No matter where you live.
Think how the heck did the Hopi grow corn in a such a place ? As my faulty memory recalls. They hilled small hills of corn on one side to provide a wind break. This also enabled dew to collect and nurture.
"Book of the Hopi" a great read some time.
Not a simple idea but a challenging one.
Have Fun!
Bill
Like many .sigs, this may SOUND good, but is actually simplistic.
Where did TR think that "man who actually does the work" got his ideas? In most cases, from the "man who [only] talks or writes about how it ought to be done.
Not to denigrate the classic innovative "Yankee" tinkerer; the man on the job has often found the jig, or fix to make it work, where management was too far removed from the project.
But TR's blustering statement throws out in one fell swoop the whole of theory.
The theorist who appears to be staring out the window for hours or days on end is the one who was thinking out of the box -- the one who changed history.
I suspect TR may have been talking about an idle or unproductive critic, but his statement was poorly worded in that it appeared to indict the "revolutionary" theorist. Did TR ever think about how the theory of the speed of light, e.g. came to Einstein -- as a "thought experiment". Volumes of other examples exist.
A little humility, please, TR!
Persephone
I want to improve my garden. I need to protect it from the brutal winds we have here sometimes, and I would like to shade a portion of it. I am going to build a framework similar to those at plant nurseries. I would also like to make raised beds to make it easier to access everything.
I was wondering about the water system. I would like to have some sprayers from the ceiling, as I see this reduces temperatures, and soaks everything as from a natural rain. Is this a good idea? Should I have the water coming in from the top, plus some coming in pipes in the ground? My garden is getting irrigated spotty right now because the pipes flow into trenches, and then gravity takes it to the plants. The plants at the top of the ditch get more water, and if something interrupts the flow, the plants at the end don't get hardly any water. I want to make an even distribution system so that they all get a proper amount of water. I would like it all to come down from above so that when the water is shut off, it drains out, making it less likely to freeze come cold weather.
Ideas and experiences appreciated.
Steve
Thank you for proving my point.
Now, do you actually have ANYTHING to say about the question?
Steve
Wot question? Should you listen to a back seat driver? Only if you want to stay alive, would be my take.
Now, did you actually understand ANYTHING about the role of theorists in advancing the human condition?
This is not a poster worth debating.
Persephone
Sounds good
Overhead spraying uses up more water than ground level watering due to evaporative loss. With frequent use it can also encourage fungi by leaving the leaves wet, raising humidity and bringing up spores from the ground if it squirts that far.
However some types of plants will do much better with raised humidity and the coolness produced by the evaporative loss - provided you can afford the water and other possible consequences.
I know of a rainforest maintained in a gully by spraying at intervals round the clock in a climate that gets about 25 in per year of rain and would never support such a thing naturally.
You have to decide on how much you want to grow according to your climate and how much you want to create a microclimate.
Should I have the water
Drippers or "leaky" hoses will do this and conserve water too.
I would like it all to come
Cannot comment due to lack of experience with gardens freezing.
David
Ad hominem...
[...]Ad hominem...
Persephone
Charlie wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
oh! so that's why the llama beans work so well on the peas... lee
For gourd shaped varieties, ie. butternut, one needs use one of each, approximating the general shape of the squash.
As Lee points out, sometimes one can also match eggs from other animals to the size of the crop being shat upon.
HTH Charlie
Of course! Rabbit beans work well for peas also, as well as for current tomatoes and other small round fruit.
Charlie
Sorry, I should have added that water is terribly expensive here. We are AG
1 zoning, and the water bill is a flat $100 a year with no meter for a 1 1/4" line.Steve ;-)
"phorbin" wrote
Noted, and Mr./Ms./Mrs. Pheremone is now in the round file.
Steve
A typical vice of American politics is the avoidance of saying anything real on real issues. Theodore Roosevelt
"...for this relief, much thanks."
Hamlet, act 1, sc. 1, l. 8-10.
snip...
Today's assignment:
I feel that statement "It is not OK to attack people personally" is wrong!!!!! To restrict ones' speech in any way is bad. One should have the right to call another: stupid, idiot, fat, ugly or any other derogative or negative term. Most insulting words are defined by the person stating it. Restricting free speech in my book - will do more harm in any society than good. Teachers should have right to say, "You stupid idiot - go back and do it right!" I believe insults help build mental calluses for a stronger mind. People who are offended by statements are just simply weak minded. Free speech should include cussing in public as well.
In my book, people do not have the right to state lies about a person or in which people are directly physically harmed by speech (Like FIRE when there is no fire).
If one does run into a week minded person, one should learn to "duck" or "run like a rabbit" when insulting them. If it is being suggested that "It is not OK to attack people personally" in physical way ... I agree :)
Just for the record, I am attacking the stupid chick's IDEA about free speech, not the stupid chick herself :)
Enjoy Life ... Dan
A person who cannot defend his ideas without resorting to insults and "cussing" is far more weak minded than any individual who takes exception to being insulted.
Indeed; why did I think this to be a NG about gardening?
I'm not looking for a debate with the illuminati. I just wanted some gardening advice regarding boards. You know ........ wood ......... lumber ..........
No? ................
sigh ......................
Steve
I grow veggies in raised community beds and in containers in western peninsular Florida, USDA zone 9, poor sandy native soil. I have come to prefer containers and have begun gradually migrating amended garden soil from the beds as containers become available. Your experience may differ but, in this sandy Florida "blackjack" soil, I have found raised beds to be far more conservative of resources than in-ground gardening. In the beds I practice sort of hybrid "wide row" and "square foot" gardening: Crowd the plants slightly but enough to keep the understorey well-shaded and provide cages, fences, trellises, etc. for those that have even the least propensity to climb. Provide watering stations for wasps and other predatory insects AWA perches for dragonflies. Under taller plants -- okra and eggplant, for example -- I always underplant a "living mulch". Most often I use peanuts because they thrive in the Southeastern U.S.A. and their nitrogen-fixation, doesn't kick in until fairly late in the game, after most plants' sensitivity to excess N has passed.
For many years, I did pretty well using simple flooding but have realised many advantages from using those weeping soaker hoses that are manufactured from reclaimed tires. From the brand that is available to me, using the specific length that I do, I receive a nominal .75gpm flow at nominal 25psi. In each 24 sq' bed, I use two 25' hoses connected to a garden hose via a simple manifold and regulated with an off-the-shelf drip system regulator ($11 at Lowe's). Works well: No runoff; no significant evaporative loss. The regulator allows the use of elapsed time to measure total water delivered, instead of counting pump cylcles
-- not a particularly accurate method. Soaker or drip irrigation, wide-row planting, underplantings and mulch combine to minimize evaporative losses, important in this climate.
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