I am in the process of refitting my ensuite bathroom and would like to make
the final water feed connection to my toilet via a flexible hose.
A quick measure of the plastic inlet thread and the dia looks to be about
3/4" but I don't know the pitch.
Question is whether a 3/4" flexible tap connector would be compatible?
It will almost definately be a 1/2" thread. The 1/2" (or 3/4") refers to the
internal bore of the pipe. I have yet to see a toilet inlet with a 3/4"
fitting. If you haven't got one, then I suggest fitting an inline service
valve or use a flexible tap connector with an integral one.
'Wot he said. I didn't fit service valves initially but got so fed up
that I spent a day fitting them to everything. Now, anything as minor as
changing a washer or as major as changing the bathroom suite is so much
I wouldn't use flexible hoses anywhere I couldn't get to them easily. I
find it difficult to believe that they will be as long-lived or trouble
free as a solid bit of pipe..
I agree that they probably won't be as long lived or trouble free as solid
copper but they do allow a degree of positioning and make life easier for
What I haven't used yet are pushfit connectors. I just can't get my head
around trusting them!!!
I only do my own house - so time isn't money. I find that lovely little
ring of silver that appears, like magic, around the top of a soldered
joint very reassuring.
I certainly would use push-fit, if time mattered. In many ways they look
a much better idea than normal compression fittings. But they are
manufactured to, and rely on, very tight tolerances - so I would only
use them with new pipework that I was positive met the spec.
All a bit of a change from wiping joints on lead pipes and making your
own joints, not using pre-formed ones..
Just a technique that had to be used when lead-pipes were the norm.
Basically involving a cast iron pot of molten lead boiling away, a lot
of wierd shaped hammers and other strange tools, asbestos rags and total
absence of Health and Safety Rules.
A certain amount of skill is needed - otherwise the joint ending up
encased in lead tend to be the subtalar.
> It will almost definately be a 1/2" thread. The 1/2" (or 3/4") refers to
I didn't realise that the measurement referred to the inside bore!!!
Haven't actually purchased the toilet yet I just put a rule across the O/D
of another toilet inlet.
WRT the inline service valve, I agree, and always fit an isolator whenever I
Another couple of plumbing related questions, I have some chrome plated
copper piping that is going to feed my towel radiator;
Any issues with compression fittings?
For soldering, I assume I have to remove the chrome. What is the best
Just to clarify. The old imperial measures for your pipes were 1/2", 3/4",
and 1" And the threads incidentally are BSP (British Standard Pipe) This was
a good system because whether your pipes were iron, lead or copper, the
internal size and therefore the amount of fluid that would pass through them
was the same irrespective of the wall thickness of the pipe. Now the metric
sizes refer to outside diameter of the pipe, which is ok-ish, for copper at
least. 1/2" is now 15mm, 3/4" is 22mm, and 1" is 28mm, but as every body
knows, there are 25.4mm to the inch, not 28. I don't know what's happened
with iron pipe sizes, I don't use it.
Make certain it is plated copper, and not stainless, which can be
thin-walled. This is where push-fit becomes a bit iffy. Don't ask how I know
I wouldn't. I'd just use a new olive, with PTFE tape if necessary.
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