I'm putting up new 2 1/2 inch wide door casing on a 36"x80 interior door
The door frame is not always even with the sheetrock all the way around..
In some places the sheetrock may stick out, about 1/16 to 1/8 inch
beyond the frame ..which causes the casing to not sit flush with either
the frame or the sheetrock itself..
How do you recommend to fix this..Do you score the sheetrock between
the width of the casing and push it in towards the wall so the casing
will lay flat ? or something else ?..
I don't have any specialized tools like a router or such..Just hand tools..
A few delicate swats with a hammer on the high spots will usually
suffice. Be careful to stay where the hammer tracks will cover
up!! I'm teasing about delicate - mash the face of the rock to
mush the guts - try NOT to tear the paper. I assume you really
have door casing which is hollowed out on the back side to help
deal with this exact issue.
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
I try using a drywall rasp or like the guy said earlier mash it with a
hammer. just try to stay within the area. after that if you hold your
nails to just the jamb (which I recommend for tight miters and cleaner
look) you can caulk between the wall and trim b4 painting.
Unless the frame is a extremely tight fit, should be that much of problem.
The door casing should be shimmed within the door framing when the casing is
That said, using a T-square, or chalkline, mark the sheetrock 1/4" back.
Cut the paper. Then, beat the exposed sheetrock on the edge with a hammer
until it hits the paper again. Clean it up with sharp knife.
If you mean the sheetrock sticks out away from the wall, that's a different
problem. Please clarify if so.
First, I'm assuming the door is installed plumb, and the wall is simply
out of plumb? Or maybe the door frame is simply narrower than the wall
I had a couple of doors (out of about 11) that protruded beyond the wall
surface. In my case, I used a router to rabbet the back edge of the trim
so it fit flush against the door frame and the wall. I stopped the
rabbets at each end so they don't show on the ends. You can't tell by
looking at the trim that the door and wall don't line up.
If you're installing the door yourself, this is probably a good excuse to
buy a new tool. That's usually the best time to justify the expense. You
have a job to do, and there's a reason to buy the tool. It's usually not
as easy to buy a tool, and then hope you have a project to use it for
later. I've done that once or twice, and those tools tend to sit unused.
The ones I bought when I needed them are the ones that get used most.
On the other hand, you could always rent a tool if you don't think you'll
use it again.
In any case, another option would be to scribe the trim so it matches the
contours of the wall exactly. You could then use a small block plane (or
a belt sander, or maybe even a hand chisel) to shave away the unwanted
wood. If done correctly, the trim would fit the door frame and wall
exactly. Your comment "is not always even" makes me think the gap varies,
in which case scribing is probably the only option that is going to be
Thanks for all the responses..
I ended up simply mashing the drywall; by first scoring the area I
wanted to mash with a utility knife, then being careful not to
mash outside of the area that the moulding will cover..
The trim now sits even with both the wall and the door frame..
Appreciate all the help..
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