Errecting a garden fence


Am pretty handy around the house / garden but have never put up 6'6"(ish) garden fence panels. I have two sides of a garden to do - both about 40ft. To tips, guidance gratefully received. I can't believe it is simply a matter of digging holes, filling them with concrete and popping a 4" square post in? I dont want to discover my mistakes as i go along. Also, recommendations on where to get panels and posts would be appreciated - I'm looking at the vertical overlap strip type panel. Cheers
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It is simply a matter as you have said. The only very slight problem that I have experienced is that my posts were planted exactly 6' apart and I secured the panels using the U shaped aluminium clips which take up about 1/8" of the space between the posts, so my panels were a tight fit. I would also suggest putting down a thin layer of concrete in the hole before putting the posts in, followed by the concrete, not the other way around. You need to dig the hole down 2'. I got my panels and posts from Homebase.
| Am pretty handy around the house / garden but have never put up 6'6"(ish) | garden fence panels. I have two sides of a garden to do - both about 40ft. | To tips, guidance gratefully received. I can't believe it is simply a matter | of digging holes, filling them with concrete and popping a 4" square post | in? I dont want to discover my mistakes as i go along. Also, | recommendations on where to get panels and posts would be appreciated - I'm | looking at the vertical overlap strip type panel. Cheers | |
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Hi Andrew

It's not that much more complicated! First you need tanalised timber posts. Easiest method is to use specific Post Fix cement, comes in bags - 1 bag per post, hardens in minutes. Metal spikes are easy & quick but if they hit a big stone they can twist.
Start in a corner, get the first post 100% level, square and to the right height, then move out. Level posts are the crux of this job - get them all spot on and get the tops of the panels level, ignore the ground as such, fit gravel boards afterwards.

I'm
I've bought from Wickes in the past, but check you local timber merchants and fencing suppliers. Go and look, quality and price varies enormously. Check the price of clips & Post Fix as well.
Dave
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Having just repaired the posts in my fence about 30 years old (as a amateur fenceman), you might want to consider some other options for a longer term view. The posts rot away just above the concrete base where they are dampest and the residue in the hole may or may not be removable. In the latter case the concrete has to be removed in toto and replaced - not easy if it weighs 100 lb - or someone here recommended driving a steel post spike (from eg Focus) down the corner of the old wood in the concrete if it is still solid eonugh. If the post has rotted away completely you can just pop a new one in the empty hole with a bit of planing/padding as necessary.
For new fences the other options some folk on this group suggested are 1. use concrete posts with the grooves to slot panels into. These are very common hereabouts (about 50%) and are a doddle to replace the panels.( from Jewson apparently). 2. use steel spikes with wood posts above ground
Finally in a very difficult garden which backs onto a precipitous slope a neighbour has concrete foundations with concrete stubs sticking up about two feet above ground. These are bolted onto standard 3" square wood posts with couple of coach bolts. I don't know how you would get hold of such bases if you are not in the trade.
John
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What stops the yobs sliding the panel up and getting in underneath ? (my back garden fence backs onto a public car park) -- Vass
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matter
I'm
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