Radiator 'spur'

[John Whitworth]

As a result of our impending garage conversion, I need to remove the pipework that is feeding the conservatory radiator. The whole thing will be removed, basically. It is connected rather like a spur, from the upstairs rear bedroom, so that ignoring the extra 5m or so of feed and return pipes each way, it is effectively in parallel with the bedroom radiator. The radiator is rubbish, and doesn't really heat up enough anyway, so it's no great loss.

Anyway, the radiators are all connected with the thin plastic pipework (I guess about 1cm diameter). The pipes are all fairly flexible.

Does anyone have any idea (I want to avoid taking up the carpet until I actually do the work, as it was only laid about 6 months ago) how the parallel pipework might have been attached (i.e. what sort of components are used - T pipes?), and secondly, how I can repair the spur?

Thanks

John

[John Whitworth]

Sorry - 'repair the spur' should read 'reinstate the single route to the bedroom rad - i.e. remove the spur'.

Cheers

JW

[ARWadsworth]

John

Most CH setups have radiators in "parallel". Removing the radiator in the conservatory and fitting both pipes that supplied that radiator with end caps would normally work.

If your pipes have a 1cm diameter and made of plastic then they probably are

10mm plastic pipes:-)

Adam

[John Whitworth]

OK. Thanks. I actually need to remove the pipes though, as although they are plastic under the bedroom floor, they go out into the garage as copper, normal pipes. And they are right in the way of where a lintel is going to be raised.

But if I understand what you are saying, I should be able to terminate the the plastic pipes under the bedroom floor with no issues. Are these the end caps?

Thanks

John

[John Whitworth]

One more ignorant question. Just how high would the pressure be behind this pipe if I decided to just cut it and terminate without draining? Or is that a total no-no? Or is it possible to clamp these pipes somehow?

Ta

JW

[ARWadsworth]

The 10mm versions might be better on your pipes, but yes that is the stuff

Adam

[ARWadsworth]

On a sealed system the pressure could be up to 2 bar.

As for clamping the pipes I have no idea. Only a brave man would try a "live" connection. I have done them on gravity CH but it is still messy.

Adam

[John Whitworth]

OK - thanks - perhaps I will stick with the drainage method.

Thanks

John

[Heliotrope Smith]

Those are not blanking caps, they are blanking plugs that fit into Hep20 fittings. Unless you have fittings under the floor then you would need caps to go onto the end of the cut pipes.

If your system is pressurised then dropping the pressure to zero you could cut and cap the pipes with little or no mess.

If the system is open then you could cap/plug the vent and feed to create a vacuum before cutting the pipes.

It would not take long to drain down the top floor to do the work but you would lose any inhibitor in the system and also may have problems with air locks when refilling.

[John Whitworth]

Thanks. I can see I'm going to have to do some reading over the weekend. If it is possible to do it without draining, that would be my preference.

John

[ARWadsworth]

I forgot to say that it is always a good idea to use connectors made by the pipe manufacturer. So double check that you have Hep20 pipe first.

Adam

[John Whitworth]

Thanks Adam - I trust that it will actually be written on the pipework, rather like the BS marks on electrical cables?

JW

[ARWadsworth]

The manufacturer will have printed their name on the pipe.

And remenber to but inserts/sleeves.

Adam

[ARWadsworth]

That should say "buy inserts/sleeves"

Adam