from email@example.com contains these words:
It would be good if he did, but the last thing a new arrival to any
rural area should do, is start trying to suggest to the resident farmers
that you know how they should run their business. Nothing could be more
calculated to put his back up, just when you want him to be your friend,
and let you know (minimum) what times of year he sprays and (best for
you) get to the point where he calls on the phone to say "I'll be
spraying tomorrow if it's not too windy".
In answer to your other question; I don't know. It's something you
could ask him. Bear in mind chemical spraying costs him money so no
sensible farmer is likely to use more than he needs, or on a day when
it will blow around and miss the target.
especially if he's going to be telling the farmer that RoundUp
is a pesticide... nothing like making yourself look *really*
ignorant when confronting a farmer about his spraying
for the most part no one is going to be spraying if it's
likely to wind drift (too expensive/wasteful) anyway, but i
can't say i know much about canola...
technically you are correct and that is why the NCDA & CS uses
the term on the license they issue to anyone passing their
in the reality of the application one would not apply a herbicide
in order to kill insects. therefore classifications and categories
are established so as to make labeling clear for specific use
<shrug> i like being a little more precise. if my (ought-to-
return-to-the-city) neighbor came over & asked me not to put
pesticide on the poison ivy, i'd agree with him. i'd still be
putting RoundUp on it though...
you most likely read the thread. my blood boiled then I
felt much better when I read what Janet wrote. yep, I was
glad I saw what Janet wrote.
in the past you yourself have written of your experiences
with newcomers and oh how I could relate.
I hope Ann in Zone 6a will elaborate on her words "unsustainability
of the pesticides" because I believe she actually understands.
on tomorrow's list or outline of things to be considered or done
1. arrive at job site
2. remove storm windows carefully so they don't fall apart
3. scrape surfaces with wire brush
4. scrape surfaces again with metal edge scraper
5. inspect window glazing and repair as necessary
6. obtain color samples from customer and confirm color selection
7. go to paint store
8. stop by coffee shop :)
9. go to hardware store to get tubes of caulk and a better caulk gun
i doubt sincerely my use of glyphosphate, as method of last
resort, against poison ivy (to which i have a violent allergy,
plus the 'remedies' for said allergy give me hives worse than
the PI) is going to affect your grandchildren. i do not spray
the stuff (wasteful, ineffective). i cut the vines & paint the
open wound. doesn't even faze the other weeds at the base of
the tree. does a good job of killing the evil vines though.
just cutting the vine kills the upper portion, but PI regrows
readily from the roots. painting glyphosphate on the cut kills
the roots. i do agree that spraying glyphosphate is a bad
thing, and spraying PI doesn't do anything toward killing the
stuff unless you get a windless, dry week in very early spring
as the leaves are just budding (which never happens around
if you can prove to me that this method is causing
glyphosphate drift into the soil/water, i'll look into another
method. as it stands now though, the PI has to go, & this is
the best option i can find.
on the tactical application of CBW agents. My favorite is Ortho Brush-B-Gon
(Triclopyr) applied in early Spring about the time that the multiflora rose
begins to leaf out. One targeted application on the PI, MFR, and other assorted
jagger bushes does them in. I still have to avoid the dead vines because the
urushiol retains its capability to cause pain and distress (as do the jaggers).
Global War On Poison Ivy
Anything with thorns
Those who can make you believe absurdities
can make you commit atrocities -- Voltaire
Glyphosate takes a variable amount of time to break down, depending
mostly on temperature, but it binds immediately with any clay particles
it comes into contact with, which inactivates it. The antidote for
accidental glyphosate ingestion is Kaopectate, which contains kaolin
clay. Even a slight murkiness in the water used to mix the spray will
reduce or eliminate the effectiveness of glyphosate. Essentially, once
it hits the ground, it's dead. It does not transport through the soil
by water motion.
It is not legal to machine apply glyphosate within 50 feet of open
water. Using a hand sprayer, you can get within 10 feet.
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On Mon, 01 Oct 2007 20:51:26 -0700, Larry Caldwell wrote:
Not exactly. I've been fresh cut stump treating with Roundup for three
years, mostly multiflora rose and Autumn Olive. I cut them off close to
the ground and also use a paint scraper to scarify exposed roots, then
brush on the Roundup. By the time I get to the end of a batch, I've
carried enough soil into the container with the brush that the solution is
seriously "murky", with some soil settled out on the bottom. I was
concerned about this at first, but found it still was effective. So, while
the glyphosate may have been adsorbed onto the surface of soil particles,
it was not inactivated.
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