HOW? - Frame for vinyl window in cement basement wall

[Dave in Denver]

I will have egress windows cut into my cement basement walls for a major remodel, will use a standard 48" x 48" slider or casement.

Two contractors told me they simply frame the new concrete opening with 2 inch "green pressure treated lumber" and then set the window. There may be a bit more lumber for the header "to align with basement ceiling" or structural needs, but other than that all there will be is a single board between the cement and window frame.

(FYI... my city does require an engineers document specifying any structural header needs in order for the city to give me a permit to cut two big holds in my basement wall. So that bit will be taken care of.)

But just a single 2" board sounds too fast and easy. Is there a "proper" way or am I just use to doing things the hard way?

Thx Dave-in-Denver

[PeterD]

For the sides and bottom, I'd say a 2X? would be OK. I'm wondering how much shrinkage a PT piece will have if it is not dried some first.

For the top, your engineers document will tell you what is really needed. Probably a standardized header across the top.

[v8z]

Something to "suggest" to your contractor. For the small amount of PT needed for the window framing, have him buy it from one of the big box stores that store their materials indoors. The PT will have already had a chance to dry out some which will minimize shrinkage and air infiltration down the road....and be sure to have him use an expanding PU foam between the PT and the concrete to seal any irregularities in the opening.

[valvejob]

Could you post that 'engineers document' you refer to? I'd like to see it.

You seem to have something in your head already about what should be done. Tell us what you think.

[PeterD]

Good suggestion. I try to keep a few pieces of 2x8 PT on hand, dried out as much as possible for stuff like this, but HD (and Lowes) keeping their stuff inside can be very useful, especially if one's timing is good...

[PeterD]

I think what the OP was referring to is an engineer's report certifying that the modifications are structurally sound. I'm sure (but could be wrong) that the OP has not done this yet.

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[Art]

Actually you want kiln dried if you want the best.

Buy the way, he should not be cutting into the sill plate. Make sure he doesn't.

[Oren]

Personally, I would pick the slider.

They will cut the wall; larger than necessary, so the RO (rough opening can be framed for the window. You want this RO, sized for the window you pick. The framer needs to ensure the RO is big enough (and square) . My exterior framed walls are 2X6....

-- Oren

"The voices in my head may not be real, but they have some good ideas!"

[v]

Why, what's wrong with it?

So ask for a method of your liking that is slow and hard, and then they'll know you are easily ripped off by bullshit.

Reply to NG only - this e.mail address goes to a kill file.

[Dave in Denver]

Do not have engineers doc yet and of course I expect it to be detailed about header requirements. But I will ask them also about typical frame solutions too. Thx

Well... not knowing what is needed is why I posted... but I thought there would be some way of accommodating the weatherseal "fin" rather than flat mounting the vinyl window directly on a single layer of PT. Maybe something like a 1" PT layer next to the concrete (bolted/glued/ etc.) then a layer of 2x4 and 2x6 side by side with a 1/8" gap for the "fin". And something like a "finish" or trim layer on top of that on the inside. But, again, as you can tell.... I do not know what is usual so I am asking people who know.

Thx Dave-in-Denver

[Dave in Denver]

Sorry all, newby screw up. Dave-in-Denver

[valvejob]

You do good work.

I actually prefer your method although I suspect the window will remain functional for 40 years using either method.

[Dave in Denver]

Well thanks. But it sounds like my method is just overkill. We'll see if the engineer has recommendations and find the right middle ground.

Thx all! Dave-in-Denver