Drip edge discouraged

Hi,

I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house in Northern Virginia, and I have gotten conflicting advice regarding installation of drip edge.

The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has irregularities.

The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.

Both of these roofers have highest ratings in a local consumer ratings service (Washington Checkbook).

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

GB

Reply to
GB
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I'm with the second roofer. If the roof structure is so "irregular" that drip edge won't lay flat, then you've got a bigger problem than just needing shingles.

Matt

Reply to
Matt Whiting

I second Matt's recommendation. The previous owner of my house did not install drip edge and now I have water blowing back against the edge of the sheathing. So, I'm going to figure out a way to retroactively install the drip edge.

Reply to
Bob Morrison

If you take a look during the rain at a drip edge installed, you will quickly see how much rain it sheds that would have contacted the wood and seeped in. Put them under the builder's paper (or adhesive membrane) along the eaves (where the gutter is), and over the paper along the gable edges.

Reply to
DT

Drip edges perform a necessary function. All the information about drip edge installation is right on the wrapper of _every_ bundle of shingles, and it makes me wonder what other manufacturer's instructions the first roofer doesn't think he needs to follow.

I had a similar situation with an excellent roofer. He said the drip edge wasn't necessary and he never installed it. I told him I required it even if he didn't, so he put it in. Don't throw out the first roofer for this one little item.

BTW, if the underlying roof structure is irregular the shingles won't lay right with or without the drip edge.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

The problem is: if he doesn't know about drip edge, what else about roofing doesn't he know? Personally, I'd move along down the road to the next roofer.

Matt

Reply to
Matt Whiting

I've seen it done both ways. Without a drip edge the roofers tend to start the first shingle overhanging a bit more. That starts to curl over time, giving a sloppy appearance, esp. if no gutters. On the other hand, I've seen galvanized speed-rusting ant the break of a drip. Not pretty.

Reply to
Michael Bulatovich

Well, here's an option. I'm in the process of having some roofs redone and my roofer told me the same thing - no need for the drip edge. He said he's using ice and water shield that hangs over the edge so that the drip edge would be extraneous.

Interestingly, in researching this, I saw conflicting information. One article said install drip edge before the ice/water shield, the other said, absolutely, it has to be installed after. hmm...

It does seem that logically one should use a drip edge. Wish we had this discussion a week ago!

Reply to
Astro

Drip edge's are not required by code (IRC), but the code does require that asphalt shingles be installed per manufacturers instructions. All asphalt shingle manufacturer's belong to and follow the guidelines of the Asphalt Shingle Manufactures Association (ARMA); and in their "Residential Asphalt Roofing Manual" they state that "the use of a drip edge is strongly recommended". Hence, the first roofer is correct, it IS NOT actually required, but, have drip edges installed even if it costs more.

The proper method is usually described on the shingle wrapper, but if not, its installed directly to the deck along the eaves, and over the underlayment on the rakes. Also carefully review the underlayment quoted. On my last reroof I had them use the self-adhering type over the complete roof and feel it's well worth the slight extra cost. (Even when the shingles lift water will not get to the deck.)

Reply to
Dennis

The fact is that, just as Rico said, drip edge performs a neccesary function. I would say many more than a single function. We have all seen homes with no drip edge and no problems but we have more often seen them with no drip edge and the subsequent, predictable, problems. Many things can affect the balance, the amount of shingle overhang, type of underlayment, pitch, climate region, and other things can affect whether problems will or will not occur.

What I find even more interesting is how do those who omit drip edge expect to deal with the transition from fascia to the underside of the roof. This is rarely a dead straight clean transition. The drip simply crisps up the whole transition.

Ask any gutter installer what they have to say about overhangs and drip edge and I would wager the vast majority will tell you they have far more trouble with gutters on a roof with no drip edge than one with it. It simply gets water off the fascia which is just what you want.

I am with Matt on this one, unless you have a personal relationship with the roofer, if they are trying to cut the drip edge I would be wary of what else they are willing to cut along the way.

Mark

Reply to
M&S

Drip edge protects the edge of the sheathing/top of the fascia board as well as helping to keep water from running under the edge of the shingles. Ice & Water shield helps with the latter, but not with the former ... unless he is wrapping the shield around the sheathing and stapling it to the fascia!

Matt

Reply to
Matt Whiting

I was of the opinion that in different areas of the country, they do things differently. I have seen roofers put shingles on plywood, with no felt, nor drip edge. I think it was the Carolinas or Virginia. It was 15 or 20 yeas ago. I always thought Felt, and Drip edge would have been mandatory. Not to mention valley metal too, even with a weave.

Reply to
Bill

The cost of drip edge can't be more than $1/linear foot installed. What's the big deal?

There are plenty of good reasons to use it and none (that I can think of) to omit it.

Reply to
John Reddy

The level of practice and quality varies from region to region, but what is correct remains the same.

Matt

Reply to
Matt Whiting

Used to be $1 / foot. Have you priced metal lately?

5 years ago a stick was 2, maybe 3 dollars. Now it is more like $10. Guess it costs allot of freight to get it here from China.
Reply to
Bill

The standard 10' drip edge at Home Depot is $3.89 today.

Reply to
DT

Got mine from a roofing supply house. It was over $8 per stick. (3X3) The stuff HD has is not the same as I get.

Reply to
Bill

Don't you think that silver plated is a little extreme?

Just basing that on the price of course.

Reply to
Glenn

Just 50 year stuff. What is HD rated at?

Reply to
Bill

Here here, tin foil at best. Buying material at Home Crapo and Howes and then commenting on components of a quality roof install and the omition of drip edge requires a good look in the mirror. A little over the top, but using home center drip edge is a modest step at best above not using it at all. It is the thinnest material, thinnest finish, and shortest profile that could be considered worth installing in the first place.

Mark

Reply to
M&S

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