Mains socket under combi boiler - ok?

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How about *directly* under the connector for the washing machine? That's where there's a socket in our German house. (It's so close that you can't easily unplug the washing machine without disconnecting the filling hose first.)
I don't know if it meets local regs, but if I had owned the house when it was installed I'd certainly have said "Oy!"
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wrote:

How about *directly* under the connector for the washing machine? That's where there's a socket in our German house. (It's so close that you can't easily unplug the washing machine without disconnecting the filling hose first.)
I don't know if it meets local regs, but if I had owned the house when it was installed I'd certainly have said "Oy!"
The house I am working on at the moment has a combi boiler fitted around an existing socket in the corner of the kitchen
the socket is surface on top of the old vir conduit box
the socket sits between the flow and return pipes for the C H
The boiler was fitted there by British Gas and replaced an old floor standing boiler in the fireplace in the dining room next door with the fused spur and programme being left in their previous position
Why do I try to avoid getting the professionals in?
Regards
Tony
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On 29/09/2011 12:52, John Rumm wrote:

I personally wouldn't worry, if the combi leaks, it's likely to leak all over its own electrics anyway.

Now there I prefer at least 600mm, making it less likely that the live kettle lead ends up in the bowl.
SteveW
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Are there any these days that aren't 'cordless'?
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On 30/09/2011 10:15, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

> >
Nor me.
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wrote:

Nor me. Sounds like you never clean the kettle and/or base.
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On 30/09/2011 20:43, Scott wrote:

Kids spill things and you don't know that the base is sticky until you try to pick the kettle up off it. It's a very infrequent event, but it has happened a number of times now.
SteveW
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Maybe it's the other way around and they all have sticky worktops.
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On Sep 29, 10:23pm, Steve Walker < snipped-for-privacy@remove-this.walker- family.me.uk> wrote:> > (note there are not hard rules about distances from a sink either -

That's exactly my problem though. There is not enough room between sink and combi to allow even 300mm, which is why it has to go under the combi.
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On 29/09/11 23:45, clangers snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.co.uk wrote:

At least you won't have to wait long for the hot water to come through when you turn on the tap :)
On a similar note, I guess because the hot water from a combi is instantaneously heated, and not stored, it is as potable (drinkable) as the cold water used to feed it ?
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On 30/09/2011 10:59, funkyoldcortina wrote:

Usually yes.
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On 29/09/2011 22:23, Steve Walker wrote:

Possibly true, but could still leave you with a soaking wet plug to grab hold of.
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On 30/09/2011 15:41, John Rumm wrote:

> What about changing the socket for an *external fused switched spur*, they are waterproof? You'll lose the socket, but you'll gain a switch. Boilers must have a fused switched spur anyway.
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The OP wants a double socket for general kitchen use and is not after a power supply for the boiler.
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On 30/09/2011 16:02, ARWadsworth wrote:

> Sorry, my mistake, I should've read the original thread.
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On 30 Sep,

Don't BG insist on them being fed from an unswitched socket outlet so that they can be seen to be isolated.
My understanding is that you are correct as it is a fixed apliance, but BG may differ.
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On Sun, 02 Oct 2011 00:00:46 +0100, me9 wrote:

I fed mine from a DP switch with neon. I would still always turn off the MCB too...!
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If it's a socket outlet, it must be unswitched. However, it can be (and more usually is) an FCU (double-pole switched).
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