Attaching drywall to cement block through 2 inch foam insulation

Hello:
I have a cement block basement that is insulated with 2" foam glued in place.
To meet the building code, I must cover the foam with drywall.
What methods, other than furring and expensive 'Tapcon' screws, may be used to attach the drywall?
Thanks for any suggestions.
Rob.
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Robert.Thompson wrote:

Liquid nails. just like the foam.
s
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Vapour barrier first or is the insulation or dry wall foil covered?
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On Apr 1, 1:53 pm, "Cwatters"

The foam is taped and is the type that may be used below grade (there is 2" of it under the cement floor as well) and is its own vapour barrier.
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wrote:

Shoot down or tapcon some 2-1/2" metal track (at least 1/2" off the foam) and stud it out with metal and then drywall.
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Shoot down or tapcon some 2-1/2" metal track (at least 1/2" off the foam) and stud it out with metal and then drywall.
Nail a 2X4 plate to the floor joists (ceiling) and plumb down to the floor..Snap a chaulk line... Shoot a pressure treated 2X4 plate to the floor on the line with a Ramset... Frame 2X4 wall 16 inches on center with 2x4's Add wiring and outlets if desired.. Hang and tape drywall... Paint and enjoy....
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On Apr 1, 11:32 am, "Robert.Thompson"

I think I'd try to cut clots inthe foam and add furring strips. Any solution involving glue is probably just asking for trouble down the road.
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

putting walls up in a basement is asking for trouble down the road. No pain, no gain. always something.
s
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He has to cover the foam to meet code in the event of fire.
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Could he take the foam down, build a stud wall, do the electrical, and insulate between the studs like a regular stud wall, either foam or fiberglass, then cover with sheet rock, tape, float, prime and paint???
wrote:

He has to cover the foam to meet code in the event of fire.
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Sticking the XPS to the wall and then framing it out (with either metal or wood with a least 1/2" gap) is commonly done and an accepted method. No need to remove what's applied. If anything I would add more foam into the stud bays, not fiberglass.
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Craig M wrote:

Yep.
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Fiberglass bats without the foam (that's already in place) will more than likely become saturated, at some point in time, and cause a mold problem. BTW, everything you'll ever need to know about this topic can be found at the building science website.
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Ok, try this, take the foam off, coat the wall with Dri-lock or sometype of water proofer, frame the wall, do the wiring and what ever else between the studs needs to be done, foam, then fiberglass, if you realy want some R value, use 2x6 plates and studs., or used a spray foam, it will seal the stud bays and is waterproof, so I have heard.
wrote:

Fiberglass bats without the foam (that's already in place) will more than likely become saturated, at some point in time, and cause a mold problem. BTW, everything you'll ever need to know about this topic can be found at the building science website.
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Why take the foam off? No need to remove the foam that is already there, and if it's adhered to the block it'll more than likely be destroyed trying to remove it.
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snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net wrote:

What happens if the house catches fire? From what I have heard, this foam gives off toxic fumes in fires.
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That is correct, hence the original post, covering it with drywall.
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