Some good info on the detailing of straw bale construction.
There's more to it than you may think.
Straw bales have a higher R-value than other common natural building
Do you want to build your home out of natural materials? If so, you
can build your walls with adobe, cob, cordwood, rammed earth, or
wattle-and-daub. Although all of these walls have a long history,
their thermal performance is poor. If you want a well-insulated wall,
one natural material is the clear winner: straw bales.
A 23-inch-thick straw-bale wall has an R-value of about R-33.
Moreover, since virtually all straw-bale walls are plastered on both
sides, these walls are relatively airtight.
If you are an owner/builder with lots of time on your hands, and you
want to build your walls out of natural materials, straw-bale
construction makes a lot of sense.
The first straw-bale houses were built in Nebraska in the late 19th
century. (I'm proud of this Nebraska connection. Both of my maternal
great-grandparents settled in Enders, Nebraska, in the 19th century,
while my paternal grandmother grew up in a sod house in South Dakota.)
According to Bruce King, the author of Design of Straw Bale Buildings,
the oldest standing straw-bale building in the world is the 108-year-
old Burke house in Alliance, Nebraska.
Many people confuse straw and hay. Hay is dried grass — the same stuff
that your lawnmower spits out. Hay is used to feed cattle, horses, and
other farm animals. Straw, on the other hand, consists of the dried
stems of grain plants — for example, wheat, oats, barley, rye, or
rice. Since hay is more vulnerable to rot and mold than straw, hay
bales should not be used for wall construction.
Straw is often sold for use as stable bedding. However, in areas of
the country where the supply of straw exceeds the market demand, straw
is sometimes burned. The price of straw varies widely by region; in
areas of the country where grain is commonly grown, a bale of straw is
cheaper than a bale of hay. Elsewhere, however, straw often costs much
more than hay.
Straw bales come in two sizes: a two-string bale measures about 15 in.
x 18 in. x 36 in., while a three-string bale measures about 16 in. x
23 in. x 46 in. Either size can be used for wall construction. When
used to build a wall, straw bales are usually stacked flat (not on
edge), so a wall made from two-string bales will be about 18 in.
thick, while a wall made from three-string bales will be about 23 in.
thick. Of course, the thicker the wall, the higher the R-value.
All types of straw — including wheat straw, barley straw, oat straw,
rye straw, and rice straw — are suitable for wall building. If it’s
available locally, rice straw is often preferred, since it is said to
be more resistant to decay than other types of straw.
Every straw-bale wall needs to be plastered on both sides. The plaster
serves many functions: it is a structural element that increases the
wall’s load-bearing capacity; it improves a wall’s fire resistance; it
helps keep the straw bales dry; and it keeps out rodents. A wide
variety of plasters are used on straw-bale homes, including lime-based
plasters, cement-based plasters, and clay-based plasters.
Straw-bale walls are strong and durable. According to Bruce King,
“Load-bearing straw-bale walls in Pensacola, Florida, easily survived
a powerful hurricane — before they had been plastered. In short, the
empirical evidence to date tells us that straw-bale walls of
conventional dimensions are not appreciably affected by high winds.”’
Walls must be kept dry
The biggest enemy of a straw-bale wall (or, for that matter, of a wood-
framed wall) is moisture. It’s vitally important to keep liquid water
out of a straw-bale wall. To accomplish this goal:
Straw bales must be dry when purchased.
Straw bales must be kept dry during construction.
The foundation must be raised above the surrounding grade.
The first course of straw bales must sit higher than the floor.
The roof must have generous overhangs on all sides.
Decks and patios must be designed to minimize splashback.
Windows and doors must be properly detailed and flashed to prevent
Homeowners must avoid using sprinklers near exterior walls.
Hard experience has taught straw-bale builders the importance of
impeccable moisture detailing. Building scientist John Straube told me
one story of a straw-bale failure: “Years ago, I investigated an
Arizona project with a moisture problem. It was a straw-bale house
with a low-slope roof and no overhangs. There was a parapet with a
rounded top and vigas — projecting beams that penetrate the walls.
Water entered the wall at the top of the parapet, accumulated, and ran
down the wall and found the vigas, where it leaked in. Most of one
wall had to be rebuilt because of moldy straw bales.”
Like Straube, straw-bale expert Andrew Morrison emphasizes the
importance of good detailing to prevent water damage. “Many builders
can tell you horror stories about broken pipes and blown washing-
machine hoses,” Morrison wrote. “Imagine the repairs if the leak
flooded into a wall made of straw bales. The bales could wick all of
the water right off the floor and up into the walls. It is possible
that the walls would not be able to sufficiently dry out and would
therefore be ruined and need replacing. That is a catastrophic repair
and it is exactly why we do not place water pipes in the bale walls
and why the bales never sit directly on the ground.”
