DIY Jackhammers

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Bobcat, huh. I'll investigate. Sure sounds easier on all body parts. All three of us are 65... but in decent shape. Nonetheless... sittin sounds a hellova lot better than bouncin' up and down.
wrote:

Consider renting a bobcat, ive seen whole walkways done with only a bobcat and a dumpster, no sore back or broken fingers or toes and it goes quick. If you have never done it its a hard, tough job. In my city the city pays 50-98% , contact them first. I had a corner lot of 120 ft done for $220
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jaygreg wrote:

Another approach is to drive wedges into the score lines of the sidewalk segments with a sledge as an alternative to sawing and the machine and blade rental costs. To test your capacity and the efficacy of this would be easy and allow you a comparitive procedure to weigh against contending possibilities.
Frankly, an accomplished sledgehammer man could do the breaking job in a day if rental expenditures were a concern.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
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Was discussing this very subject with the owner Saturday, Ed. I think you might be right. We're going to inspect the area Wednesday. I plan to bring a sledge for this very purpose. Thanks.

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If you can get a bar under the slab, and even an inch or so, you'll be able to break the sidewalk into managable chunks assuming there's no reinforcement...if there is...get a torch or large bolt cutter.
BTW...if you jackhammer...don't grab on like you're a 300 superman even if you are...it'll win. Light and firm on the handles will go along way to ease the pain.
Best of luck!
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jaygreg wrote:

JG:
If you are going to drive steel, instead of having someone take the risk of holding the wedge directly, get one of those big, concave-jaw vice grips, clamp it around the wedge, add duct tape from the grips to the wedge and duct tape the assembly to a long stick that puts the holder out of the range of sledge error. The duct tape may require refreshing from time to time. You don't have to clamp the devil out of the grips as the hammer would likely soon knock the wedge free. You just need to be able to contain the wedge for accurate placement, a goal which the tapered form of the wedge will enable.
I would start the wedge at the slab border, reposition it at the center junction of slab scores and then work back if necessary. Once you see a crack, it can be extended by pounding a bit ahead of the evident break.
Get a piece of inner tube and wrap it on the handle just below the sledge head, affixing that "bumper" with an automobile hose clamp to protect your sledge handle against misses. Four things determine sledge efficacy. The operator, the weight of the head, the length of the handle and the speed of the throw. Tool availability and fatigue will plug into your result.
A long bar and a hard, broad fulcrum will help displacing and moving your fragmented slabs.
Another amusing possibility, though I have my doubts, is the use of an expansive product like esmite (e-smite?) or bristar, both of which require drilled holes which themselves are a retarding step. I'm not advocating this over what I know will work and cost less but you might find a little research illuminating.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
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Update! I don't get to play with the sidewalk; my friend contracted it out 'cause someone made him a deal he couldn't refuse. About 30 yard of walk completely removed from the lot... six hundred bucks. A gentleman with a miniexcavator and dump truck gave him a price that left only a few hundred difference from the equipment rentals when all was said and done. He's happy... I'm disappointed. I got some good pointers from you guys. I'll have a chance to use 'em before I kick the bucket. I really apprecaite all the tips.

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