You don't have to do bugger-all to make it work. All that scientific
stuff will get you efficiency improvements. Depending on a lot of
things those improvements may be small or large. Start simple and
figure out what could be better based on experience.
I just use wire mesh "bins" which I turn no more often than monthly. In
my cool dry climate it takes a season to produce good compost. I've got
the time and the space, so...
A L B E R T A Alfred Falk firstname.lastname@example.org
I would not use anything except chicken wire to line the boxes. You
do need some air circulation.
Other than that- you don't need to do anything except start adding
compostable material. The beauty of compost is that it works all on
its own. Sure, if it gets really dry you can hose it down a little.
You can add stuff in distinct layers (kitchen scraps/grass/soil for
example) and you might speed things up a bit. But none of that is
necessary. Um, you mentioned pallets- are they solid on the bottom?
Will it be impossible for worms to migrate into the compost? If so,
you might want to put some soil with worms on the bottom to start.
To answer some of your questions:
You want to have a natural air flow through the pile, so don't line it
Most important is to keep the pile moist. Dry piles don't go anywhere.
Certain things can add to the speed of the processing. One of these is
to chop up everything as fine as you can. I take leaves and grass that
have been run through a lawn mower. Straight whole leaves tend to pack
together and slow things down. You can add an accelerant, like some
fertilizer, but it is not absolutely necessary. I try to alternate the
layers of the pile with green (i.e. grass) and brown (leaves). Turn the
pile ( I try and do this at least once a season ) putting the dry
unprocessed material on the bottom and the dark processed matter, on
top. Water tends to settle to the bottom and that's where you want to
assist the parts of the pile that are not quite cooked yet.
Composting obviously doesn't have to complex or difficult. That being said,
there is an excellent work on composting available on the web at:
I just scored a copy of the original "Let it rot" in a homesteading
lot I bought last week but haven't had a chance to thumb thru it yet.
I need some help with a fairly large vermicomposting bin design to
process rabbitry waste, preserve the "liquid gold", and not kill my
Anyone have any ideas?
I was at a rabbit farm once that built the composting "bins" out of wood
right under the rabbit cages, and stocked them with worms. The worms did
not look that healthy tho', kinda pale and slender.
That might work if it was managed properly to keep it from becoming too
All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing.
I;ve seen those, but I'm redesigning my barn to have the rabbits on
the second floor and sliding the waste out of a drain to the bins
outside. Most of the acidic urine will be washed out before making
it to the bins, and they tend to stay away from the "hot corner"
I'm kind of thinking of something modular like the "can o worms"
thing, only on a much larger scale.
I'd like it to be modular in design so that I could capture all of
that lovely "liquid gold" the worm also produce. A little bit of
that on the plants and they become very very happy.
I'd also like to easily remove a section of compost without killing my
back, and allow stacking new modules as needed, just like the can o
I currently basically just use the manure straight or diluted as
manure tea, but I'd like the worms to refine it further for me.
but apparently not zucchini. I can only presume that the pH of the
coffee grounds was to low. The zucks wilted in the late morning
light.They are recovering now but aren't happy campers. I put the
grounds right where the stem comes out of the ground. I've put
coffee grounds in the lettuce patch in the past, with no reaction.
Just to see, I put some garbage with a little water into a plastic pail with
lid and left it out in the sun. What I wound up with was a pail of rotting
garbage that eventually started breeding crop destroying worms!
I finally doused the whole mess with Malathion and dumped it a dumpster.
Nah, I just pile everything in to a wire mesh frame until its over full,
leave it until it drops to about half full, spread it on the garden. Works
for me see;
This one is about 8 ft square and has now been filled way over the top of
the frame, and is now well on its way back down again all by itself. The
other one is about quarter full, should take another 18 months to completely
fill it. the only other thing I do is cover the full one with and old bit
of carpet. I lifted a corner last weekend and there were loads of little red
worms working away under it.
Yea I know, I even take pictures of the compost heap, if you rummage around
you will even find the second one half empty.
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