To understand what can happen to a straw-bale wall without adequate
detailing to prevent water entry, it’s worth checking out photos of a
failed free-standing straw-bale wall in Tucson, Arizona — a city with
a relatively dry climate.
Of course, water entry can do as much damage to a wood-framed wall as
a straw-bale wall. Straube told me, “I’ve seen more regular houses
rotting that straw-bale houses rotting. Of course, that’s because
there are more regular houses. The thing that has kept straw-bale
homes out of the ditches is that most straw-bale practitioners pay
close attention to these moisture issues. You can manage these
moisture risks with experience and prudence. Straw-bale builders are
much better than the average yahoo builder who throws up a stick-built
Compared to bulk water entry, other forms of moisture transport rarely
cause problems in straw-bale walls. Of course, an air leakage path
through a straw bale wall could lead to condensation, so standard
attention to air-sealing details is important. However, vapor
diffusion is very unlikely to cause any problems.
Load-bearing or infill?
There are two basic types of straw-bale buildings: buildings with load-
bearing straw-bale walls (also known as “Nebraska-style” buildings),
and post-and-beam buildings with straw-bale infill.
Before choosing to build a Nebraska-style building, you need to
overcome two hurdles:
Verify that your local building official will approve a Nebraska-style
straw-bale building; and
Develop a plan to keep all of your straw bales dry during
“Keeping the bales dry during construction may not be a problem in
Arizona,” says Straube. “In Vermont, it is.” If you have no code
barriers and you live in a dry climate, a Nebraska-style building may
make sense. Most such buildings are limited to one story.
Compressing the wall
Before you can plaster a Nebraska-style building, you have to consider
the problem of bale settlement. After a straw-bale wall is built, the
weight of the upper bales causes the wall to settle. If you wait a
couple of months, you’ll find that the wall has settled by 1/2 inch to
If your construction schedule doesn’t allow you to wait a few months
before plastering your walls, you can “pre-compress” your walls. There
are several wall-compression techniques:
According to Bruce King, “Builders have found … that [settling is]
drastically reduced if bales are emphatically stomped into place both
downward and against adjacent bales.”
The bucket of a front-end loader can be used to compress the wall.
The wall can be cinched down with polyester packing straps or fencing
wire that passes through a curved plastic conduit that is positioned
in the concrete footing under the wall. The packing straps or wire
pass over the wall top plate, and a ratchet device is used to cinch
Advantages of the post-and-beam approach
Builders in damp climates usually choose to build a post-and-beam
building with straw-bale infill. The main advantage of this approach
is that it is possible to install the roof before the straw bales are
delivered to the job site, greatly simplifying efforts to keep the
If you live in an area of the country where straw-bale homes are still
rare, you may find it easier to get approval from your local building
official for a post-and-beam building than a Nebraska-style building.
More design issues
Once you’ve decided whether you’re building a post-and-beam building
or a Nebraska-style building, the design process can begin. To ensure
good roof overhangs on all four sides, a hip roof makes more sense
than a gable roof. Straw-bale walls should never include a vapor
barrier on either side of the wall.
Because straw-bale walls are quite wide, the easiest foundation option
is the thickened-edge concrete slab on grade. It’s a good idea to
leave rebar pins sticking out at the perimeter of the foundation; you
want to have at least two rebar pins per bale. (Instead of rebar pins,
some builders install projecting spikes in the parallel 2x4s used to
create a “toe-up” under the first course of bales.)
Builders use a variety of techniques to raise the first course of
bales above the level of the slab. According to straw-bale expert Mark
Piepkorn, “In slab-on-grade applications, a [concrete] bale-wide curb
can be poured integrally to raise the bales above floor-level.
Similarly, a ‘toe-up’ between the floor and the first course of bales
is becoming increasingly common. The toe-up is a set of parallel rails
at bale-width, generally wood ..., set with anchor bolts to the slab,
or ram set, or screwed to the decking. The area between these rails
can be filled with anything providing a capillary break, such as
crushed gravel. … Besides lifting the bales off the floor, this
technique provides a convenient nailing strip on the exterior for the
stucco reinforcement and an aluminum drip edge. It’s also been
suggested that the interior rail can be inset from the true edge of
the wall to form a wire chase behind baseboards.”
The second course of bales is offset from the lower course by half a
bale length to create a “running bond” pattern. To cut a bale in half,
each half bale is tied together tightly with baling twine before the
bale's strings are cut. If necessary, a large wooden mallet — a
“persuader” — can be used to nudge bales that are out of plumb back
Bales are often anchored to lower courses with wood stakes (usually
1x2s about 36 in. long), bamboo stakes, or rebar. However, according
to Laura Bartels, a builder and green-building consultant in
Carbondale, Colorado, many straw-bale builders have concluded that
staking bales is unnecessary.
