My Mum wants me to put up some long (8 foot) shelves up, using contiboard
and 4 shelf bearers per shelf, lots of books on them!. Which is the best
way to get the shelf bearers level? With a shorter length shelf I would fix
one bearer and then using the shelf and the other bearer I would adjust to
level and mark the holes. With the conti board being so long it will bend
under it's own weight so I don't think this method will work. Any more
Don't know if it's relevant to hanging long shelves at, say, 20"
intervals....letting you peeps know, when I popped in -earlier- this week,
my Netto had cheap picture-frame-hanging spirit levels for sale. About 700mm
long, with in-line marker holes set above the ruler.
Some possibly left over are hopefully still around in other stores.
I make it 32 inches between bracket centres. Sag even more.
But how thick is contiboard? One inch thick would be OK.
I have a plain timber bookshelf 3 foot 10" wide and 3/4" thick
and it has sagged 1/8 inch. Is plain timber a lot more expensive
than timber that has been shredded into sawdust and glued back
Use real timber. I have some here the same length you require (2cm thick) that
are suspended at three points and completely full of A4 books and paper. No
sag. I'd also think about screwing a 5-10cm lip at the back to give it
rigidity. Also think very carefully about how the shelf bearers are fixed.
John Cartmell john@ followed by finnybank.com 0845 006 8822
Qercus magazine FAX +44 (0)8700-519-527 www.finnybank.com
not completely sure I've understood your problem - do you mean along
the wall or outwards from the wall?
2 ways to handle the 8ft distance:
1. plug the wall at the extremities - one end at the exact location for
that shelf, the other end apporximately positioned -- and screw in 2 x
long screws. Stretch a building line between them and try the line
with a spirit level, adjusting the line support until it is level.
If you are unsure of your spirit level check by reversing it. Draw a
horizontal line along the wall.
2. Drop a plumb line down the line of the support at one extremity.
Mark in the vertical. Now mark off a 3-4-5 triangle from the vertical,
draw and extend a horizontal line. Check by repeating from the other
end if any doubt.
Use blockboard instead of chipboard or MDF. Plywood isn't too bad, but
blockboard has a better stiffness / money ratio. Books are _heavy_.
Chipboard and MDF are no use at all.
Take a look at the Sagulator too (web search it)
Almost all appeals for help concern the "best way" to do something
within given parameters. You might want to reconsider thread titles in
your future posts to usenet.
It is the plumb lines you need to watch. A little out of level won't be
too bad. You might choose to follow the ceiling and use a measure down
from there for example. But 1 mm out with the uprights and they will
always catch your eye.
If you haven't got a decent, longish level, use a plumb line to mark
out where the uprights are going to be set every 26 to 23 inches or so
-if you put the outer bearers some 6 to 8 inches in from the ends.
You can make a plumb line with some string and a ring spanner or some
such weight. Exactly how are they fixing to the wall?
Your levels can be drawn in, using something with a square edge.
Alternatively you could use geometry. More accurate but time consuming.
Put your first shelf up and all the others will go to a measured
Any sagging in the future can be rectified by putting a piece of
architrave or some other moulding on the front edge. Pin it and use
some sort of suitable adhesive, grip-fill maybe.
Another alternative is to put some 2 x 2s under the shelves. Pinned to
the uprights maybe? Remeber to allow enough space to get the books out.
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