitality. That's the way to help the tree. "Treat the system, not just the
wound (Dr. Alex L. Shigo).
Fertilization (See A Touch of Chemistry)
Troubles in the Rhizosphere
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Tree Biologist
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.
Some people will buy products they do not understand and not buy books that
will give them understanding.
You're fighting the wrong problem. If you do nothing you're still going to
have a noxious weed that is not an asset in your landscape and ought to be
eliminated (unless you're living in Australia). Florida is trying to remove
all carrotwood trees because of their impact.
The U. of Fl. says: "Carrotwood has been listed . . . as one of Florida's
most invasive plant species since 1995 and was added to the Florida Noxious
Weed List . . . in 1999. [These plants] may not be introduced, possessed,
moved, or released without a permit."
Quit trying to save it -- replace it with a better species. There are a lot
of better trees out there.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/AG111 will tell you how to remove it and offer
suggestions for trees to replace it. The Gumbo Limbo, hollies, Tabebuia and
others on their list are much more attractive than this pest plant.
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