Cast iron drain pipe disaster

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I got a cast iron drain pipe 3" diameter thats taking sink water and it appears out of the wall with a 90 degree bend and goes straight down about 3 meters and into concrete.
Someone opened the 90 degree bend cover and tried to unblock a blockage further down. But they seem to have used what looks like a 15mm copper pipe and left it stuck inside!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
An inspection camera locates it about 1 meter below the access hole.
doh!!
How does one get this out?
Its cost 150 quid so far for someone to come clear it from what I thought was a normal blockage only to be told about this major blunder and that the job can't be done until its taken out.
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Borrow a set of drain rods and see if any of them can grip it or try pushing a probe (fence wire) to the bottom end of the pipe perhaps with a hook end and try to pull the copper pipe up.
"7" wrote in message
I got a cast iron drain pipe 3" diameter thats taking sink water and it appears out of the wall with a 90 degree bend and goes straight down about 3 meters and into concrete.
Someone opened the 90 degree bend cover and tried to unblock a blockage further down. But they seem to have used what looks like a 15mm copper pipe and left it stuck inside!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
An inspection camera locates it about 1 meter below the access hole.
doh!!
How does one get this out?
Its cost 150 quid so far for someone to come clear it from what I thought was a normal blockage only to be told about this major blunder and that the job can't be done until its taken out.
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Stewart wrote:

That is a good idea. I got flexible segmented drain rod set. If I can form a loop with fence wire at the tip of the drain rod, then hook the loop around the pipe, and then push the drain rod and loop 1 to 2 meters down, and then yank at the drain rod, it should catch the pipe if the loop is tight enough and bring both the drain rod and pipe up at the same time!
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If the end of the 15mm copper isn't jammed against the side of the cast iron, could you fit a push-fit 15mm coupler to another length, lower it onto the piece in there and push the coupler on, and then pull the two out?
Probably need the camera in there too, to get the two lined up, and/or some other type of guide to align them.
--
Andrew Gabriel
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Andrew Gabriel wrote:

That is a brilliant idea - though I fear that pipe is not lined up straight to allow the coupler to just slide in without a struggle. I ordered a 7M USB endoscopic camera from Ebay for about 30 quid - it needs another look to see if it can work out.
I thought about taking a long wood and use a band saw to cut a long taper and push it into the pipe opening and jam it and then drag both pieces out.
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What is needed is some kind of device that can be expanded inside the jammed pipe. I'm sure such a device exists, but the question is what would you ask for? Brian
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"7" <email_at_www_at_enemygadgets_dot snipped-for-privacy@enemygadgets.com> wrote in message
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Something like a Rawlbolt?
I made one for shotgun barrel dent removal but suspect that the OP will not have the equipment or skills.
--
Tim Lamb

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Tim Lamb wrote:

I got big rawbolts - probably need smaller ones, but now idea how it could be operated 1 meter below the access hole.
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Can you see the open end of the copper pipe? Is the pipe jammed in position?
If the answer to both is yes, then how about finding a very course thread screw that will screw into the end of the pipe and then once it is as tight as you can manage pull it out? You would need to fix the screw onto the end of some form of rod, do you know any friendly welders?
Failing that maybe a long length of something very stiff, [calm down at the back please, ] form a U shaped bend at one end a couple of inches long and small enough to just push down the inside of the pipe and push it all the way through and then pull back so that the bent end hooks over the far end of the pipe.
--
Bill

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How about a big coach bolt welded to the end of a suitable bar and screwed in to the 15mm, then pulled/levered out?
Steve
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shazzbat wrote:

Way over my talent - what I need is a coach bolt type of mechanism that closes some fingers as opposed to opening them and with a long long extensible handle. A bit like a fruit picker but strong jaws that can close with a ratchet action so that it won't let go until the ratchet is released. The closest I have is 1M long rubbish picker. Its jaws are too big for entering 3" pipe and its gripping action is weak with no ratchet action.
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On 07/10/2012 18:09, 7 wrote:

So you don't have a rawlbolt that will go inside the end of the copper pipe? That you could fix to the end of a rod or such, rotate the rod so the bolt does up and expands inside the pipe?
Andy
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oh yes, you should try uk.d-i-y.
Andy
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OK then, how about this? Drill or cut a hole in the drainpipe after carefully working out where the top of the copper pipe is. Make your hole well below the top of it, and well above ground level. Then you can drill a hole in the copper and lever it up, after that it should be plain sailing. Of course you'll need to make the hole in the drainpipe with a view to how you're going to seal it up afterwards.
Steve
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Didn't mean to insult:-)
Basically you need a tube which will fit inside the copper pipe and is long enough to reach. Cut slots in the end. You then need a rod which tapers to a larger size at the end such that when you draw it inside the slotted pipe the tube end expands to grip.
--
Tim Lamb

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On Sun, 7 Oct 2012 23:32:14 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:

Seems a lot of work. I reckon the pushfit coupler on the end of another bit of 15mm pipe will be pretty effective. They don't blow (pull) off easy and are, I think, rated up to 10 bar.
TBH not sure if the OP has said this lost bit of pipe is actually jammed in place to just resting, out of reach, 1m from the inspection opening.
--
Cheers
Dave.




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One of many suggestions:-)
A form of sprag clutch would also work but be much harder to fabricate.
I have to admit that *push fit* couplers are later than my last involvement in plumbing. The obstacle may well be resting hard up against the waste pipe side and need prising clear before mating with the coupler.
I hope the OP will report back.

--
Tim Lamb

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7 wrote, on 07th Oct. 2012 00:22 UTC + 2 :

Hello,
Did you see a picture of it ?
Pearl.fr has one for 30 euros (comparable price) but the last few centimetres seem rigid, so pay attention if your tube is angular.
They also have an autonomous model, of which the rigid part of the tube seems shorter, but it is much more expansive.
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On Sat, 6 Oct 2012 17:52:00 +0000 (UTC), snipped-for-privacy@cucumber.demon.co.uk (Andrew Gabriel) wrote:

Get a basin wrench such as http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Plumbers+Tools/Adjustable+Basin+Wrench+280mm/d10/sd210/p81935 and fabricate a suitable long handle. Hold the swivel head at 90deg with some tape and turn it onto the pipe. The grip will help rotate the pipe and pulling upward at the same time should free it.
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Lasso noose on end of garden cane[1]?
[1] or length of plastic plumbing pipe or conduit or drain rod or elect cable fishing rod
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .
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