We have installed concrete pavers for walkways and a small patio, but I am considering using pavers for our driveway this summer.
I typically install a 4-6" compacted gravel base, then the 1" sand layer, then install the pavers on top, sweep in sand, and compact again.
Are there any additional steps I need to take for a paver driveway?
Will I have any problems if a heavy vehicle (UPS truck for instance) drives on the pavers?
Thanks,
Anthony
HerHusband wrote on 08 Feb 2008 in group alt.building.construction:
The exact subbase you need depends on your local soil, and I mean local as in on your lot. If you have soggy clay, you'll need different than dry sand.
Check with the manufacturer. They have a vested interest in making sure their product performs well, so they'll be happy to provide you with recommendations.
Do you have a friend in construction? Offer to take him to dinner in exchange for answering questions.
I use 1/4" minus instead of gravel. Its crush granite mix with particles no larger than 1/4". When its compacted it will interlock given a stable base and hard as rock. Compact the 1/4" minus but not the 1" sand.
Slope for water runoff and a good edging. My problem with pavers is that over time, weeds will grow between the cracks. You may want to seal it to have that wet look.
The interlocking paver is much harder than normal concrete mix plus it has a little give due to the sand below so it won't crack like a concrete driveway. Anyway, its much easier redoing a little section of the pavers than replacing a cracked concrete driveway. Heavy vehicles shouldn't be a problem. Our local Home Depot has the pavers as part of the store front with truck traffic much heaver than UPS trucks. If you worry about heavy traffic, go 12" base instead of 6". The paver manufacture should have installation details for various situations.
Unfortunately, the parking area in front of our garage is kind of in a hole. There's no where for the water to drain, but down. I'm planning to install a driveway drain to carry away the water, and figured it would be a good time to install pavers too.
I normally use a heavy-duty plastic eding with spikes, but will probably pour a concrete curb on the sides that aren't already bordered with sidewalks or foundations.
Yes, but they provide some drainage, are easy to make repairs when necessary, and just look nicer than a poured concrete slab. They're also a project I can do working alone or with my wife. Pouring concrete is a lot more work. Been there, done that.
Thanks for the info.
Anthony
This site is great for this kind of info. See the huge index...
Wife and I are in the process of pouring 15 yards of concrete, side and backyard, by hand with an electric mixer - a little section at a time. We have two mixers but one is all I could keep up with. We've done about over
30 yards before that way on various properties.As for doing the driveways with interlocking pavers, it was all hard labor, perhaps more than pouring concrete. Digging down 10" of hard soil by hand was much more work than I anticipated. Should have rented out a Bobcat. Tamping by hand will surly gives a good workout as well - I now have a plate vibrator. And in my area, hauling dirt to the dumps cost $60 per yard - ridiculous. The pros do about 200 concrete to every one brick driveway. When they add color and stamp the concrete, it is just beautiful - most of the drive pours in my area are done that way now. I'm not good enough, or fast enough, to do stamping as I'm still at the mercy of weather conditions when finishing concrete.
Anyway, not until I could do stamping with confidences, looks like my next driveway project is pavers too. Good luck to you.
We always use a concrete company that mixes on site. No problems with small batches, no waste, and they can accomodate extra if you need it. Sure beats mixing by hand, or trying to haul home bags of concrete.
The problem with concrete is you can't take a break. Once you start you have to keep going till it's done. With pavers I can lay them down and go take a break if I need to.
It's also fairly easy to correct mistakes with pavers. Concrete is literally cast in stone. :) I've done the jackhammer and repour thing before, and try to avoid that.
Yep, but I don't have the skills, tools, or manpower to pull that off.
Yep, been there. It all looks so simple till you start digging. :)
I'm renting a bobcat again this summer to do another landscaping project, so it would be a good time to prep for the pavers too.
I usually rent the plate compactors, maybe $50 for the day.
Thanks for the feedback,
Anthony
We have installed concrete pavers for walkways and a small patio, but I am considering using pavers for our driveway this summer.
(OP) I typically install a 4-6" compacted gravel base, then the 1" sand layer, then install the pavers on top, sweep in sand, and compact again.
Are there any additional steps I need to take for a paver driveway?
Will I have any problems if a heavy vehicle (UPS truck for instance) drives on the pavers?
Thanks,
Anthony
------------------------------------------------------------- I think your plan is sound and the other posters had good points. I'd emphasize the tamping. Get the sucker solid before driving on it, even a car can put a lot of pressure down. I'd also make sure you have a good edging, can't let them pavers move lattterally. LT
See the index on this great site for the correct methods...
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