I have to put up a new plasterboard ceiling in our kitchen (3m x 3m) and
for a variety of reasons I will have to put new plasterboard over the
existing plasterboard ceiling.
I have never done this before and will probably only have my son to help
me. I have located the joists and marked their locations on the wall and
I intend using 40mm dry wall screws.
My questions are related to how best to handle and fix the new
1. Should I try putting up the board as it comes i.e. 8 x 4 sheets or
should I use smaller panels?
2. Would it be of benefit to apply builders adhesive along the edges of
the new board to help it stick to the old board?
Any help gratefully received.
Use 8x4s - gib stopping the joints is a bitch. Make sure you get the
right size screws - no, I'm not trying to be funny. The usual ones are
the right length for screwing through ONE layer of plaster-board into
I think you'll be able to hire a plaster-board holder-upper - I'm in New
Zealand so not sure about that & haven't a clue what they are called.
A L P
But I've seen actual mechanical gadgets advertised that look easier to
use, easier to get the sheet into the right position and make sure it's
held there for the inexperienced home user, and assumed they would be
available at equipment hire places. A whole big sheet of plasterboard
is a damned unwieldy thing to get into place till you've had a bit of
experience, and I noticed the writer asked about whether it would be
better to put up smaller pieces.
A L P
Go for full size boards as there will be less joints. Might be an idea to
work out the most efficient way to use the boards ie, lengthways or
widthways across the joists. Obviously your cut edges need to end up along
the centre of a joist
Before skimming: Use plasterboard tape over all the joints to reduce future
crackage. Use the nylon mesh sort, 50mm wide.
I put up 8x4s by making up 2 very simple and cheap braced 'Ts' out of
roofing batten. Get a helper (two is better) to lift on end of the
board then put your first T about 600mm in from the end and ease the
board up to the ceiling and hold it there. Your second helper does the
same around about 2/3 the way along the sheet, you both then wedge the
Ts up against the ceiling so that the board is held firm while your
third helper puts a few strategic screws in, they then leave you to
whack the rest of the screws in at your own pace. Use maybe 2" long
drywall screws, you won't need any adhesive. As someone else said 8x4s
are easier to line up than smaller board sizes and there is less
taping to do. yes the scrim tape is vital. The Ts need to be about 2"
longer than the finished ceiling height.
All you have to do then is get a good spread to skim it for you, no
point in getting a sweat up trying to do it yourself and ending up
with a less than perfect job as you will always cringe at it in later
How weird... why is that? Sag / bending of board, or something else I'm
You slide the bottom of the T along the floor until it jams the board in
place. If you had it too short the board would be slightly away from the
ceiling when you wanted to put the screws in.
All this chat just confirms what I've always felt - electrics, plumbing,
woodwork, decorating - do it yourself.
Plastering - pay a professional - it takes too long to master the skills and
they are not expensive compared to many others.
"Nother thing, you're standing there having manoeuvred the sheet into
position, you want the prop to stay there, you nudge it gently, tapping
it with your foot until it jams securely. Imagine the frustration were
it not a little longer than the distance between floor and ceiling.
Everything's in position, you want to make sure it's not going to slide
a few mm while you're securing the other end because then it could end
up at an angle and that would throw the whole lay-out out. You nudge
the prop and it flies out past vertical to the other side. Board
descends with undesirable rapidity and the day gets ugly, the kind of
ugly that needs a mellow temperament to get through, and *that*s* no
longer on site........
A L P
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