Guess it all depends on the guarantee. You reputation precedes you. What happens if you lay a ladder against the drip edge, and it bends? I admit the price is ridiculous, but what isn't any more.
50 year drip edge? Great. Now tell me where I can find 50 year shingles to go with it.
On my roof. 50 year archs.
But they haven't been around yet for 50 years so I personally take these guarantees with a grain of salt. I'll believe it when I see it. My
30 year shingles are only 6 years old and I'll be very surprised if they last 24 more years.Matt
Not sure if I'm willing to wait another quarter century for your full report, but good luck with it anyway!
The guarantee doesn't mean that there _won't_ be problems. It means if and when there are problems you probably won't see jack. Subtle difference. ;)
R
However, it does call into question paying 3X more for "50 year" drip edge. :-)
Matt
Exactly. The warranties are pro-rated such that you aren't going to get much if a 30 year shingle lasts 20 years. Also, the chances of the shingle manufacturer being around in 50 years are probably the same as my being around, pretty slim.
I suppose, but you could put (2) 25-year roofs on with the same 50-year drip edge.
Here in Connecticut we are required to install drip edge.
Jack
NY, too. Specifically section =A71507.2.9.3
Unfortunately, all too often, reroofing and remodeling gets treated like bastard sons of new construction and a lot of stuff falls through the cracks. A roofer worth his salt would comply with code even if he thought it was a waste of time. It's not like he's paying for it and he can use the fact that he's complying with code as a sales tool.
R
True. However, if the drip edge is installed correctly it should be over top of the roofing felt along the gables and thus should be removed for a proper refelting anyway. I know, I know, many folks just slap a new layer of shingles on over the existing, but I never liked that practice.
Matt
Also true, but it is common and can save substantial amounts of money when you figure in the demo and haul cost of removing an existing roof.
BTW, I always design my roof systems to allow for two layers of asphalt shingles.
Ripping off instead of reroofing also loses that valuable R-0.1 insulation from the old layer of shingles.
Asphalt? You're showing your age, Bob. Or, maybe the shingles are. ;)
My favorite was the house with 2x4 rafters that had cedar shingles and two layers of asphalt shingles - well, maybe the top one was fiberglass.
You can generally tell the reroofed-too-many-times-with-inadequate- framing houses by the sway-backed ridge. That's usually the first place it shows up.
R
That was my house in Seattle before we re-roofed as requirement of the sale. For some reason the banks in Seattle seem to make this a standard practice before granting loans.
Never heard that one before. Makes a certain kind of sense - for the bank!
R
That was my house. It lasted for twelve years after I bought it.
responding to
Reading this entire thread has convinced me that drip edge is a good idea, but is $800 for it (plus valley iron) excessive? (The footprint for the house is 2400 sq. ft.)Perhaps I should just ask the cheaper company to add the drip edge plus valley iron for an additional cost?
Any advice would be appreciated. Malcolm
RicodJour wrote:
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Uh, separate the "valley iron" (what is that?) from the drip edge. Now see where the expenses are. I don't think drip edge is what is $800, it more likely is the valley treatment.
The drip edge is a great idea, but the valley flashing may not be as necessary since most roofers will weave a valley. Since I cannot see the roof, I am not sure what type of valley we are speaking about and some valleys require metal flashing. I just finished my roof and used 16 square of roofing, and the flashing cost was 880.00 I of course had 6 skylights, and edge flashing in the mix. I like the edge flashing that goes out about 1 1/4" and returns back with a drop over the facia of about 1". On the lower eaves I do the pitch bend and on the facia running up the rake it is straight out and back. I researched this, and the flashing helps keep the water from coming in at the edges and keeps the plywood dry.
I'm in the process of getting reroofing estimates. The two companies I'm interested in are approximately $800 apart in their bids: the more expensive one includes drip edge on eaves and gable ends as well as "valley iron," and the other company does not. Both companies have good reputations in town.
Reading this entire thread has convinced me that drip edge is a good idea, but is $800 for it (plus valley iron) excessive? (The footprint for the house is 2400 sq. ft.)Perhaps I should just ask the cheaper company to add the drip edge plus valley iron for an additional cost?
Any advice would be appreciated. Malcolm
RicodJour wrote:
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