If the old lines crossed the footing, no big deal. If they ran
the same way as the footing, you need to worry about compaction
and dig down to undisturbed soil. An 8 inch pipe you can cut with
a knife sounds huge for gray water, sounds more like an area
drain. Deal with it after you stabilize the area.
My plans, and please correct me if I am wrong, is the following;
1) I will get approval from the city that my footer and stone etc
is good. I assume they are mostly concerned with depth, width,
and straightness of the footer and the stone is 4 inch or better.
What stone? Yes, they will be looking for frost depth. Footing
inspection here would expect the steel in location, tied,
supported, proper distance from dirt, correct laps, and corner
bars. They really don't care if it is straight or over wide -
those are things you need.
2) I will rebar the footer
See above. Code here demands 2 #5 continuous, lapped 32 bar
diameters where necessary, corner bars tied in.
3) I will bring in the concrete and pour the footer to the bottom
of the stone. (stone started 4 inches below earth grade)
The inspector may demand that reinforcing steel tie the slab to
the footing, I would J bolts should extend into the reinforced
footing zone. I guess you are talking about a gravel sub base
under the slab. You will want finish floor well above the
surrounding grade. Code wants 6" of fall in the first 10 feet
away from the building as a minimum. So do you. You've not said
what the garage was to be made of other than planning on a wood
sill plate. Brick/siding/wood frame It would be best to have
sheathing and/or siding to lap below the slab edge to seal the
weather away. You will need at least 6" of concrete exposed below
the siding for termites and rot, and then the six inches of fall.
Many guys plan to form and pour the footing and slab at the same
time. It is also fine to pour a footing and then form a stem wall
or slab on top of the footing. The forms need to extend at least
to the top of the slab, or extend a stem wall above the floor
level to help with grade issues. It can be difficult to edge form
at the outside of the footing as you cannot drive stakes, thus why
many guys pour monolithic.
4) I will then place my forms (2X8s) and make sure everything is
of correct size and square up the forms.
If the 2x8 is an edge form, it is marginal at best, though this is
subject to footing height. How are you planning to hold and brace
the 2x8's? I hope you have batter boards up for the footing
excavation already, they should be set to line and grade.
5) I will place my 6X6 10 Gauge wire mesh to the footer
Remesh should be set on blocks before the pour. It has little or
no value at the footing. It does nothing to strengthen the
concrete, it is there to reduce crack separation. I would prefer
not using it were it mine. Spend the time/money/effort on well
compacted subgrade. If you parking tractors or buses, increase
the depth of concrete and consider rebar reinforcement. You've
not ever indicated what depth of concrete you intend.
6) I will then have the concrete brought in and will pour and
level out with a Bull float/screeds/maybe even a power trowel.
It is just a semantics problem. You set screeds to be able to
"rod" the concrete. Once you have rodded the concrete to grade,
you use a bull float to flatten, bring cream to the top, and fill
and densify small holes. This is too much concrete for one man
with limited experience. Make sure the bleed water comes off
before you begin any type of finishing. Knee boards, hand float,
and 2 trips with a hard trowel or power float and power trowel.
If you have not ever used one, find someone who has.
7) I will then place the garage bolts for the sill board
Set all J bolts in templates nailed to the forms. Do your
go-zintas before the pour. They need to go into pretty wet
concrete, you might as well get em set beforehand.
8) Spray on curing agent
Are you casting recessed pockets for the overhead door(s). Level
floor rather than pitched to drain or door? Are you casting a
brick or sheathing pocket around the perimeter? If so, make sure
to omit at doors and openings.
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
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