Prviate Water supply problems

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wrote:

The pressure even without gas in the accumulator would drop to the pump start pressure before cutting in. As I said previously and subject to the checks I listed I would be looking at the pressure switch being damaged by the frost. The available cushion volume will be very much reduced at the high pressures quoted simply because it is compressed. Reduced cushion volume - reduced hysteresis and hunting results.
Thanks for your comment. Yes it is possible the pressure switch has been damaged as well as the pressure gauge. I'm not sure how I can check the operation of the pressure switch? Blair
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On 05/01/2011 21:19, bm wrote:

Confirm the pressure gauge is ok. If it is watch it when the pump turns on and off. The operating pressures should match the switch setting
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wrote:

The pressure even without gas in the accumulator would drop to the pump start pressure before cutting in. As I said previously and subject to the checks I listed I would be looking at the pressure switch being damaged by the frost. The available cushion volume will be very much reduced at the high pressures quoted simply because it is compressed. Reduced cushion volume - reduced hysteresis and hunting results.
The firm who supplied my system has now returned from holiday and I asked the manager to comment. Fortunately he was paying a visit near me and said he would call in. His conclusion was the pressure switch and pressure gauge were Ok and the likely cause was the non return valve on the inlet to the pump was leaking due to particles preventing complete closure. I will check this as soon as the weather improves I have always found him to be very reliable in his answers Hope he is right. Watch this space! Blair
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yes...
it's not really the volume that reduces hysteresis, it's the pressure that volume is under.
When you said in your OP:-
"> The pressure in the pressure vessel is at 1.38bar"
was that one of your measurements or not?

but shurely that would mean pressures inside are lower than they should be not higher?

that's not logical - if it's leaking pressure back out why does the

will do - it's getting rather difficult to keep track of what's fact and what's expectation here! ;>)
Jim K
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wrote:

The pressure gauge had been affected by the freezing and he simple removed the over and wound the pointer back to its correct pressure saying at the time that pressure gauges are unreliable. In other words the original starting and stopping pressures were the same as before Blair
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strewth ;>))))) that doesn't sound like a "gauge" that actually measures anything then!
so have you checked that there *is* air and the pressure of it (with pump switched off and a tap open) yet? or are you leaving it all to "the professionals"?
Jim K
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wrote:

I must thank you for making me check the pressure again and I found that the pressure is 2.0 lbs?sq ins and not 20 as I had previously read. The hunting is obviously caused by this. What a mistake! Will report back when I pump up Blair
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wrote:

I am happy to say that now that I have brought the pressure tank up to the correct pressure my system is back to normal The only thing wrong is the pressure gauge which is reading high. I could replace it but at present there is no need as the pressure switch is still set as before If ever I needed to reset the pressure switch I would need an accurate reading gauge Many thanks to all who helped Blair
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wrote:

I have already cheeked the pressure and it is correct but Ron pointed out that the bladder may be ruptured and the accumulator may be filled with water! Blair
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or simply have no air on the "air side" as I and others have postulated...
maybe the severe cold temporarily messed with the accumulator sealing (contraction/expansion?) and allowed your air out? easily tested......
[on mine the EPDM "bladder" is moulded to a shape a bit like a rugby ball but with one end opened out and moulded to mate with a 6 bolt flange where the pump output gubbins, pressure switch etc are located - at the other end on the *outside* of the pressure vessel is a schrader valve where one tops up the air pressure. The air normally *surrounds* the inner bladder (NB water on the inside of the bladder) and provides the desired hysteresis - if it's low/gone as mine does for some reason once a year I get instantaneous on/off pumping when taps are opened /closed (albeit without any wacky pressure readings)]
Jim K
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On 1/2/2011 10:22 AM, bm wrote:

Can't say this is absolutely the problem, but a lot of gauges used for this purpose are copper capillary tubes. Freezing can cause them to not be calibrated anymore. If the pressure and volume from the faucets appear near normal, it might be a good starting pint to change the gauge and see where you are. If it doesn't fix it at least you have a spare gauge at a bery minimal price.
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On 02/01/2011 19:28, Roger wrote:

This is a cheap and easy way to check the system pressure http://www.screwfix.com/search.do ;jsessionid=EN0JS3EE3JJQECSTHZOSFEY?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=pressure+gauge&searchbutton.x=0&searchbutton.y=0
If the pressure is ok it must be your gauge, if the pressure is too high it must be the switch
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bm wrote:

If you are used to having a water pressure in the region of 1.5 bar and you now think it might be 6 bar, which is 4 times higher and would be immediately obvious as soon as you turn on a tap to fill a glass. You write reasonable eloquently and so I would have thought been able to notice such a pressure difference too. I suspect it is the gauge that is at fault and suggest you fit a new one indoors for future use where it will be protected against frost.
hth Bob
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I'm sure you are right but the hunting makes me thibnk it is more than that. Yes I have already improved the insulation in that area Thanks Blair

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On 01/01/2011 20:56, bm wrote:

OK, now you've unfrozen the caps lock key :P try uk.d-i-y instead. In lower case preferably!
Andy.
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I did not know that there is a uk diy group. I thought all groups were universal I have apologised for the capitals Blair
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They are universal, in the sense that anyone can access them. But some are more focussed in one area than another. And it can mean that those across the pond, for example, may not know about our own rules and regulations - or we theirs.
Rob Graham
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Thanks for that info but I am still confused as I joined a number of groups not realizing that they belong to a particular country. I had always assumed that the English speaking world was involved as in the past. I know I have received replies form numerous countries across the World I belong to the following aloe.org, msneews.microsoft.org, news.eternal-september.org and nutp.aioe.org Are you saying that there is agroup which deals primarly with UK matters? Blair

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On 05/01/2011 18:00, bm wrote:

Those are all news servers. Each news server carries a large number of groups - usually many thousands. The news server carries groups from all around the world, some of which are aimed at specific regions. Anything containing uk. will be aimed at Britain; DE is Germany, AUS australia and so on. Some groups are world wide - for example rec.boats.
This group is free.UK.DIY.Home - it is free, it's aimed at the UK, it covers DIY, specifically in the home. There's a competing (and usually better) group called uk.d-i-y; this is also for the UK, but has at least one regular from New Zealand...
Andy
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