I installed the 5.1 in-wall system in my house back in 2002 when it was
under construction. They were the good ones, none of that plastic stuff.
During the framing there were steel mounting boxes installed between the
studs. Then in the trim phase the speakers were installed after the sound
baffles were inserted.
The baffles caused 90% of the sound to come out of the front.
Incidently, did you know there are basically 2 types of speakers.
Infinite Baffle and Bass Reflex.
You can tell them apart visually by observing whether the speaker cabinet
has a *blow hole* on the front, which lets the bass sounds resonate forward.
If it has a blow hole its a Bass Reflex speaker.
Infinite Baffle speakers have no blowhole and rely on the sealed cabinet to
force the bass to the front.
Infinite Baffles seem to have a tighter sound to the low end.
How to test a speaker:
Play Boston's "Smokin'" song and listen for the part where the dood rolls
the drums downward.
Crank the volume as loud as you can stand it and hold a lit zippo lighter 4'
in front of the speaker.
When the drummer hits the lowest drum the zippo should blow.
If not, box that junk up and take it back from whence it came and beat the
sales doods ass.
in your picture of the hot water heater / water softener,
please tell me that white vertical plastic pipe to the right
of the heater (that looks like $hit) is not a gas line !
if it is, you need to have whoever did that shoddy job
to do over.
if it's a suction line for the salt tank, make them do
it over anyway, it looks like $hit !
Quick hijack question - is black pipe black because of rust protection -
i.e. as in gun blueing or parkerizing. I understand the difference between
blueing and parkerizing by the way, but I didn't have the proper term for it
off the top of my head.
Depends on where you live. I know for a fact that the town where I work will
not approve galvanized.
Safety warning: Check condition of flexible gas line connections: Caution:
we do not pull out appliances to look at gas line connections, but you
should do so, checking condition of flexible connections for leaks and
assuring that a shutoff valve is installed. Watch for leaks in those
flex-connector lines between gas line and the appliance as they are thin
wall and often corrode and leak. Gas leaks are dangerous. Safety warning.
Flexible soft copper piping has been used to supply municipal (natural) gas
... electric clothes dryer.
... hot water heater.
... heating system.
This is not a recommended installation and it may be prohibited by local
codes - "black iron" steel piping is required in many jurisdictions.
Read the last line. It does not say galvanized is not allowed, but does say
black is preferred. As I said, it is not allowed by our local inspector in
MA, but it may be in your town. I don't argue with our local guy as it is
easier to do what he wants.
Galvanized is not allowed for gas in my area. I am in SE Wisconsin.
I am pretty sure that flex stainless lines are also a no-no for us on
water heaters. Here we see mostly black pipe, and occasionally flex
pipe such as Wardflex(tm) for "snaking" through floors and walls.
No. As far as I know, WI is one of the only states that hasn't (or
isn't) adopting a more universal code for plumbing. I'm sure that
poking around the web enough I could find and cite the code, but it is
likely a WI only thing, so what is the value to the group as a whole?
They used CPVC for the gas line to the water heater. IIRC, CPVC is not
rated for gas, and I'm pretty sure the valve is not. You really want
to check on that before you have a gas leak etc.. Normally black iron
pipe or yellow flex is used.
Also, the picture isn't that good to see detail but the galvanized
piece that comes out of the right side up toward the top, that should
be a T/P relief valve, is it?
If not that's as dangerous as the wrong gas line material. There is
supposed to be a water line from the T/P valve (I don't see one, just
the galvanized pipe with something black on the end?) with plumbing
down toward the floor or to the outside so that hot water can exit the
tank to relieve pressure/temperature build up in case of emergency
where the water is heated too hot or the pressure exceeds the limit.
Otherwise the water heater tank explodes.
You need to check both for code compilance and proper material and a T/
Quality Water Associates
I agree with Gary, there needs to be a T&P valve on the tank that
is piped to the floor. I'm not sure which room you are in or
which code your jurisdiction uses, but I suspect the hot water
tank needs to be on an pedestal that gets the flame over 18" off
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
I could not tell from his picture, it is required for garage
installations. Some inspectors are liking the idea so much they
prefer it on all installs. Has to do with explosive, heavier than
air, vapors. We even have one that wants electric 2 1/2 gallon
Galvanized pipe is a no-no for gas.
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
And it is inspectors like these that cause trouble. When they make their own
rules, where does it stop? And the galvanized pipe is strictly a "not
recommended" thing. It's not against code.
To elevate an electric water heater is just stupid and ridiculous. The
whole point is to prevent gasoline vapors that could possibly gather at the
floor of a garage from igniting on a GAS unit. Any other unit, and any
other place, it's ignorant to elevate it.
"DanG" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
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