Non adhesive filler

[Colin Jackson]

I have an Edwardian house with sash & side hung wooden windows, it is impossible to seal the cracks.

Any ideas for a non-adhesive filler, in a gun, that I can squeeze into the cracks before I bed down for winter. A filler that will easily peel off when I want to open the windows in spring?

Colin

[fred]

In article , Colin Jackson writes

I think it will end in tears, when I used the least sticky sealant that I had for this a while back, it wouldn't come of the cracks. Fortunately it wasn't my house.

Obviously the wrong time of year to do it right but pvc insulating tape over cracks and gaps isn't a bad bodge. CPC have all colours at silly cheap prices for 19mm x 33m, white looked fine on the painted ones I put it on, brown would be fine for stripped or varnished wood. Comes off fine with no residue in the warm weather. Avoid stretching when applying to keep it sticking well.

[Cash]

Colin,

This is just a suggestion as I have never tried it.

Open the sashes and smear a thin layer of lubricant [1] on both surfaces where you intend to apply the "filler". Apply a smear of filler (probably some type of mastic and just enough to fill the widest gap) and close the sashes - cleaning off the exuded excess.

This will fill the gaps and stop draughts, but the lubricant will stop it sticking.

As I said, I have never used this idea in a situation such as yours - but it may just work [2].

[1] You could try something like a silicone pipe lubricant that's used for easing the rubber seals of plastic pipes. Or even a smear of WD40, but this may have an adverse affect on the filler/mastic. [2] You could even try using a strip of cling-film - lay pieces of this on a flat surface, spread a thin bead of filler/mastic along its length and then roll it like a Swiss roll and put this between the frame and sashes.

All the best with this, and if you try the ideas, let us know if its either a success of failure.

Cash

[AJH]

I have a similar problem and find that the type of collapse rubber P tubing mean for draught proofing can be pushed into narrow gaps and it will deform to seal any uneveness. Even the cheap foam strip types would probably work. I think anything you stick might end up being difficult to remove cleanly in the summer.

[Old Git]

What I did a few years back whilst living in and trying to update my late fathers house, prior to sale. He had side hung windows you could literally see light through the gaps. I opened the windows and put clingfilm over the faces of the windows, run a good bead of clear silicone down around the frame faces, pulled the windows shut then released them again, allowed the silicone to set for a while, removed the clingfilm from the windows once the silicone had formed a reasonable skin. When shut there was absolutely no draught through at all. You don't even have to remove the silicone in spring, just open the window.

[Colin Jackson]

I think I will try the cling film approach

2 strips of cling film, one on each surface and caulking in between.

Thanks guys for some lateral thinking

Colin

[gilli]

Hi, In the USA there is a product which comes in the form of a coiled cord which is light blue much like Blue Tack is here, but perhaps 3 meters in a coil. It is meant for this purpose. It does not harden and can be taken out in the spring. If you did a search for draft proofing (us spelling, of course) and found it and its maker, perhaps checking their web site would tell you if it was imported here. best wished, David G

[Twayne]

Silicone caulk or caulk with a high silicone content. They're fairly expensive though.

Twayne