Part P !


http://www.tuppencechange.co.uk/part_p.html
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the_constructor



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Part P is all to do about Tax. On the electrician and the person who paid Him ( Back track through invoices)A few pounds here and a few pounds there to the council all adds up + all the so called inspectors all taking hundreds of pounds a year for the registration.All private bodies - not the Government.Licence to bodge and self certify the job.
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Which parts of part P would you fail it on? I am playing devils advocate here not taking sides.
You will have to expand upon "Re the last picture, the electrician told my mate that he didn't know why he was fitting this cooker unit because everytime they were used it tripped the MCB and IT DID" So which is at fault, the cooker switch, the cooker or the MCB or maybe an RCD?
Adam
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ARWadsworth wrote:

Or the electrician for not fitting a more suitable switch.
There seems to be a lot of un-sheilded cable to me & the cooker switch is too low, looks only a few cm above the level of the work surface though it's difficult to be certain from the pic.
Cosmetically speaking the cooker switch isn't countersunk & the switch next to the double socket isn't aligned, there may be some play in the mounts to level them up but I doubt there's that much.
Mike
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Most of the pictures don't show any breach of regs, just messey work. The diagonal cable run in first pic is wrong.

Combined cooker switch and socket outlet always seems to me like a bad idea -- you ideally want the socket RCD protected, but you don't want the cooker RCD protected. I don't use them. However, it sounds like there's a wiring fault which needs fixing, and the electrician doesn't understand how to.

There's no requirement for the sheilding at all.

As I said, it's a complete mess from that point of view, not at all what I would expect from a professional.
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Andrew Gabriel

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Pic 1. Unshielded cable. Not following safety zones. Cables should be vertical or horizontal not diagonal. Switch and double socket are about 8 inches above worktop Pic 2 Jointing cable from switch to double socket is looped through top of metal boxes and as has been pointed out, the switch is out of alignment to double socket Pic 3 & 4 Again shows unshielded cables Pic 5 Again shows unshielded cables but also a break in shielding about a foot up the wall Pic 6 Again shows unshielded cables Pic 7 The cooker point is surfaced mounted and only 4 inches above worktop. Why fit a unit that is renound for blowing the circuit breakers.
Final point that is only really noticeable in pics 2 & 3 is that there is no rubber grommet in the metal boxes where the wires pass through.
They call this a professional installation by Part P registered electricians. I call it a flamming shambles by a cowboy.
I have always said that most DIY wiring jobs are done with more care. Looks like I might just be right after all.
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Yes. The diagonal cable was one of the things I spotted. A pity really as the electrician could have chased down from the top right of the diagonal and still being in the safe zone. I can see nothing wrong with sockets 8 inches above the work top reg wise. I usually place them 6 inches above but I will place them at 8 inches if the customer wants me to or is using 4 inch tiles

Uneven and misaligned sockets are not against the regs but a show of poor workmanship

Nothing wrong with that. The electrician could have just used clips and no capping

I have no idea why it has been surface mounted and has not been sunk in. It is still not against the regs. It looks like an MK cooker switch and socket. I can assure you that these are not renowned for blowing MCBs

That is bad. It is also bad that the circuit is powered up when fingers can enter the back boxes throught the knock outs

Certainly untidy and sloppy workmanship

I do not think many people will disagree with you there. Perhaps a better statement would be "I have always said that most DIY wiring jobs are done with more care by competent DIYers than professionals"
Thanks for the photos.
Adam
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