I wondered why the instructions on every washer I've seen is to fill the washer
with water, THEN add the dirty laundry.
So, I called Whirlpool. They told me that the only way to get the correct
amount of water in the machine is to fill it first.
If you put the clothes in first, then they take up space that should be taken
up by water.
I then asked them if after the wash cycle finishes and the dirty water drains,
and it goes through a spin cycle, should I then remove all the clothes, allow
the machine to fill with the correct amount of rinse water, and then add the
clothes for rinsing.
They told me that no one had ever asked this question before.
They had no answer.
On Mon 03 Jan 2005 10:00:55a, TOM KAN PA tittered and giggled, and giggled
and tittered, and finally blurted out...
Probably because once the clothes have been wet in the wash cycle and spun to
eliminate the water, they are (1) still somewhat wet, and (2) considerably
compressed compared to their dry state, thus allowing more water into the
Just my WAG
It's the other way around with mine. Put the washing in, then the water goes
in after, the amount of water depends on the type of load and absorbency of
articles being washed. Rinsing is done until the water runs clear so I
choose what type of rinse, how many rinses depending on how dirty or soapy
the water is.
On Mon 03 Jan 2005 01:15:22p, Sweep tittered and giggled, and giggled and
tittered, and finally blurted out...
Curious... How does the washer determine when the water runs clear? Also,
how does it determine the number of rinses?
Or, are you saying that you determine that and run various cycles
On 03 Jan 2005 17:00:55 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org (TOM KAN PA) wrote:
It makes no sense to wait for the washer to fill. If so, you would
have to deal with the water displacement, plus you lose soaking time.
I fill my washer 1 or 2", add soap, stir to dissolve the soap, then
add clothes as the washer continues to fill. Putting soap directly
onto clothing may damage some fabrics. I would think adding soap
after the washer begins to agitate is another good option. Also,
adding bleach to laundry should only be done when the clothes are
thoroughly wet and in motion.
I'd like to know what modern washer has instructions to fill the tub
before adding clothes. My sister bought a Whirlpool toploader under the
Kenmore label about ten years ago. The book said to add the clothes
before the water.
The book said this was the way to measure a load of clothes. The book
explained that it's best to wash as big a load as possible while leaving
the items room to move freely in the water. It said if you put in as
many clothes as the basket would hold dry without pushing any down, that
was a full load.
It's not as easy to measure a full load if you add the water first.
Besides, the laundry will change the water level by an amount that will
depend on the kind of fabrics. Meanwhile, you have to wait for the tub
That washer had a dispenser in which hot water would dissolve soap
powder at the proper time.
Considering that the water level in a washing machine is controlled by
a water level switch and associated level setting control if
Whether you put the clothes in first or last would not affect the
water level to any appreciable amount.
Putting the clothes in first would mean the water shuts off at the
predetermined water level.
Putting them in last, would not normally exceed the high water
Some of these water level sensors work by pressure in a closed column,
which means your water level after filling could vary considerably
depending upon the barametric pressure at the time the unit was
filling and closed off the sensor column so it could make its
By the same token, some work totally on a fill time factor.
If your line pressure is 30 psi instead of the nominal 60 psi you may
end up having to use higher water level settings to get the right
amount of water in the drum.
<< If your line pressure is 30 psi instead of the nominal 60 psi you may end up
having to use higher water level settings to get the right
amount of water in the drum. >>
Gary, what is the reccomended water line pressure? I'm running around 80 psi.
My neighbor says this is a bit high, he'd set the regulator to about 60.
I believe when the township changed the meter, they checked and set the
email@example.com (TOM KAN PA) verbositized:
Most solenoid valves and other fill valves are designed for a 60psi
nominal water pressure!
You will find older cities that still have lead pipe service lines
often keep their mainline water pressure down around 30psi, so you
don't see many regulators in use. Whereas almost all service areas
since the 1940's have fairly high water pressure, between 80 and 120
psi in the mains, so the homes serviced by these higher pressure lines
normally have regulators to cut the pressure back to 60psi.
In the 25+ years I was in construction, every home I worked in had a
pressure regulator installed, set at 60psi, except for one single
outdoor faucet, whichever was closest to the driveway, which bypassed
the regulator so whatever supply pressure was available, was available
at this one single faucet. Very few homes had more than one of the
outdoor faucets bypassing the regulator.
Running your regulator over the nominal 60psi setting can cause
premature failure of solenoid valves, such as in washing machines, ice
makers, water dispensers, etc. and can cause your fill valve in the
water closet to fail prematurely also or even prevent it from shutting
completely off. Washerless faucets (cartridge faucets) will wear out
much quicker also. Some low end single handle faucets won't even shut
off at all if the psi is much over the nominal 60psi it was designed
What washing machine fills the tub strictly by timing? There's a vast
difference in flow depending on pipe size, pipe material, pressure at
the mains, and other household water demands.
Restrictive tubing is used that allows for a plus or minus 20%
variance in line pressure.
Water pressure IS like horsepower to a certain extent. The higher the
pressure, the greater amount of water that will pass through a
However, using a LONG tube as the restrictor (instead of plate) brings
line resistance into the equasion. Which helps balance the water flow
more accurately against fluctuating line pressures.
Take your refrigerator ice maker as an example. It's fill is
determined ONLY by a time factor. In older cities where line pressure
is only 30psi, the ice maker timer needs to be increased in order for
the tray to fill to the proper level, else you get very tiny ice
Using pressure sensors in washing machines to determine the fill level
is a fairly new advancement in their design. Early washing machines
used only the timer and overflows to control the water level.
These pressure sensors are not very accurate either!
Depending upon the barometric pressure at the time you are filling
your washing machine, the water level can vary considerably. As well
as your location above sea level.
Take two identical washing machines and send one to Denver and one to
Miami and you will have a 2 inch water level difference in the tub at
the same barometric pressure reading.
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