There's no secret.
however you should use the correct drill bit for the size of each different
Rawl plug and try not to wobble the drill whilst going into the wall, if the
hole becomes larger than the rawl plug then fill it with polyfilla and push
the Rawl plug in and wait for the PF to harden before screwing a screw in.
the hole size needs to so tight that you have to use small hammer to tap the
Rawl plug home. :-)
I understand that different coloured Rawlplugs are used with different screw
sizes and different drill sizes, but I've never found - even with a Google
search - a table showing the relationships. Does anybody have one, please?
Then I wouldn't guarantee they stick to the colour convention.
If you're not sure, simply buy some new ones which are so marked. They're
not exactly expensive. Compared to whatever falling off the wall and
bringing half the plaster down with it.
*A \'jiffy\' is an actual unit of time for 1/100th of a second.
Dave Plowman email@example.com London SW
On Mon, 18 Jul 2005 03:40:03 +0100, Barbara wrote:
This depends on the manufacturer.
Some just use one colour (often grey or brown) for their whole range.
Often the size is marked on the plug.
If they are colour coded then yellow one tend to be 5mm
red ones 6mm, brown ones 7 , orange ones 8 and green ones 10.
The 6mm is by far the most common and will be right for most
'fixing up' applications.
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Hi when you buy raw plugs, they come in a plastic strip, on the side of
the strip there is a size guide for the screws & drill size, = to the
size of the plugs you have bought, ok dead easy drill away !!
If the wall material is crumbly and you end up with an oversize hole a trick
that I use is to vacuum out the dust from the hole, fill the hole with a
quantity of hot melt glue, and then push the plug into that. Let the glue
set and bingo - a very strong fixing.
That sounds very dodgy, because HMG is soft and will creep under
mechanical load. It might not happen if the screws are pulled up tight,
so that friction prevents the bracket from sliding down the wall, but
Coming back to the OP's problem, the main possibilities seem to be:
1. You may be habitually using fixings that are too small or short for
the load. Remember that the plug needs to go some way into brick or hard
blockwork, and the screw needs to go far enough in to expand the plug
and force it to grip. The plaster is no help at all - think of it as
unwanted 'packing', that the screw and plug have to reach through before
they can do their job.
2. There may be something drastically wrong with your drilling
technique, eg you're letting the drill move around so that the holes are
always conical. Alternatively, your hammer drill may be under-powered,
which always tempts you towards problem 1.
3. Maybe you're habitually using a drill bit that is too large for the
plug. As already pointed out, the plug should be a tight enough fit to
need a light tap with the hammer to get it in. Then the screw expands
the plug and makes it grip.
4. You're using those undersized, highly tapered plugs that come with
things you've bought. Don't - they're invariably useless!
If it's either of the last two, get your own red and brown plugs, and a
set of the right-sized masonry bits. This information is moulded on the
plastic tabs to which the plugs are attached. Note that each size of
plug can need more than one size of bit, depending on the diameter of
On Mon, 18 Jul 2005 00:37:45 +0100, Peter Hucker wrote:
Make sure that a significant length of the plug is in the substrate
not the plaster. Plaster does not have any strength. The plugs and
screws generally supplied with stuff are not long enough. With 1/2" of
plaster you need at least 1 1/4" screws/plugs.
Dave. pam is missing e-mail
Depends if your walls are plasterboard or solid brick/block. Solid
brick/block you need rawlplugs and drill bit of the right size - roughly
yellow for small loads 5mm drill, red for medium 6mm drill, brown for heavy
7mm drill. As mentioned, you should need to tap the plug in with a hammer -
if not it ain't gonna hold!
Plasterboard needs a specific fixing - check you local DIY store. Wickes
have multi purpose brick/plasterboard plugs - but I've never tried them.
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