Plywood or lumber window bucks are used to establish window rough
openings. Straw-bale builders should research window-buck methods used
by other builders before designing their own window bucks.
Straube advises builders to keep a fire extinguisher handy. “You need
to beware of fire during construction, since there will probably be a
lot of loose chaff and cut-up straw on the job site,” he says. Once
the walls are plastered, however, the fire risk is minimal.
At the top of the wall, builders of Nebraska-style homes usually
install a wide wooden top plate or a concrete bond beam. The roof is
framed conventionally, using rafters or roof trusses.
Window flashing and plaster
Because liquid water is the enemy of a straw-bale wall, windows should
be installed as “outies,” not “innies.” Window sills must be carefully
detailed. “The fundamental requirement [for window sills] is that
there be an outer layer of cladding, with a drainage gap below and a
waterproof layer below that,” says Straube. “You also need an opening
to let the water out. You can use a Benjamin Obdyke product to create
the drainage gap, or in a dry climate, you can use two layers of
building paper. You also need some type of flashing with a drip edge
and an exit slot for the water.”
Once the walls are up (and, if necessary, compressed), it’s time to
plaster. While some straw-bale builders apply plaster directly to the
straw bales, Straube recommends attaching chicken wire or wire lath to
the bales before plastering. “I want metal mesh in the plaster, even
if it’s only light chicken-wire, for a bunch of reasons,” says
Straube. “The main purpose of the mesh to keep the crack sizes small.”
Chicken wire is attached to the bales using U-shaped pins poked into
the bales or wires that go all the way through the bales; this is done
with the help of a tool called a “bale needle.”
Laura Bartels advises against the use of chicken wire. “We usually
avoid the use of metal meshes unless required structurally,” says
Bartels. “Chicken wire or stronger is required in high seismic areas,
but other than those cases, you will mostly find that plaster prep
involves reinforcing at corners, material transitions and over framing
or other materials.”
Traditional plastering techniques require three coats of plaster: a
scratch coat, a brown coat, and a finish coat. The total thickness of
the plaster is usually between 1 in. and 1 1/2 in.
If you don’t want a stucco exterior, you can install any type of
siding you want. However, it’s essential that the exterior side of the
straw-bale wall be plastered, even if you later install furring strips
and wood or fiber-cement siding.
“It’s very easy to put furring strips on,” says Straube. “One way is
to install a scratch coat of plaster, then install your furring strips
screwed to the stucco, and then install another coat of plaster
between the furring strips. A better way to do it is to install two
coats of plaster and then install the furring strips, shimming as
needed, with Tapcon screws. The plaster will hold the Tapcons.”
Mark Piepkorn likes the idea of a rainscreen gap on straw-bale walls.
“The general consensus of experienced and knowledgeable straw-bale
builders indicates that external cladding [over a rainscreen gap] will
perform better than stucco alone in nearly all circumstances, if
properly implemented,” Piepkorn writes.
Some builders install 2x4s on the inside surface of straw-bale walls
to facilitate attaching kitchen cabinets; these 2x4s can be through-
bolted with 1/2-in. threaded rod. (You’ll need a large plywood washer
on the exterior of the wall). Another approach (one mentioned by Bruce
King) is to attach cabinets to wooden stakes that are pounded into the
straw before plastering.
Wiring and plumbing
Any wiring embedded in a straw-bale wall is best installed in conduit.
“Conduit can be let into grooves carved by chainsaw or ‘weed whacker’
into the straw surface,” King advises.
It’s best to avoid any plumbing pipes in a straw-bale wall; in a
pinch, it’s always possible to build a chase or a faux framed wall for
A full survey of the status of straw-bale building codes is beyond the
scope of this article. Code requirements change all the time, so it’s
best to research the current situation in your local jurisdiction.
The first straw-bale code in the U.S. was adopted by Tucson, Arizona,
and Pima County, Arizona, in 1996. California followed Pima County's
lead a few months later with statewide guidelines for straw-bale
In 1996, New Mexico adopted a straw-bale standard that (unlike the
Arizona code or California guidelines) does not permit load-bearing
“Nebraska-style” walls. The New Mexico code requires straw-bale
buildings to include a post-and-beam frame.
Several cities with active green-building communities adopted straw-
bale codes in the late 1990s; among them were Austin, Texas (1997) and
Boulder, Colorado (1998).
This introductory article is an attempt at an overview of straw-bale
It should not be considered a guide to construction, so if you are
planning to build your first straw-bale house, be sure to research the
topic thoroughly, using some of the many available books, Web sites,
or instructional courses.
Does a straw-bale house make sense for you?
If you are an owner/builder with plenty of time and access to
inexpensive straw, a straw-bale home can be an affordable method of
However, straw-bale construction is relatively time-consuming;
installing metal lath and plastering goes slowly. If you are hiring a
contractor, you can expect a straw-bale house to cost more than a