Ants


I have been veggie gardening for about 4 years now and I have never in my life encountered so many ants in my life but the majority of them seem to just LOVE my garden. I have the regular black ants that I have known as a child and I know they are good for aerating the soil so I have left them alone. They made a mound big enough to rid a small portion of my spinach last spring but they weren't that much of a nucience (sp?).
My problem is with all these tiny black and red ants. They are fast and they are PLENTIFUL and they BITE if you aren't paying attention. I'm honestly afraid to go out and weed half the time because I don't want these little suckers on me. I have this section of my garden where I'm growing black eyed peas, cucumbers and hyacinth beans. They are, for the most part, shaded because the sun will burn them to a crisp otherwise. Anyway, the ants crawl all over the plants. The peas are the only plants I'm getting a harvest from. The others will flower but never develop so I wonder if this just because of the hot weather in Phoenix or a result of the ants. The cucumber plants are starting to look yellow and I see holes in a few leaves. Also, it just seems there are parts of the plant that is bunched up that don't want to grow out and I see tons of ants on them in those parts.
I found a couple preying mantis and put them in the garden but I don't think even they could have a big enough appetite for all these ants! LOL
I'm sure these tiny ants help with the soil too and perhaps the plants but they almost seem a hindrance when they bite and crawl over all the plants I have.
Perhaps there are some other plants to put there that attract the ants so they aren't on my veggies so much? I have some nasturtium in that area but they haven't flowered, they probably have too much shade.
Any experience or advice would be appreciated. :) Sorry for the long post.
-- Lisa Phoenix, AZ snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com MSN - snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com Yahoo - lisajgehl
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Amdro.
It'll cure all your ills. ;-)
I let my plethora of earthworms aerate my soil... I don't need to freekin ants! <lol>
K.
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LOL :) Yeah, we've used that in other areas of the yard and seems to rid of the little suckers in a snap. I'm just afraid of using this around my veggies. Plus I don't know how many earthworms we have in our Phoenix soil.
-- Lisa Phoenix, AZ snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com MSN - snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com Yahoo - lisajgehl
wrote:<BR><BR>&gt; I have been veggie gardening for about 4 years now and I have never in my <BR>&gt; life encountered so many ants in my life but the majority of them seem to <BR>&gt; just LOVE my garden. I have the regular black ants that I have known as a <BR>&gt; child and I know they are good for aerating the soil so I have left them <BR>&gt; alone. They made a mound big enough to rid a small portion of my spinach last <BR>&gt; spring but they weren't that much of a nucience (sp?).<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; My problem is with all these tiny black and red ants. They are fast and they <BR>&gt; are PLENTIFUL and they BITE if you aren't paying attention. I'm honestly <BR>&gt; afraid to go out and weed half the time because I don't want these little <BR>&gt; suckers on me. I have this section of my garden where I'm growing black eyed <BR>&gt; peas, cucumbers and hyacinth beans. They are, for the most part, shaded <BR>&gt; because the sun will burn them to a crisp otherwise. Anyway, the ants crawl <BR>&gt; all over the plants. The peas are the only plants I'm getting a harvest from. <BR>&gt; The others will flower but never develop so I wonder if this just because of <BR>&gt; the hot weather in Phoenix or a result of the ants. The cucumber plants are <BR>&gt; starting to look yellow and I see holes in a few leaves. Also, it just seems <BR>&gt; there are parts of the plant that is bunched up that don't want to grow out <BR>&gt; and I see tons of ants on them in those parts. <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; I found a couple preying mantis and put them in the garden but I don't think <BR>&gt; even they could have a big enough appetite for all these ants! LOL<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; I'm sure these tiny ants help with the soil too and perhaps the plants but <BR>&gt; they almost seem a hindrance when they bite and crawl over all the plants I <BR>&gt; have. <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; Perhaps there are some other plants to put there that attract the ants so <BR>&gt; they aren't on my veggies so much? I have some nasturtium in that area but <BR>&gt; they haven't flowered, they probably have too much shade.<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; Any experience or advice would be appreciated. :) Sorry for the long post.<BR><BR><BR>Amdro.<BR><BR>It'll cure all your ills. ;-)<BR><BR>I let my plethora of earthworms aerate my soil... <BR>I don't need to freekin ants! &lt;lol&gt;<BR><BR>K.<BR><BR>-- <BR>Sprout the Mung Bean to reply...<BR><BR>&gt;,,&lt;Cat's Haven Hobby Farm&gt;,,&lt;Katraatcenturyteldotnet&gt;,,&lt;<BR><BR><A href="http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&amp ;include=0&amp;userid=katra">http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&amp ;include=0&amp;userid=katra</A></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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Have you spotted any worm castings? We have them _everywhere_ in the yard! I can't hardly turn over a rock when the soil is wet without disturbing earthworms! You can also purchase composting worms by the thousands fairly cheaply.
