I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house in Northern
Virginia, and I have gotten conflicting advice regarding installation of
The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.
Both of these roofers have highest ratings in a local consumer ratings
service (Washington Checkbook).
Any advice would be appreciated.
I second Matt's recommendation. The previous owner of my house did not
install drip edge and now I have water blowing back against the edge of
the sheathing. So, I'm going to figure out a way to retroactively install
the drip edge.
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
If you take a look during the rain at a drip edge installed, you will quickly
see how much rain it sheds that would have contacted the wood and seeped in.
Put them under the builder's paper (or adhesive membrane) along the eaves
(where the gutter is), and over the paper along the gable edges.
Drip edges perform a necessary function. All the information about
drip edge installation is right on the wrapper of _every_ bundle of
shingles, and it makes me wonder what other manufacturer's
instructions the first roofer doesn't think he needs to follow.
I had a similar situation with an excellent roofer. He said the drip
edge wasn't necessary and he never installed it. I told him I
required it even if he didn't, so he put it in. Don't throw out the
first roofer for this one little item.
BTW, if the underlying roof structure is irregular the shingles won't
lay right with or without the drip edge.
I've seen it done both ways. Without a drip edge the roofers tend to start
the first shingle overhanging a bit more. That starts to curl over time,
giving a sloppy appearance, esp. if no gutters. On the other hand, I've seen
galvanized speed-rusting ant the break of a drip. Not pretty.
Well, here's an option. I'm in the process of having some roofs redone
and my roofer told me the same thing - no need for the drip edge. He
said he's using ice and water shield that hangs over the edge so that
the drip edge would be extraneous.
Interestingly, in researching this, I saw conflicting information. One
article said install drip edge before the ice/water shield, the other
said, absolutely, it has to be installed after. hmm...
It does seem that logically one should use a drip edge. Wish we had
this discussion a week ago!
The fact is that, just as Rico said, drip edge performs a neccesary
function. I would say many more than a single function. We have all seen
homes with no drip edge and no problems but we have more often seen them
with no drip edge and the subsequent, predictable, problems. Many things
can affect the balance, the amount of shingle overhang, type of
underlayment, pitch, climate region, and other things can affect whether
problems will or will not occur.
What I find even more interesting is how do those who omit drip edge
expect to deal with the transition from fascia to the underside of the
roof. This is rarely a dead straight clean transition. The drip simply
crisps up the whole transition.
Ask any gutter installer what they have to say about overhangs and drip
edge and I would wager the vast majority will tell you they have far
more trouble with gutters on a roof with no drip edge than one with it.
It simply gets water off the fascia which is just what you want.
I am with Matt on this one, unless you have a personal relationship with
the roofer, if they are trying to cut the drip edge I would be wary of
what else they are willing to cut along the way.
Drip edge protects the edge of the sheathing/top of the fascia board as
well as helping to keep water from running under the edge of the
shingles. Ice & Water shield helps with the latter, but not with the
former ... unless he is wrapping the shield around the sheathing and
stapling it to the fascia!
I'm in the process of getting reroofing estimates. The two companies I'm
interested in are approximately $800 apart in their bids: the more
expensive one includes drip edge on eaves and gable ends as well as
"valley iron," and the other company does not. Both companies have good
reputations in town.
Reading this entire thread has convinced me that drip edge is a good idea,
but is $800 for it (plus valley iron) excessive? (The footprint for the
house is 2400 sq. ft.)Perhaps I should just ask the cheaper company to add
the drip edge plus valley iron for an additional cost?
Any advice would be appreciated.
> responding to
> Malcolm wrote:
> I'm in the process of getting reroofing estimates. The two companies I'm
> interested in are approximately $800 apart in their bids: the more
> expensive one includes drip edge on eaves and gable ends as well as
> "valley iron," and the other company does not. Both companies have good
> reputations in town.
> Reading this entire thread has convinced me that drip edge is a good
> but is $800 for it (plus valley iron) excessive? (The footprint for the
> house is 2400 sq. ft.)Perhaps I should just ask the cheaper company
> the drip edge plus valley iron for an additional cost?
> Any advice would be appreciated.
Uh, separate the "valley iron" (what is that?) from the drip edge. Now
see where the expenses are. I don't think drip edge is what is $800, it
more likely is the valley treatment.
The drip edge is a great idea, but the valley flashing may not be as
necessary since most roofers will weave a valley.
Since I cannot see the roof, I am not sure what type of valley we are
speaking about and some valleys require metal flashing.
I just finished my roof and used 16 square of roofing, and the flashing cost
was 880.00 I of course had 6 skylights, and edge flashing in the mix.
I like the edge flashing that goes out about 1 1/4" and returns back with a
drop over the facia of about 1". On the lower eaves I do the pitch bend and
on the facia running up the rake it is straight out and back.
I researched this, and the flashing helps keep the water from coming in at
the edges and keeps the plywood dry.
In a bid like this, I would consider the more "educated" bid that uses edge
metal since the contractor is looking at details. I would also ask he he
can "weave" the valleys.
just my 2 cents.
Oh, in some cases we do use copper flashing also....Which raises the price
I also like to paint the galvanized flashing before installation.
"Malcolm" wrote in message
Drip edge's are not required by code (IRC), but the code does require that
asphalt shingles be installed per manufacturers instructions. All asphalt
shingle manufacturer's belong to and follow the guidelines of the Asphalt
Shingle Manufactures Association (ARMA); and in their "Residential Asphalt
Roofing Manual" they state that "the use of a drip edge is strongly
recommended". Hence, the first roofer is correct, it IS NOT actually
required, but, have drip edges installed even if it costs more.
The proper method is usually described on the shingle wrapper, but if not,
its installed directly to the deck along the eaves, and over the
underlayment on the rakes. Also carefully review the underlayment quoted. On
my last reroof I had them use the self-adhering type over the complete roof
and feel it's well worth the slight extra cost. (Even when the shingles lift
water will not get to the deck.)
I was of the opinion that in different areas of the country, they do things
I have seen roofers put shingles on plywood, with no felt, nor drip edge.
I think it was the Carolinas or Virginia. It was 15 or 20 yeas ago.
I always thought Felt, and Drip edge would have been mandatory. Not to
mention valley metal too, even with a weave.
please reply to bargerw NO @ SPAM bellsouth.net and remove the NOSPAM
"GB" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
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