Had a skim on the lounge walls, after removing the old skirting, but the
skim ends about 2.5 inches from the floor.
So the new skirting (3 inches high) will not go flat against the wall -
there is a 'void' behind it of 1/3 inch...
Can anyone advise if it is better to use a surface filler first, so the
skirting can be glued and nailed onto it, or just leave the gap and use
bigger blobs of glue / longer nails to reach the wall behind?
Thank you - I have put skirting on in this way in the past (using blobs of
glue and nails), but for some reason it still bothers me having the gap
behind. And come to think of it one piece fell off after being hit with a
I am just curious how a builder would do it - level the surface first or
whack the new skirting straight on...
Just put it straight on. When the nonails goes 'off', it'd take more than a
hoover to knock it off. What I did tho', was run along the top edge of the
skirting with decorators caulk just to fill any small gaps.
A small gap is normally left to lessen the chance of any dust/grit being
picked up during plastering and dragged onto the wall causing scratches -
although most plasterers today leave a bigger gap purely because they can't
be arsed to bend down that far.
I also would be bothered by the unsupported bottom 2.5". I normally
get around it by applying a generous bead of instant foam along the
edge of the floor, I then put a thin bead of water based 'No Nails'
along the top edge of the skirting and push it carefully into place.
The idea of course is that the foam expands and makes contact with the
bottom of the skirting giving a mechnical bond. To do this properly
the procedure will include;-
1) Pinning some stop strips along the very edge of the floor to locate
the bottom of the skirting
2) Run some 2" masking tape along the edge of the floor to catch any
3) Spray the area to be foamed with water first so that it will expand
and make good contact with the rear of the skirting
4) The skirting will need to be held in place while the foam sets
otherwise it will push it out of alignment. To do this I normally stop
any vertical movement by nailing a few 2" oval nails into the wall
along the top edge of the skirting (easily removed and filled later),
The skirting now needs holding back to the wall while the foam sets,
this is easy with a wood floor, but as yours is concrete you will need
to wedge it back with props across the room to the opposite wall, or
by wedging timbers to several heavy objects distanced away from the
The beauty of this method is that it's quick and you don't see any
nail heads which is perfect for unpainted finishes, just be careful
about where you put the foam.
I hope this helps.
Certainly a new way to do it - have not seen anything like it in all the
However I have now read a quite a few guides that specifically state that
the gap where the plaster does not go down to the floor is left to prevent
damp problems, and filling this gap can 'breach' the damp-proof course and
cause problems in the future...
So I am now thinking of leaving the gap behind the skirting, and fixing it
as best I can. This will be my first attempt to scribe the internal
corners - before I have just mitred them.
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