I am in the UK and would like to ask some questions about glues.
Does anyone know what category or type of adhesive is Unibond's NO MORE
NAILS sold for general purpose home use?
Does anyone have an ingredients list for this adhesive?
Is NO MORE NAILS stronger for woodwork jobs than that white or yellow
runny woodworking adhesive which I believe is some sort of PVA adhesive
that dries off to leave a hard resin.
Does NO MORE NAILS form a stronger bond to the materials being glued
than Araldite? Can NO MORE NAILS be heated to a greater temp than
Araldite (which I believe weakens at 70 C)?
Ask the manufacturer for 1) an MSDS 2) technical data comparing NMN's
to PVA woodglue and 3) the upper working temperature for the adhesive.
They will give you far better answers than anything that these forums
Aspen Research, - www.aspenresearch.com
"Turning Questions into Answers"
Opinions expressed herein are my own and may not represent those of my
its better where there are gaps..bit any CLOSE fitting glue joint is
somewhat stronger than the wood by and large.
MM. Araldite will go higher than that if well mixed and heat cured.
With a slow setting epoxy like that, heating the mixture to about 70C
while mixing ensures a very good strength, and heating it to that sort
of temp while it dries seems to make it set harder.
Epoxys have a 'gel' temperature.
When they set firstly, they have a fraction of unreacted liquid, that's
bound in place by the matrix of already set chains.
A small fraction of this will set at room temperature.
When you heat this up to a certain level, the epoxy gets 'rubbery', and
heated a bit more may substantially weaken it.
However, at this time, the ends of the unreacted liquid molecules are
wiggling around due to the heat, and meeting their opposite numbers, and
rapidly setting more completely.
Heating an epoxy much over the temperature it has been set at will
always do this, but as less and less of the liquid remains at high
temperatures, the effect is dramatically less.
The solvent-free flavours of adhesive are acrylate based.
I'm a great fan of Gripfill and it's now many years since I used No
More Nails, so my reply relates to Gripfill, but I expect other
brnads are similar.
The (organic solvent) adhesives are synthetic rubber based, which is
why they dry slightly rubbery are cannot be sanded. I believe the
base is polychloroprene (aka neoprene) using butanone (aka methyl
ethyl ketone, MEK) + xylene as solvent. The product is bulked out by
It's the MEK + xylene which gives Gripfill its wondrous smell. I was
using it last night in the hallway - this morning the addictive (?)
smell is still lingering...
There was a recent thread here about what to use to remove such
adhesives - the answer is scrape off the bulk, then clean with MEK or
other ketone (eg acetone). But watch out for nearby plastics, or
painted / varnished surfaces!
But my chemistry (well, chemical engineering) is getting rusty lately
after years of disuse - or should that be (solvent) abuse...
Hope this helps
To email me, change the AT in the address below
I had a cracked aluminium thermostat cover off my car back in the 70s.
Smeared araldite into the crack and left it on the radiator in the
workshop for the morning. Put it back on the car at night and drove
away. Was still on the car when I got rid of it a couple of years
Gripfill, No More Nails etc are (apparently) block copolymers
I suspect normal woodworking PVA gives a stronger overall bond because it
penetrates the wood grain to a certain extent before polymerising, so the
bond has more "depth". NMN just glues the surfaces.
Polyurethane glue may be even better in a clamped joint as it expands and
gets forced into the grain before curing.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.