what causes cracked shoulders on tomatoes ?

Gentle people,

I live in South Texas. And and still growing tomatoes in December. No frost yet. My problem is, though the tomatoes are growing slowly, the ones that are getting ripe, have developed cracks in the shoulders, the stem end.

When I cut into the tomatoes, there is Blac krot partially down the center. As the soil here in Galveston County, is very poor, I grow the tomatoes in containers in miracle grow. Daytime temperatures are in the 70s to 80s, and nighttime temperatures have gone down to the 40s. I have searched the web but have been unable to find a picture. It looks a lot like blossom end rot, but on the stem end. any help would be appreciated. Thank you Jerry 77539 @yahoo.com

Reply to
Jerry Minasi
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Tomatoes like constant growing conditions so it can be as simple as the changing growing conditions of the plant in the Fall... shorter periods of daylight...periods of cooler weather followed by more warm weather...moisture changes etc. There are a few plant diseases that can also crack the fruit.

Lar

Reply to
Lar

With me it's the rain. Then the nearly ripe tomatoes crack in direct proportion to the amount of rain.

Reply to
Billy

Too much water usually?

Reply to
Omelet

Thanks, All. I think I started the seedlings a little too late. I started them in July. My first crop, I started last February. They were very successful! Some of my plants grew over 8 1/2' tall. My cages were only 6 feet tall. When they started to set tomatoes above the cages, I had to crop them. I grew heirloom tomatoes... Brandywine, and some specialty tomatoes for hot weather. Also early girl, celebrity and some cherry tomatoes. next year, I'll start my seeds in late January. I order my seeds from: tomato growers supply company, in Florida. They have a website and list about 150 brands of tomatoes. Again, thanks all who replied. And good luck to all of you next year. Jerry Mandinasi

Reply to
Jerry Minasi

To all who answered my "split shoulder tomatoes" problem. This year, I started my seedlings in late February. And I had a very successful crop. I had six-foot high tomato cages and by July, the plants were growing above the cages! I had to crop the plants because if I set tomatoes above the cages, the stems would break. I grew Brandywine tomatoes, both regular and potato leaf, of course, early girl, always a winner, cherry tomatoes, San Marzano, and a couple of hot weather tolerant tomatoes: BHN 444 Hybrid, and Sunmaster.

Next year, 2008, I'll start my first seeds in late January. The second crop, I'll start in early July.

I get my seeds from: Tomato Growers Supply company, in Florida. Their catalog must have 150 different categories of tomatoes. Again, thanks to all and I wish you great luck in 2008.

Jerry Minasi

Reply to
Jerry Minasi

To all who answered my "split shoulder tomatoes" problem. This year, I started my seedlings in late February. And I had a very successful crop. I had six-foot high tomato cages and by July, the plants were growing above the cages! I had to crop the plants because if I set tomatoes above the cages, the stems would break. I grew Brandywine tomatoes, both regular and potato leaf, of course, early girl, always a winner, cherry tomatoes, San Marzano, and a couple of hot weather tolerant tomatoes: BHN 444 Hybrid, and Sunmaster.

Next year, 2008, I'll start my first seeds in late January. The second crop, I'll start in early July.

I get my seeds from: Tomato Growers Supply company, in Florida. Their catalog must have 150 different categories of tomatoes. Again, thanks to all and I wish you great luck in 2008.

Jerry Minasi

Reply to
Jerry Minasi

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