Kat
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Amdro!? Not! It sounds like you have what we here in Texas call "fire ants". Very aggressive and yes they bite. Not sure if you are aware of Howard Garrett's website ( www.dirtdoctor.com) and I am not affiliated...but he has thousands of listeners who give him feedback on a variety of insect repellents. We're fortunate here in North Texas to have the largest organic marketplace in the United States to obtain products from. Fire ants will not tolerate dried molasses. I've had them in my garden, and sprinkling the molasses on the mound makes them split, post haste. Dried molasses will immediately increase the biological activity in your soil (a VERY good thing in and of itself) and it creates a situation that the ants hate. Give it a try. you might enjoy listening to Howard's radio program on the internet. You can call in and ask him questions at no charge to you through their 1-800 number. WBAP-AM on Sunday mornings 8:00am-12 central time. Good luck! Tom
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Well, in my defense, Amdro has been reliable for killing them, not just driving them off... but I, too, am reluctant to use it directly in the garden beds. I may treat around the yard as the ants wander and will take it back to the mounds. Fire ants are just SO bad!
Does the dried molasses just drive them off or does it kill them? Just moving the mound is not good enough. :-(
There is a hormonal treatment also that is not a poison but will also kill the mound in about 2 weeks. That is excellent for long term control if the ants are not in a critical pathway. It's called "Logic" and is not a pesticide.
K.
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They just hate the molasses and they move. It does not kill them.
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That's what I was afraid of. ;-)
Sorry, but fire ants must DIE!
K.
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LOL, yeah that's exactly what I say after they bite!
Thank you, Thomas, for the info. I will definitely check it out. :) Much appreciated to both of you.
-- Lisa Phoenix, AZ snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com MSN - snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com Yahoo - lisajgehl
wrote:<BR>&gt; &gt;<BR>&gt; &gt; &gt; Amdro!?&nbsp; Not!&nbsp; It sounds like you have what we here in Texas call "fire<BR>&gt; &gt; &gt; ants".&nbsp; Very aggressive and yes they bite.&nbsp; Not sure if you are aware of<BR>&gt; &gt; &gt; Howard Garrett's website ( <A href="http://www.dirtdoctor.com ">www.dirtdoctor.com</A>)<BR>&gt; &gt; &gt;&nbsp; and I am not affiliated...but he has thousands of listeners who give<BR>&gt; him<BR>&gt; &gt; &gt; feedback on a variety of insect repellents.&nbsp; We're fortunate here in<BR>&gt; North<BR>&gt; &gt; &gt; Texas to have the largest organic marketplace in the United States to<BR>&gt; obtain<BR>&gt; &gt; &gt; products from.&nbsp; Fire ants will not tolerate dried molasses.&nbsp; I've had<BR>&gt; them<BR>&gt; &gt; &gt; in my garden, and sprinkling the molasses on the mound makes them split,<BR>&gt; &gt; &gt; post haste.&nbsp; Dried molasses will immediately increase the biological<BR>&gt; &gt; &gt; activity in your soil (a VERY good thing in and of itself) and it<BR>&gt; creates a<BR>&gt; &gt; &gt; situation that the ants hate.&nbsp; Give it a try.&nbsp; you might enjoy listening<BR>&gt; to<BR>&gt; &gt; &gt; Howard's radio program on the internet.&nbsp; You can call in and ask him<BR>&gt; &gt; &gt; questions at no charge to you through their 1-800 number.&nbsp; WBAP-AM on<BR>&gt; Sunday<BR>&gt; &gt; &gt; mornings 8:00am-12&nbsp; central time.<BR>&gt; &gt; &gt; Good luck!<BR>&gt; &gt; &gt; Tom<BR>&gt; &gt;<BR>&gt; &gt;<BR>&gt; &gt; Well, in&nbsp; my defense, Amdro has been reliable for killing them, not just<BR>&gt; &gt; driving them off... but I, too, am reluctant to use it directly in the<BR>&gt; &gt; garden beds. I may treat around the yard as the ants wander and will<BR>&gt; &gt; take it back to the mounds. Fire ants are just SO bad!<BR>&gt; &gt;<BR>&gt; &gt; Does the dried molasses just drive them off or does it kill them?<BR>&gt; &gt; Just moving the mound is not good enough. :-(<BR>&gt; &gt;<BR>&gt; &gt; There is a hormonal treatment also that is not a poison but will also<BR>&gt; &gt; kill the mound in about 2 weeks. That is excellent for long term control<BR>&gt; &gt; if the ants are not in a critical pathway. It's called "Logic" and is<BR>&gt; &gt; not a pesticide.<BR>&gt; &gt;<BR>&gt; &gt; K.<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; They just hate the molasses and they move.&nbsp; It does not kill them.<BR><BR>That's what I was afraid of. ;-)<BR><BR>Sorry, but fire ants must DIE!<BR><BR>K.<BR><BR>-- <BR>Sprout the Mung Bean to reply...<BR><BR>&gt;,,&lt;Cat's Haven Hobby Farm&gt;,,&lt;Katraatcenturyteldotnet&gt;,,&lt;<BR><BR><A href="http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&amp ;include=0&amp;userid=katra">http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&amp ;include=0&amp;userid=katra</A></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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