Concrete guy with issue has an Asphalt question from you experts

Since I have hopefully resolved the concrete pad issue I was wondering just how long I could expect a 3-4" asphalt drive to stay intact before cracking here in cold Minnesota. I asked the company who did the work because all the way across a 18' wide part it has cracked. I don't want to stir the pot some more with them because the concrete was far worse and more of a visual annoyance because it was so bad.
I had other drives that never cracked at all. They told me because of our really cold Winter this year it happened. We have had other COLD Winters. I just thought I would ask those in the biz if this is normal after only 5 months.
It's as thick as it is because they brought too much out and had to put it somewhere.
I am so fed up with this crap I am on the verge of just calling an Attorney because of all the issues. A handshake and verbal promise to fix things used to be all you needed. Now it's a little bit iffy.
Roscoe aka Rick
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Roscoe P Pendoscoe wrote: ...

All depends on what they did about the sub-base -- it's ground heave from frost and moisture that causes problems. Adequate drainage and prep and it should last--skimp anywhere on that part and problems are inevitable.
--
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I would expect "cold joints" similiar to concrete if there is an issue to expansion and contractoin. Instead of cracking, the joint is where the movement takes place. What do I know. It "helps" with concrete. Asphalt may be different. The subgrade prep is most important also. I always tell my customers when I pour a concrete slab........ I will guarantee 2 things.......... The concrete will crack...... I do not know where...... All we can do is minimize, and guess with joints(tooled), expansion joints, etc. jloomis

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thank-you JLoomis! We have finished concrete for over twenty years,my husband and i, always the question, will you garauntee it won't crack. always the answer....nope, gaaruntee it will!! as for asphalt, as was said, adequate sub-grade prep is the key. didn't you say that the contractor had driven on the concrete slab? did they drive on the asphalt too, which you can as opposed to concrete, but i believe 24 hrs is the time frame, depending on the weather. did they compact the sub-grade? have you searched on-line for answers anywhere else? and i have never seen a control joint in asphalt, different type of material, different application. think of all the parking lots youv'e seen. rose, and yes, i am a female finisher!! http://www.apoc.com/faq_results.aspx?id=2 check this site for some info, please. and good luck!! with the contractors i mean.
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(snipped)
Yes, they had prepped the area and compacted it. I had to leave at that point.
You guys who do concrete are telling the truth about concrete (will crack) I know that but I was somewhat curious about a crack across the entire asphalt drive in so short a period.
Rose, we used an adjacent driveway and I believe we did not drive on the asphalt for a week if I recall. When I got back home that day they did the asphalt portion, they were parked doing nuttin' on the new concrete with the rollers. 1 large 1 smaller. Probably should have been packing/rolling it but you know how it goes when the job supe leaves.
There are lots of visually different looking areas, some smooth, some with open, crevice like spots.
Thanks for the info.
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For starters, bituminous concrete is a flexible pavement (as opposed to portland cement concrete), minor flaws in subbase preparation may cause a depression, no cracks.
You mentioned different textures, a couple of likely causes for this are, 1. material from the plant differed, i.e., sloppy batching, 2. Material was allowed to cool too much before placement and initial rolling. A crack across the entire width suggests that it may have been a stop/start location with less than ideal joint preparation or finishing. If the whole thing was done in one day there is no need to tack coat the joints, but temperature is critical. Asphalt can be shoveled or raked long after the temp. drops too much ( about 275F most mixes should leave the plant at about 325F) to achieve acceptable compaction and finish.
Tom
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wrote:

Sorry for late thanks for the information but consider it greatly appreciated.
Rick
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